Plastic Classic Forum

catamount

It's certainly well-decorated and accessorized!

catamount

GREYHAWK's Refit - Continued May 2008 Update In the last major update (January 2008), I reported on installing most of the deck hardware, but even at that writing there was still a lot of hardware to put back on. None of it is particularly photogenic, though. Holding Tank and Head Plumbing I had le...

catamount

I did some re-coring working for the inside, working over head, on one of my projects, as documented here: http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Quasar/ I found that spring poles or clamps weren't necessary for holding the new coring in place -- as long as the epoxy was thick enough the stuff would stay up...

catamount

Figment wrote:Coming up for air anytime soon?

I should have some new pics and maybe some stories to tell in another week or so! (stay tuned...)

catamount

Stainless - rotate the bit as slow as you can possibly go, but apply a lot of pressure and keep on cutting (don't let the bit spin on the metal, you'll end up hardening it). Lubricate a lot. Cobalt bits may be better than HSS bits. When everything is right, it cuts like butter, which is truly amazin...

catamount

IOr is it better to run a triplex cable to the masthead light and duplex wire to the anchor light? That is what I would do. Next, what do you recommend I use to pass the wires through the cabin roof? I'll have to disconnect the wires each time I take down the mast. I'm interested in the answer to t...

catamount

They further state: In any case, fuses, circuit breakers, and switches should not be installed in battery compartments because of the risk of corrosion coupled with the potential presence of explosive gasses. Interestingly, Blue Seas sells terminal post fuses intended for mounting directly to the b...

catamount

What's the tennis ball for?

catamount

Update on the list posted back in October, now with only a month to go before launch: Rebed Hatches DONE countersink holes in anchor platform DONE Rebedding of all deck Hardware DONE (nearly) Replace Ports DONE drill hole connecting stemfitting and anchor platform DONE (nearly) drill hole connecting...

catamount

Just a quick note to celebrate the fact that I got the engine running again this evening, after it sat idle since August 2006 and having re-done the fuel system and engine electrical (as well as the prop shaft, stuffing box, cutless bearing, etc...). A critical moment with launch only about a month ...

catamount

Figment wrote:yes a freeze-out plug is a sacrificial element intended to relieve the presure of frozen water in the block before it causes other costly damage. All engines have them as far as I know, raw or fresh. I'm raw.

Huh? All engines? I'll have to look and see if mine has one! (Yanmar 2QM15G)

Tim A.

catamount

Orange bottoms are fastest, especially orange keels. Everyone knows that, right?

catamount

You will note that I have not been posting updates on project progress... ;)

catamount

GREYHAWK is scheduled to go back in the water exactly 8 weeks from today ..... ready or not!!!!

(just one of those "time to panic" moments ;)

catamount

CharlieJ wrote:

Now I've got to go think up some place on my boat where I just have to have some curved fiberglass tubes like those, they look so neat.

catamount

I would try Team McLube SailKote

http://www.mclube.com/frames/sailkote/

available from most chandleries and marine supply houses

catamount

Looks like the official NOR with details has just recently been posted --
http://www.stoningtontoboothbayharbor.com/race__nor

32' LOA or greater, so Tritons are definitely out. Sorry!

catamount

Tim wrote:For rule 3.09.4, I calculate 2% LWL (20.5') to be 0.41". Even in my overloaded and heavy Triton, the cockpit sole is probably 3X this above DWL, so on lighter boats it'd be even better. No problem there.

Tim, that should be 0.41 feet not inches; 20.5' = 246 inches, 2% of that is 4.92 inches.

catamount

The race will be a US Sailing sanctioned Category 2 event,....... Does a properly equipped Triton meet the requirements? Main issue would likely be the cockpit? I don't have a Triton, anyone want to measure theirs and see? 3.09.4 A cockpit sole shall be at least 2% LWL above LWL 3.09.7 Cockpit Volu...

catamount

Is this a crew call???

catamount

bcooke wrote:Maybe it is best to just postpone for another year...

That's what I did last year (with good reason), but I'm committed to splashing the boat this year.

For me, it looks like 12 weekends left...? Yikes!

catamount

Zach, In general, bilge pumps should have their own outlet, and not be plumbed into the cockpit drains.

catamount

I'm not Kristian, but why do you need your lifelines to be flexible? I'm using 1x19 and it seems fine to me.

catamount

GREYHAWK's Refit - Continued January 2008 Update In the last full update (October 2007), I had just completed painting the decks (primer, "skid," and non-skid paints). Since then, I've been installing deck hardware (including overhauling of much of that hardware). In mid-November, I showe...

catamount

I have a Henderson Mark V bilgepump mounted so that it can be pumped from the cockpit without opening any hatches: http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyhawk/2008-01/CockpitBilgePump.jpg I believe the rubber bellows makes the installation water tight, but I haven't tested it. I also have a Whale Gusher...

catamount

Things are coming along... Yesterday, Sailing Anarchist redboat came over to help me re-install some of the toerails. I'll try to get some photos of the progress tomorrow (MLK day).

catamount

I'm leaning towards coated lifelines as I prefer the look and feel of them. Even if I need to replace them every five years to be prudent, I still think that's the way I'm going to go. Keep in mind that for racing the Special Regulations may soon forbid coated wire lifelines. Also, does anyone have...

catamount

If you go with wire, go with plain UNcoated 1x19 rigging wire.

If you're leaning against them, put some of these on:

image from http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/4,11662.htm

catamount

OK, launch date scheduled for Friday May 30, so that's 19 weekends left...

catamount

Pheww, I've still got at least 19 weekends before my launch date, which has yet to be scheduled but will hopefully be sometime between Memorial Day and the middle of June. You gave me a start there, for a moment, Mike.... The following items can now (more or less) be crossed off my list: drill set s...

catamount

Jasper Windvane wrote:What is your opinion of the SS hand grab rails for cabin top use.

Me likey....

catamount

Triton 185 wrote: A new mast with running rigging runs about $9 grand plus another 2-3 g's for shipping. Does that sound right? Hmmmm....at this point I'm thinking "good used" is the way to go.

For your 9 to 12 grand, you could buy a whole 'nother boat and throw it all away except for the mast...

catamount

These items are DONE: Rebed Hatches countersink holes in anchor platform Replace Ports drill hole connecting stemfitting and anchor platform drill hole connecting chainplate and anchor platform backing plates for cleats and other hardware Rebuild Primary Sheet Winches 55s (two) Rebuild Secondary She...

catamount

Don't forget that the angle of the backstay vs. the angle of the forestay is likely different, so you will probably have less tension in the backstay than the in the forestay. Regarding the question of toggles, what I've always heard is that any stay that carries a sail should have toggles top and b...

catamount

And just to beat Tim or Nathan to the punch - this is NOT what I'm talking about! http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x70/seaglass414/coachroofstrip-eyebrows.jpg Ha! Reminds me of this character: http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Newfoundland2003/TheodoreToo.jpg (well, not his normally sunny expression...

catamount

He is selling for about 1/2 of what they seem to go for and is unwilling to send the survey he had a few years ago - says it then becomes 'public knowledge' and he won't have it. Simply says, whatever the survey said to do, he did and more. When the person said they were not going to travel across ...

catamount

JetStream wrote: http://www.javelin38.com/rudderrepair.html
I hope it is helpful for someone.

AWESOME! Thanks!

catamount

Just plotting the weight versus time should show an exponentially decreasing curve as the water leaves the rudder. When the curve starts to flatten out less and less water will be leaving the rudder per unit of time, to the point that you will have gotten the rudder as dry as you reasonably can give...

catamount

Only problem I see with starting over is that if your rudder has any foil to it, you will be doing ALOT of difficult fairing to replicate the foil shape. If the existing rudder is in good shape -- except for being waterlogged and structurally suspect -- one could use it as the plug for a mold in wh...

catamount

A wet foam-filled fiberglass rudder shell with stainless steel shaft and skeleton (presumably)....? Why not just start over and build a new rudder from scratch? At least that is what has been suggested to me as probably being easier than taking apart the old rudder to check for hidden corrosion of t...

catamount

It was sleet down here. Didn't last long, and certainly didn't stick around.

catamount

Figment wrote: I can't tell from the pics, do those grabrails have any sort of knurl or texture to them?

No, they're smooth highly polished 316 SS, made by Anchor Hatches in New Brunswick as sold by Hamilton Marine...

catamount

Last month, I mentioned the nifty bends I put in the stainless steel handrails and promised some pictures once they were installed. Here they are: http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyhawk/2007-11/StarboardHandrail.jpg http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyhawk/2007-11/PortHandrail.jpg http://sailing.tho...

catamount

Another approach is to use nested hole-saws, i.e. use a hole saw that matches the diameter of the existing hole to center the bigger hole saw that you are using to cut the recess for your flange.

catamount

I used a hole saw of appropriate diameter for the inside of the flange, drilled into the thull to a depth equal to the depth of the flange, then switched down to the hole saw for the thru-hull portion and finished the hole. Then I took a chisel and spilt out the bit of hull laminate for the flange, ...

catamount

Rebed Hatches countersink holes in anchor platform Rebedding of all deck Hardware Replace Ports drill hole connecting stemfitting and anchor platform drill hole connecting chainplate and anchor platform backing plates for cleats and other hardware fiberglass backing plates for stanchions and handrai...

catamount

Other than Rockland, I don't know offhand of other places offering long-term mooring rentals; most transient moorings are the usual daily-rate type for cruisers. Maybe Boothbay, but I don't know and never looked into it. Tim, my sense is that most of the boatyards up and down the coast offer season...

catamount

Hex-head bolts, or counter-sunk flat-head machine screws? I was catching myself up on the progress on Kaholee and noticed that Tim had used hex-head bolts, where-as I had been anticipating having to mill counter-sinks in my anchor roller assembly so that I could use flat-head machine screws. Don't t...

catamount

http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyhawk/2007-10/KiwiGripTrowellingOut.jpg I was chided in another venue for not wearing a respirator in these pics. KiwiGrip is non-toxic and has no volatile solvents. The MSDS has this to say: "Respiratory Protection: Respirator is not required for normal appli...

catamount

I recall kicking myself for not using a darker paint on my nonskid when the finished deck first saw the light of day, but after a month in the real world it looked much better. The alternative, of course, is to try to get your skid and non-skid colors to match -- exactly -- which seems like it woul...

Plastic Classic Forum

Search found 378 matches

GREYHAWK's Refit - Continued -- May 2008 Update

Re: Rewiring mast for lights

Re: Nerdy electrical circut protection question

8 Weeks to Launch Day

Re: Stainless Steel, Hand Grab Rails .. for the cabin top

Re: PS

Anchor Roller installation...bolts or machine screws?

Re: Deck Painting is Done!!!!!