Plastic Classic Forum

mitiempo

Yes that will work if the distance to the negative bus is a ways away.

mitiempo

Denise
I would connect the chassis ground to the boat's negative bus, which is connected to the ground point on the engine. I am not a fan of complete bonding ( through hulls, etc).

mitiempo

Denise
With 45 amps at 18 ft both ways and 3% voltage drop I make it 6awg.

mitiempo

I'll second what Maine posted. My hull/deck joint is bedded with butyl and the small amount that is exposed inside at the joint is still as flexible as the new roll I have. I just removed my forward hatch that was also bedded with butyl 33 years ago and it was still flexible as well. Also leak free ...

mitiempo

According to sailboat data as well as an old thread on sailnet the Bristol 24 is the only design credited to Paul Coble.

mitiempo

Sorry. If you wire the starter direct to the cranking battery you will be eliminating any way of isolating power to the starter. It should go to the switch. Then when the switch is off it means off. Also that gives you the option of starting from the house bank. I would always start from the house b...

mitiempo

Denise
You want to go direct to one bank or the other from the alternator, not the switch. Which ever battery you choose the ACR will take care of the other. By avoiding the switch you eliminate all possibility of human error.

mitiempo

No reason for a field disconnect on the battery switch as the alternator output goes direct to the house bank.

The alternator isn't a problem. I am not sure if it is internally or externally regulated.

mitiempo

Or use butyl which isn't temp sensitive as it doesn't cure. I am replacing my forward hatch because it is old and falling apart. It was sealed to the deck with butyl 33 years ago, never leaked and was still flexible. As is the butyl in my hull/deck joint.

mitiempo

To build a sole of solid wood, epoxy down strips, either butted or with a gap. The gap can be filled with white or black tinted epoxy. Tim uses black and I prefer solid wood without the gap. As long as the wood is covered well with epoxy (thickened) underneath and between the planks water is not an ...

mitiempo

It is for the first 1/32" anyway!

mitiempo

Sounds like you have a lot of work ahead. Pics please.

mitiempo

If you use solid wood strips in any form, cherry is an attractive wood, harder than teak and about 20% of the price of teak.

mitiempo

Maine The way I read it the ACR was between the start battery and the positive bus for the house bank but the way it is drawn is a bit confusing. Another solution would be an Echocharge instead of the ACR. It is a bit more expensive by itself but the 3 fuses and the heavier cables the ACR uses would...

mitiempo

Yes, for the house bank I would fuse the positive cable to the bus.

For the start battery I would fuse the positive cable to the 1/2/c switch.

I would fuse the ACR separately.

You can remove the battery monitor from the 1/2/c switch as it wouldn't connect there.

mitiempo

Looks better. Fuses for the batteries should be in the positive cable and close to the batteries - within 7". A neat solution is the Blue Seas 5191 which mounts directly on the battery post. Pic below. A shunt measures current flow. For a battery monitor it is in the negative cable, with two se...

mitiempo

Looks good with Maine's recommendations taken into account.

You show a battery monitor wired to the main switch. What is it?

mitiempo

Ray Vapor proof could be considered as waterproof. I would glass the inside of the locker and attach the fitting for the drain as you would on deck to make it waterproof. Also if possible countersink the drain fitting so water doesn't sit in the locker bottom. I wouldn't use silicone but 3M 4200 or ...

mitiempo

Depends where you go. As I posted earlier, Trotac in Victoria has good prices on everything marine including screws and more obscure slow moving items. Fisherman's supply in Seattle has good prices as well. There is a store in San Diego I forgot the name of. There are many others across the US and s...

mitiempo

Or a corroded connection.

mitiempo

Looks awesome! Marinas need boats like yours with lots of varnished trim to contrast with boats like mine with only stainless on deck.

mitiempo

Rachel is right - pickup tubes shouldn't have screens but some do. All fuel tanks have at least a bit of water in them. And the algae lives at the water/fuel interface. And when you put Biofor or similar into the tank it doesn't eliminate the critters, just kills them and they fall to the bottom to ...

mitiempo

Bob, Dwyer is not very close. It is in Connecticut. But back to retail pricing. In Victoria I would never buy from West Marine. I deal with Trotac Marine almost exclusively for "specifically Marine" equipment. A cluttered store with great stock and answers from experienced people. I have k...

mitiempo

I agree with Rachel - work backwards from expected use. But here are recommendations. Golf cart batteries (flooded lead acid) are probably the most cost effective way to go. If you have room for 4 use them as the house bank - giving you about 450 AH in series/parallel. This gives you 225 AH of use t...

mitiempo

That's correct, straight thread on the through hull side and tapered on the hose side.

mitiempo

I'm not sure which fittings you are referring to. The through hull (mushroom) fitting is NPS (straight thread) - not NPT (tapered thread). This link might help.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/seacock_primer
and this one as well.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls

mitiempo

Looks like rotten core to me as well. For it to be liquid there would have to have been leaks from deck hardware. If this boat doesn't have core in the deck and/or cabintop it is one of a very small percentage that doesn't. George Hinterhoeller was one of the founders of C&C yachts, and they use...

mitiempo

I would bet they were originally anodized, otherwise there would be a lot of corrosion after all these years.

mitiempo

I'd remove it and do it properly. Ideally it should be a tight fit to the cabintop before sealant is used. A gap that large will be near impossible to seal long term and certainly not without removing it first. As for sealant butyl would be a good choice.

mitiempo

Here's a pretty crafty idea. It is from this boat (26'). http://www.yachtsnet.co.uk/archives/vic ... a%2026.htm

All the boats on this site show many interior pictures. The Brits usually manage to work a chart table in somewhere. http://www.yachtsnet.co.uk/archives.htm

mitiempo

I don't think there would be a real problem with the countersunk flat head machine screws. There should not be much if and expansion like there would be with plexiglas ports as the bilge won't have the heat of the sun to deal with. If you don't want to do that the socket heads should work well. Noth...

mitiempo

Here's another link for sail dimensions for any boat.
http://www.sailboatrigdimensions.com/
It shows the I at 26.5 and the J at 8.58 for the Electra

mitiempo

A wire wheel on a Dremel should work.

mitiempo

With a tank that long I would want baffles. With a half full tank and the boat rising to waves the water will rush from one end to the other. Baffles will quieten the tank as well as protect it from destroying itself by this movement.

mitiempo

And they don't need a vent. But make sure the compartment is well padded. I have a small one and will probably get another.

mitiempo

Rachel It looks like a gradual slope, but every dimension is smaller at one end or the other. Top 12" to 10" wide, bottom 10" to 8" wide, and height 6" to 12". By not having fittings on top the tank can be a bit taller. I checked the capacity because I thought it would ...

mitiempo

Doesn't sound too out of line. I paid about $500 a year ago for a SS diesel tank custom made and it was a lot smaller than your water tank - 14 gallons actually.

mitiempo

I'd second a stainless tank in the bilge. I also think it is too low for batteries. I'd also remove the lifting eye. As far as the "blob" I guess it was cheaper to leave it there rather than remove it. Who would ever see it anyway?

mitiempo

I think you're best to use thin, 3/16" or less strips of solid wood. Pieces this thin are able to be attached with epoxy only. Thicker wood will need fastenings as the forces when the wood moves will overcome the bond of the epoxy. West has some good guidelines about installing a wood overlay o...

mitiempo

Don't ask the racers. They use exotics at any price and replace when necessary. Dynex Dux is the stuff you want and it didn't come from racing but from the commercial fishing industry. You can read all about it here http://www.colligomarine.com/ If you want a good opinion ask here http://www.brionto...

mitiempo

I'd recommend acrylic, commonly called plexiglass. While lexan is stronger it scratches easily and doesn't like uv either. All major hatch manufacturers except Bomar use acrylic and it will last a long time in a hatch or port. A neighbor at my marina has a Spencer 35 and hir acrylic fixed ports are ...

mitiempo

You're right Rachel. The one I am calling senior is Bill Tripp II, the designer of many plastic classics. And I agree that Bill Tripp III's designs don't really appeal to me either.

mitiempo

Today most suggest placing the largest layer of glass cloth first and working to the smallest, the theory being you will not sand through the large piece when fairing.

mitiempo

Ray
My water tank if farther forward and I will have to drill a hole for the speed/log/temp transducer quite close to the depth transducer.

mitiempo

I installed my ST40 transducer on my boat, a CS27, ahead of the keel on the centerline. After checking it in a baggie of water I built a dam around the area and poured in straight epoxy. Next day I epoxied the transducer on the new flat section after again checking with a baggie of water. It is also...

mitiempo

Rachel - I stand corrected. Bold it is. But he did mean Bill Tripp Sr. I don't think junior was designing in the 60's when the CCA was the rule. IOR was introduced around 1970 with Olin Stephens heavily involved in its formation. It replaced the Cruising Club of America rule which to my eye produced...

mitiempo

I installed a Raymarine ST 40 with the standard transducer that is designed for mounting through the hull but epoxied it inside and it works fine. I agree there are enough holes already. Any transducer of good quality should be able to shoot through the hull as long as it is solid glass.

mitiempo

I don't know if anyone has but if you can install a power take off you can install a pump. Normal equipment on fishboats and other commercial craft. Expecting a big leak?

mitiempo

There was a Medallist from Seattle visiting our marina a few weeks ago. I have always loved the look of that design as well as many of Tripp's other designs. The bubble shaped house adds to it.
To quote Bob Perry from another site "Tripp's bows were beautiful, slow but beautiful."

mitiempo

Agreed, a shallow tray is better than a deep mixing container. I use West and always use the slow hardener to get extra working time as well.

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