Plastic Classic Forum

Clearly a commercial vessel, but this sure is a candidate!



Please DELETE if considered too off-color for these outstanding forums ...

And apologies in advance if considered to be in poor taste.

FWIW Pettit Trinidad SR (slime remover) always rated as BEST hard epoxy paint in .... errr, (forgive me) Powerboat Reports testing. I prefer ablatives and use West Marine's CPP+. We even use it as a multi-season paint, even though not labeled as such. Each Fall the hulls (7 between my brothers and I...

A great synopsis ... "Despite the complexity of the issue, boats with galvanically compatible underwater metals usually will not be affected (unless the problem is extreme), while the ones with lesser compatible metals, the ones that become anodic, suffer the consequences." ... from this s...

I need something which can be emersed in water for 8-10 hours at a time, several days in a row, as I am planning some multi-day trips. Does anyone know how 2-part or single part will hold up to this kind of use? Per System 3's data for their WR-LPU, "Polyurethane paints, while giving excellent...

Since you say you're going to remove it anyway, I would have just filled it with epoxy ... maybe thickened with kitty hair.

FWIW between my brothers and I we're running 11 OBs this season in salt water. For those motors too big to be tilted all the way out of the water (twin V6s on OB brackets) we paint the lower unit with Trilux 33. For best results we paint up to 1" higher above the typical waterline, to keep the ...

Get the largest 'elephant eared sized' low pitch prop you can. You want a PUSHER prop on any kicker, otherwise you'll be lugging the motor.

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/155700_lg.gif You could buy this self-centering drill jig from Northern Tool for $19 and cut off a 1-2" length as needed for this job. Then I'd tap drill the jig itself for the bit size you need, maybe even throw in a bushing, and would then st...

... and I'd say I am getting a comparable service life out of the water-based LPU. Just note that while S3's 2-part LPU is water reducible, it is NOT by any stretch of the imagination a 'water based' paint as many and most would think of a true water-based paint. It is only reducible when wet, but ...

On many boats it is fairly common to plumb bilge pumps to drain to the self-draining cockpit. Reasoning that dirty water in the cockpit is far preferable to the risks of back-siphoning. Back-siphoning is why a "riser loop" should always be put in, well above the bilge pump outlet.

Amp Draw: I know Garmin and Raymarine 4kw radars draw 34 watts during transmit and 10 or less on stand-by. To get amps, one divides wattage by voltage, assuming 12.6 VDC as nominal. So the amp draw would be 3-amps in transmit and < 1-amp in stand-by. Note your power lead may be configured with a la...

I would like to avoid a seam where the two come together and possibly show the primer below. You won't get a seam where the primer is involved, as I believe the primer is indeed a prerequisite with any LPU whether or not using any non-skid additive. As far as any seam between paint and non-skid ......

FYI ... sorry, forgot to add this! COSTS: $314 shipped for gallon kit of epoxy primer, gallon of Whitbey White (beige color) LPU paint, quart of Orcas White LPU paint, and container of non-skid. Add for 1" and 2" wide tape, plus disposable brushes, rollers, and pans. Maybe $350 or less for...

INTRODUCTION: FWIW I’ve been ‘lurking’ here for years, but never posted. Plus … err, I’m a stink-potter (due to my tuna fishing habit) but please know I am a boater with more brains than horsepower ;) ! As a maritime history buff, I do consider sailors as THE true mariners! I started a similar webs...