Plastic Classic Forum

Capn_Tom

In the communication I have had with "non marine" hinge manufacturers the hinges have been brass plated steel or the pin/ spring has been steel. This would of course be a problem on a boat. The fun part is the amount of effort it takes find someone knowledgeable enough to get the informati...

Capn_Tom

Last Spring I began to try to source good solid brass hinges for all of my interior locker doors. I decided on ABI's self closing offset hinge. When I tried to order I learned that they were out of production but that they were seeking a new manufacturer. I was told it would be about 90 days. I chec...

Capn_Tom

I've been using the iron and pva glue method to reveneer existing bulkheads and also to veneer new work in my boat. I have used both Titebond II and a product called Heat Lok. It is definitely easier to work with than contact cement particularly when applying veneer to panels that are already in pla...

Capn_Tom

If your 32 has the full liner, it turns up at the forward end of the locker in the v-berth just aft of the chain locker bulkhead. If you put a padeye low in the locker you can thru bolt with a backing plate in the locker below the berth. Plywood+fiberglass pan+backing plate = strong.

Capn_Tom

With the use of the feather boards as Tim suggested and properly supporting the work piece on both sides of the table there shouldn't be any problem dadoing a piece that long. Assuming of course you have 25 feet of work space.

Capn_Tom

Of course using the head in the forward cabin in heavy seas will be an adventure also. Might want to consider a seat belt.

Capn_Tom

The problem with glassing the joint on a westsail is the hull is only about 3/8 thick at the top which doesn't give enough bonding area. You could of course wrap the edge and bond to the outside of the hull but that is an unpleasant prospect with more grinding and fairing than I am interested in. On...

Capn_Tom

I've got the same project lined up for this summer. I've been toying with the idea of using butyl caulk to fill the joint. I'ts a tricky question since removing the caprail is such a big job. I don't want to make the wrong choice. When rebedding the caprail definitely stick with polysulphide. Someda...

Capn_Tom

The polysulphide should work just fine. If the teak is stable you can use thickened epoxy colored with graphite filler instead. The one thing to be careful of with polysulphide is the nature of the wood finish you use. Petroleum distillates will soften the polysulphide. Varnish shouldn't be an issue...

Capn_Tom

There is an old brass galley pump on ebay right now that is beautiful. The spigot design doesn't seem practical though. http://cgi.ebay.com/ANTIQUE-BRASS-WOOD- ... dZViewItem

Capn_Tom

I've found Te-Ka 2 part teak cleaner to be excellent at removing soaked in oil from teak.

Capn_Tom

Tom, am I following you? Where have we gone? (read huh?)

Nanette,

I'm the same Tom you emailed from the Westsail site regarding my foredeck propane box.

Capn_Tom

You should always use Vigor's de-naming ceremony simply because it is fun and involves the use of acohol. In comparison the naming ceremony is quite boring.

Capn_Tom

Nanette quit following me! Just kidding nice to have the company of another westsailor

Capn_Tom

Interlux's website has the spray instructions. DEFINITELY requires positive air respirator.

Capn_Tom

If you have any Te Ka laying around it works well for restoring the color of mahogany as well

Capn_Tom

Search cabinet supply or by brand name such as wilsonart

Capn_Tom

Interlux Perfection is what I used. The roller question is tricky. Everyone seems to have a different favorite. The foam "hot dog" rollers work well for me but I kow Tim prefers mohair.

Capn_Tom

I was varnishing some locker doors in the shop yesterday and thought to myself how lucky I am that I can artfully leave bits of dust and the occasional run or sag that differentiates a classic plastic from a new production boat. Don't worry Tim, with practice you can get there.

Capn_Tom

I don't think you would see any better finish longevity out of the 2003 than with paint. It is basically just a 2 part epoxy paint.

Capn_Tom

Good Lord I think I logged into the wrong bulletin board.

Capn_Tom

You sold me. I just bought a 1/4x12x14 piece of MR10 on ebay for $12.00. That'll be enough for my 4 deadlights assuming I don't break it while cutting.

Capn_Tom

Thanks for all the good information. I noticed that Mcmaster lists abrasion resistant polcarbonate. I think I'll give that a try.

Capn_Tom

I am preparing to replace the old glass in my deadlights with lexan. The existing glass is 1/4" thick and 5 3/8 in diameter. There is aprox. 1/64 of free space arounf the glass. I know that the lexan needs room to expand. Is there a rule of thumb or rule of law on how much expansion room is req...

Capn_Tom

I used one when setting the concrete forms for the pad my boat sits on. IMHO the tube is too small making air bubble an issue. But then I was working at ground level.

Capn_Tom

Maybe not custom but these folks do offer a bit of variety http://www.ronco-plastics.net/

Capn_Tom

I like the phrase "needs finishing work". Obviously a master of the understatement.

Capn_Tom

I have the same project planned for the spring and also planned to use ipe. Mine is replacing an existing teak caprail that is in bad shape. Unfortunately I don't own a band saw. Any thoughts on the best method for making the radius cuts and the scarfs without one? I have about every other tool know...

Capn_Tom

I don't recall seeing a hook and loop pad for the 7335. I would think the speed of roattion might be a bit high for hook and loop. If there is one it will have a threded post in the center that screws into the arbor of the sander.

Capn_Tom

Go ahead and get the removal done now and you'll be ready to fly come March!

Capn_Tom

Back to your primer question Rachel. You could use interprotect as a primer which would accomplish all you were looking for. I don't know that it is worth the cost and effort though.

Capn_Tom

On the household versions the strap that holds the outlet in the j box will corrode. I assume the marine versions take this into account.

Capn_Tom

Is that astro turf I'm looking at?

Capn_Tom

How bout some belaying pins?

Capn_Tom

The red would be lovely.

Capn_Tom

I have the old style arbor and all my blades have the "star" shaped cutout. The arbor grips well and the blades don't slip. I would think the star shaped cutout would add a bit of flex which would allow the arbor to grip more tightly.

Capn_Tom

If you are using Iterdeck it doesn't require a primer If you need the primer for fairing purposes Interlux doesn't have a true high build primer but you could use Interprotect due to it's quick overcoat time. Epoxy primekote their 2 part primer is n't much thicker than 2 part poly but it does sand w...

Capn_Tom

I have a longboard I bought from Jamestown with the spring clamps that hold the paper. I've found the length of the precut sheets as well as the vinyl backing material on the longboard to be too short so there is very little under the clamps. As a result the paper slips loose frequently. Next time I...

Capn_Tom

I was planning to mix in white if I found the beige to be too dark but when it actually came out looking pink I figured adding white would just give me a paler pink. From your pictures that doesn't appear to be the case. I guess I need to spend 2 more hours of taping for 20 minutes of painting.

Capn_Tom

Is there some tick to smug mug? For some reason I get nothing.

Capn_Tom

I used perfection and it is really quite simple All you need is the perfect mix, perfect temperature, perfect cloud cover, and perfect wind conditions. That is after all why they call it perfection. I'm kidding actually these factors affect all two part paints. I just need to match my free time to t...

Capn_Tom

And it smells like your coloring easter eggs!

Capn_Tom

Any good advice on cleaning two part epoxy and polyurethane paint from brushes. I always end up with a residue that does not rinse away and ruins the brush. At $20+ for a decent brush this is more than frustrating.

Capn_Tom

What make / model hatch did you use on Kaholee? I looked through the whole diary but could not find this information. But prone to missing things that are right in front of me. Probably actetone fumes

Capn_Tom

For some reason the phrase "usd for x years in Europe" always makes me nervous. Seems like they are trying to hard to impress us rube colonists.

Capn_Tom

I am completing the prep work in preperation for painting my cabintop. I am using Perfection cream on the smooth areas and interdek beige on the molded non skid. I realize that interdek does not require a primer but I am considering priming the whole surface with epoxy primekote to fill any gelcoat ...

Capn_Tom

Could you provide a picture of the hatch?

Capn_Tom

The weather turned stormy today so it seemed to be a good day to work on the sander. I wanted to open it up as much as poosible to clean it out good but I'm not having much luck. Any tips on removing the front housing? It appears to be a snap fit but I can't come up with the right pry, twist, pull c...

Capn_Tom

I hve a porter cable 7335 which I've used extensively over the past couple of years. Today I noticed it became very hot to the touch within ten minutes of use. Any thoughts?

Capn_Tom

Given the fact the many boats will sometimes sit below their waterline I would always extend the barrier coat to the top of the stripe. Unless the stripe is deeply scored or you are striking a new line you will have to barrier coat the stripe either before or after the bottom. allow for a small over...

Plastic Classic Forum

Search found 194 matches

Brass Hinges

Lexan

Brush Cleaning

Forward Hatch

Priming before interdek

Overheating Sander