Plastic Classic Forum

mitiempo

True, as current goes up so does voltage drop. Size wires for maximum amperage. Starting and other main battery cables - 2/0. Panel feed - most Blue Seas panels are rated at 100 amps max so size for that based on distance and 3% drop. The closer the batteries are the better - if only to save the cos...

mitiempo

I agree - wire sized properly will make up for any length issues. Size your wire for both panel feed and alt output for 3% max voltage drop. And don't forget if it is 12' one way you have to allow for the return so it is really 24'. Here's a link to the best wire size calc I have ever used, and I us...

mitiempo

On larger boats there is usually (or should be) a doubler at the gooseneck, also on vang attachment points on both the mast and boom. On smaller boats my thought is that the extrusion is a bit over the strength and wall thickness to start with.

mitiempo

Trying to figure out how to wire this panel shown above. There is a shunt on the back. it is prewired to both rows of breakers on one side. The other side had a piece of green wire going to it. Doesn't mean much considering the mess of wire that attached it to the boat. If my research is right the ...

mitiempo

As far as I can tell without being there the stud you are pointing to with the pencil should be the positive feed with the upper end of the shunt leading to the feed side of the breakers as it does now. Are you not getting any voltage through the shunt? As far as the AC neutral jumper, where does it...

mitiempo

If it is domestic it will be fir throughout. After a bit of research I would pass. It is heavier for one. And this MSDS is an interesting read.
http://www.freemansupply.com/MSDS/scann ... lywood.pdf
Scroll down to hazards.

mitiempo

Rachel

You could be right - it doesn't state whether both sides are coated or not. http://www.canply.org/english/products/ ... lywood.htm

mitiempo

Tabbed and epoxy edge sealed as you are planning longevity should not be a problem. The only issue I can see with MDO in your use is the quality of the other side of the panel really. It will of course have voids unlike marine ply but that shouldn't be an issue for your intended use.

mitiempo

The MDO sounds good and it will take a good paint finish. Okoume or meranti marine ply will take a good finish as well but the MDO is probably a bit less likely to dent if something hits it. Whatever you do I recommend against any fir plywood (excepting MDO) as it is very hard to get a smooth paint ...

mitiempo

Looks good. Be sure to have the tank pressure tested before you put it in - many leaks will not show up without pressure.

mitiempo

That makes sense.

mitiempo

That sounds like a good plan. I misunderstood when you described the sponge and luan.

mitiempo

If the paint is ablative why did it build up enough for soda blasting to be necessary? It should slowly dissolve.

mitiempo

Why don't you glass both inside and outside? It would be a stronger repair.

mitiempo

That could be it - but I do know it should never be hardener rich for any project.

mitiempo

I made my chainplate risers by epoxying 2 layers of fiberglass together and then shaping to size and cutting the slot. I never throw away any fiberglass cutouts when I install something - on my boat or anybody else's. I remember a reference from the Gougeons about being better to use less hardener t...

mitiempo

I think he means to blend the stringer into the bulkhead and not end it either abruptly or before the bulkhead. Oil canning is most common on flat panels, found more on lighter modern boats. As long as the panel has some curve to it strength is increased by a large amount and it is less likely to ha...

mitiempo

Here's the Sailnet link to 4 pages of discussion about an oil canning hull. http://www.sailnet.com/forums/boat-revi ... 423-a.html

mitiempo

Carl Longitudinals is the term you are looking for I think. My thought is that for one, the Bristol is a pretty strong boat with no major issues in structure of the hull that I know of. For another, fiberglass does flex, and that is part of its ultimate strength in a situation where something is hit...

mitiempo

bristol27 I don't think for the most part it is necessary. If you add stringers at all I would concentrate on the forward cabin area, both under the V-berth and the hull sides above the berth maybe as well. I can't see the advantage of stringers aft where the hull will never contact something. The h...

mitiempo

If you have Dremel with the router attachment it could be used. I would go slowly, increasing the depth a bit at a time. A Dremel is small and easy to control freehand. I think it would be easier than using a grinder as in Rachel's link. Also, not only did he use stainless fasteners, they were screw...

mitiempo

With a 50:1 mix there isn't much epoxy. With that weak a mix there will be a lot of solvent evaporation, which as I posted above in the attachment, can cause voids. I don't believe in thinning epoxy at all. I have never had a problem with epoxy not working as designed in over 20 years of using West ...

mitiempo

The best way to thin epoxy is by warming the work surface before application. From West's manual:

mitiempo

Ok Rachel - I'll work with it. <g>

mitiempo

Tallystick When the Triton (and almost any other boat) was designed the tanks were always low down. Of course. they are only effective as ballast when full. You can't count on that all the time so as ballast they are not always useful. If you add too much weight topside you could always shorten the ...

mitiempo

To give you an idea of an un-cored deck and its issues a neighbor has a Spencer 35 built in 1964 with un-cored decks. If you aren't sure what type of boat that is it is the same model the late Hal Roth sailed - Whisper and very similar to an Alberg 35. Actually Whisper was 2 boats away from my neigh...

mitiempo

Mat has no strength worth mentioning by itself. Its main use is to fill voids between layers of roving when laying up a hull in the traditional way. Biaxial 1708, as mentioned by Rachel, would be a much better choice. Also, if using polyester instead of epoxy, re-using the top skins is not a wonderf...

mitiempo

Weight in the wrong places adds up. 200 lbs extra in a deck that is 2 1/2" above the waterline = a vertical moment of 500 ft/lbs. To maintain the same vertical center of gravity (righting ability) 500 lbs is needed 1' below the waterline or 250 lbs 2' below the waterline. Stability is important...

mitiempo

Tallystick 3/16" skins with 1/2" balsa in the middle is a great deal stiffer than 3/8" solid glass as you are in effect creating a "I" beam. Weight in the core is not necessary and in the wrong place on a boat's deck. To replace balsa with polyester and fossilized algae is a...

mitiempo

With the most experienced epoxy formulator, West, stating that epoxy should not be thinned I think 50:1 is a bit excessive. Unless you are dealing with end grain the penetration is limited by the wood's structure no matter how thinned it is. Here is what West has to say about it http://www.westsyste...

mitiempo

I wonder the most about the 50:1 part. That is really thinner and essence of epoxy isn't it?

mitiempo

Somewhere on West System's site - I think in their Wood Boatbuilding Manual they discuss the penetration difference of thinned vs non-thinned epoxy. There is very little if any difference with a normal boatbuilding wood. Balsa wasn't tested.<g> I would coat with straight epoxy, finish with a good va...

mitiempo

Tallystick

I understand now. But that makes for a heavy core - not to mention a lot of polyester. The purpose of the core in a deck is only to separate the skins, not to impart any strength of its own except to keep those skins apart.

mitiempo

I think plywood is the worst core material to use - heavy and if water gets in the plies let it travel a long ways. I also wonder whether epoxy will stick well to treated ply. The best core material is end grain balsa. Along with Rachel I wonder about the polyester and diatomite "core" tal...

mitiempo

Rachel

I see the whole "Ship Faced" post.

mitiempo

I saw a boat this past week in the local Navy marina (our tax dollars at work - they pay something like $1/ft) that was home built, a bit oddly designed and named "Hoof Hearted".

If you don't find it funny, say it faster.

mitiempo

Some have inter-changeable blades. I have the Dremel Multi-Max and its blades fit the Bosch v ersion. As well I have a Ridgid cordless from Home Depot that will also take the Dremel blades.

mitiempo

I wouldn't think a winch is essential on a main of that size.

mitiempo

I'd route a 1/4" groove in each piece and use 1/4" ply, cut so the outside faces are perpendicular to the join and use epoxy. The trickier part is making the join invisible.

mitiempo

Looking great!

mitiempo

The anti fouling may have been the problem. A prop shouldn't be painted except with the specific coatings designed for propellers.

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/sh ... ing%20prop

mitiempo

I don't believe there is any ethanol in kerosene.

mitiempo

On an outboard powered boat the ground bus connects to battery negative. Nothing else is required or desired.

mitiempo

A solid prop should ring and one that has lost the zinc in the bronze due to electrolysis will have a dull thud or clank sound. Manganese bronze can contain up to 39% zinc and is commonly used for propellers.

mitiempo

It can be done and ABYC allows fiberglass fuel tanks. But I wouldn't do it.

I will be building a holding tank with epoxy and glass over plywood.

mitiempo

Not only are gel and agm batteries expensive but they often do not last as long as good flooded 6 volts. Agm batteries really need a full upgrade of the alternator and regulator as well.

I prefer solar over a Honda gen - quieter.

mitiempo

I would pick the batteries best suited and modify the box or build a new one to fit. Or look at other locations where they may fit with short wire runs ideally. My boat came with 2 group 24 batteries, one of which died and the other is close to death. I am not replacing them until I head off cruisin...

mitiempo

I agree, the group 24's don't hold a candle to 6 volts in series/parallel. I have installed 6 volt batteries, Trojan and off branded ones, in many boats - in groups of 2, 4, 6, and even 8 batteries without any charge issues. There is not a better bang for the buck. Do you have a battery monitor? Tha...

mitiempo

Are you planning on using it as a start battery? Or a house battery?

It is not a true deep cycle. And a pretty small battery. Good for starting though.

True deep cycle batteries seldom if ever give CCA specs.

mitiempo

My main point is that the manual switch for a bilge pump should be momentary so the pump cannot be left on. Whether it is a Rule switch or a switch like I showed there should not be a way to leave a pump on indefinitely in manual mode. Has a lot more to do with safety than what the boat wants.

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