Plastic Classic Forum

mitiempo

I don't think I would worry about inside water flow for lubrication. Many boats have none and there are no issues. There is one caution though. The zinc, if installed between the cutlass and the prop should allow enough room for water to reach the cutlass easily. I think there should be a space equa...

mitiempo

Paulus The uppers should be on the middle chainplate, the lowers on the chainplates fore and aft. The yard got it wrong. A triatic stay is the one connecting your main masthead to the mizzen masthead. If the mizzen boom is inboard of the transom this often continues down to the transom or a boomkin ...

mitiempo

Yes, parallel to the mast. Your runner connects to the top of the mast? Runners should be connected at the same point as the inner forestay, assuming a staysail will be flown from it. They counteract the forward pull of the staysail and prevent mast pumping is heavier winds. The backstay supports th...

mitiempo

The upper shroud should be vertical or very close to it from the spreader down to the deck. The angle between the spreader and the shroud should be the same above and below. With longer spreaders there is less load on the rig as the upper is pulling more to the side and less straight down.

mitiempo

The reason I asked is that I don't believe Pearson cored hulls in that era. Decks always but not the hulls. The Pearson 30 that succeeded the Wanderer in 1971 wasn't cored.

mitiempo

I would not duplicate the original sloppy job but improve on it. I have yet to see a well made boat that didn't have either plywood "bulkheads" to sole level, fiberglass beams, or wood beams as you are planning to install. This goes for both internal and external ballasted boats. Maybe not...

mitiempo

Or there are these folding mast steps @ $24 each. http://www.maddogoutfitters.com/products/Mast_steps/Mast_steps.htm The company is in Alberta, Canada. I use ascenders and a 4 part tackle I put together, ratchet block at the top. It works well but seemed like less work 10 years ago. The only change ...

mitiempo

The floor timbers should become one with the hull. They add stiffness needed in way of the ballast. I would use thickened epoxy, fillets on each side and maybe glass taped over that. You should have plenty of working time if you are prepared. I would use slow hardener as it gives you more time. Mix ...

mitiempo

Unfortunately you can't tell nearly as much with ammeter and voltmeter. After charging the voltage takes a while to settle the surface charge on the plates. An ammeter will show current amps in or out but has no history. The battery monitor tells you how many amp hours you have used and the charge s...

mitiempo

I don't think I would view regular replacement as just for "go fast" boats, but a reliability issue. Losing steering is bad on any boat. But every 5 years does sound a bit excessive.

If it is original and parts are rusted I would replace it and you would be good for a long time.

mitiempo

I would tolerate more drop on interior lights than on nav lights. Here's the easiest to use calculator I have found for wire sizing. Just fill in the blanks. Distance is to the device and back. http://boatstuff.awardspace.com/awgcalc.html I usually use 14 awg for interior lighting. I have used 16 aw...

mitiempo

If it is truly weak I would add epoxy and cloth layers to strengthen it, but Ericson built a solid boat so I have my doubts. I would keep it as a sump - good place to cool wine or beer.

mitiempo

Bob

I don't think there is a comparable law about Canadian currency.

Never shop at West Marine!

mitiempo

Rachel
I quickly checked that (too quick I guess) and must have hit the wrong number so I didn't think that was what he was trying to show.

mitiempo

Zach
Is that 27" yard the American version? Ours up here is 36".

mitiempo

That should work - throw away the wing nuts though and use hex nuts with lock washers.

mitiempo

Many batteries have 5/16" for negative and 3/8" for positive. But many boats are using the wrong size eyes in the lugs anyway so it is a good idea to check.
I just noticed you are holding it over the negative post. I would fuse the positive.

mitiempo

I have always understood that the mat was used to even things out between layers of woven roving. Stitched biaxial is smoother than woven roving and I don't think it is as necessary here. I have used the biaxial with mat on one side and it is epoxy compatible, as is some mat by itself. Most mat isn'...

mitiempo

Not sure where you are but in any major center there should be a metal supplier, a company that supplies the welding shops and metal fabricators nearby.

mitiempo

I have had a Force 10 3 burner with oven since about 1999. It is a European model as it was purchased for a UK built boat, although my current boat is Canadian Made. Mine pre-dates the thermostat for the oven and the glass oven door now offered but I have not had a problem keeping the oven at the co...

mitiempo

I agree with Rachel, but a headliner like what I posted about is easier to make look good than a fitted foam headliner. Smoothed and painted will be quicker and a less expensive.

mitiempo

Spent uranium works well too - and has been used for ballast!

I don't think gold ever has.

mitiempo

A removable headliner need not use much of the existing headroom. 1" should be maximum. I would epoxy 1/2" x 2" ply strips side to side evenly spaced, probably 18" to 30". One strip fore and aft on the center line possibly as well. The panels can be made of 1/8" ply wit...

mitiempo

It didn't have a bowsprit and I don't think it had a V-drive either.

mitiempo

The clew of a loose footed main should be as strong as the clew of a jib. My next main will be loose footed and full battened.

mitiempo

If you have absolutely no access to a good sheet metal shop there are methods that will work as has been posted. But I would take it to a sheet metal shop and get it done right.

mitiempo

No offense intended.

mitiempo

If you look at any ABYC certified marine panel, such as Blue Seas or Marinetics, you will see no solid core wire. On the Blue Seas panels which I install and work on regularly, both AC and DC, the feed "wire" is a tin plated copper bar about 1/2" wide and 3/32" thick. All wire is...

mitiempo

I am not a fan of the plastic wire blocks either. And I never use solid core on a boat. ABYC also calls for all stranded. In addition to the vibration issue electrons run on the surface of the strand(s) and a little corrosion will increase resistance on solid core before it will on stranded and hope...

mitiempo

I'd find a machine shop with a shear large enough to trim them. Any solution you try will ripple the edge or otherwise mar the stainless I think. If it was aluminum I'd say trim them but not stainless.

mitiempo

Really? And that green interior!

mitiempo

And if you do please post pictures!

Here are a few examples of hard dodgers - the last 2 pics show a Triton that looks ok but not great. The hard hatch dodger on the racing boat looks as modern as the boat does. And 2 that look pretty good.

mitiempo

Ray I too am in favor of hard top or totally hard dodgers as opposed to canvas. If done right they will cost a great deal less than purchasing a soft dodger. This assumes you will build the hard dodger but would purchase a soft dodger. If you are able to fabricate a soft dodger the costs would be mo...

mitiempo

You could use a different lay of stainless for flexibility, say 7 x 19. Or for much better chafe resistance than Dyneema use Dynex Dux which is a lot tougher. With either you should use softies instead of bronze hanks though.

mitiempo

The storm jib hanks will chafe the Dyneema - best to use stainless.

mitiempo

I have had a Force 10 stove for over 10 years. The model I have is 3 burner w/oven and grill. I use the oven regularly and the sides of the stove do not get past warm as the oven is double walled on the sides. The front and back do get hot. My surround is Formica and there are not any heat/discolora...

mitiempo

Doug You're doing a great job. A few comments on the electrical. The battery fusing is not for overload but for short circuit protection. Because of this fuse size isn't critical and can be anywhere from wire capacity to 150% of capacity. Or less. The fuse will not blow at its amperage limit immedia...

mitiempo

There are lots of choices for bulkhead heaters, propane, kerosene, and diesel. The most popular around here are the Dickinson in either propane or diesel like shown below. There was a Force 10 kerosene heater similar to the Taylors but it is discontinued, although there is still an open flame propan...

mitiempo

Here is a simple reliable bulkhead heater from your side of the pond.
http://www.blakes-lavac-taylors.co.uk/taylors_079k.htm This is kerosene (paraffin in the UK), but a diesel version is also available.

mitiempo

I agree with Rachel about the bulkhead heater and keeping systems simple. It seems like you are planning on systems more suitable for a 35' or larger boat on a 25' one. As a matter of fact I have quite a few neighbors with simpler systems on much larger boats than yours. If it isn't there it can't b...

mitiempo

I don't believe your small 1 cylinder diesel (I have the YSE8, older but similar) will effectively heat water without a lot of engine time - after a long motoring session of several hours but not from a short session. Try and find someone with a similar setup and see what the results might be before...

mitiempo

I use Interlux Brightside white inside lockers. Has been durable and easy to clean over the years. Covers well and I have never found the need for a primer on good surfaces.

mitiempo

If your engine is raw water cooled I wouldn't count on it heating water effectively. A fresh water cooled engine runs hotter and will do a much better job. I agree if you have shorepower an electric heater is the way to go. I live aboard and have been warm through out recent below freezing weather w...

mitiempo

Paulus ...more related to the rating than any higher quality of the switch... I would think that higher quality is required for a higher rating. A cheaper low rating switch will eventually arc and either fail in the on or off position. The $7 for the Blue Seas switch is a fair price for a quality sw...

mitiempo

I agree replacing it with plastic is the solution. Nothing on a boat is more corrosive. Sheet stainless survives fairly well but welds become porous after not too long and fittings as you've found.

mitiempo

They will work but I would keep it to 4 amps @ 12 volts. The Blue Seas switches are rated the same amperage at 12 volts DC and 125 volts AC. Pretty low rating but the price is low as well.

mitiempo

Fusing is for the wire size, not necessarily the load. A fuse smaller than the wire size requires is fine, but not larger. The fuse is there so the circuit is opened before the wire gets too hot. Strange the switches do not have a DC rating. And that rating is really low as well. Last week I install...

mitiempo

I favor the Echo Charge over the ACR. It will pass up to 15 amps to the secondary (start) battery when a charging voltage is present. The start battery is rarely down more than an AH from an engine start.

mitiempo

I assume the starter is wired to the common out on the main switch but not shown. I would treat the charging differently. I don't believe that the main switch should be used to determine which batteries are being charged, only which are being used. I would direct charging to the house battery, both ...

mitiempo

Flooded batteries are the best value and I agree the Trojan T105 are a good choice. Not sure where you are but Exide GC2 are comparable to Trojan but should be less expensive if available near you. These are 6 volt so you will need 2 or 4 in a 12 volt bank. Starting can be taken care of with a 12 vo...

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