Covering holes from removed deck hardware

wfraser · Post by **wfraser** » Sun Nov 16, 2008 10:15 am

I'll soon be removing all hardware from the deck and wonder if someone can suggest a tape to cover the holes in the deck. Regular tape is not a good idea as it may be 3-4 weeks before I get to rebedding the hardware.

I've heard of silver weather-resistant masking tape but am unfamiliar with its applications and seen boats in the marina using a tin foil-like tape. Can anyone name a brand to consider?

Thanks for your help.

Warren Fraser
s/v Voyager of Yokohama

Post by **Tim** » Sun Nov 16, 2008 11:18 am

3M #225 silver masking tape will last well outdoors for up to 30 days, and is easily removable thereafter with no residue. That said, keep the time to a minimum. This is what I would recommend.

Forget duct tape, foil tape, and similar; they leave horrible residue behind and don't last well to boot.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Sun Nov 16, 2008 5:52 pm

And if you do get a bit behind in your project, remember you can always remove the tape and apply fresh tape to buy some time. Anything to avoid having to remove the "cement tape" that's been on too long. (I'm assuming these are just "rough" pieces put over holes, not carefully contoured pieces on for painting.)

Welcome! I don't think we have too many members in Japan :)

Rachel

Hirilondë · Post by **Hirilondë** » Sun Nov 16, 2008 8:34 pm

3M makes an adhesive remover especially for tape residue. It may be some what amusing to remove the traces if the tape has been on a while. But since you should be thoroughly cleaning the surface just before bedding the hardware back on, it isn't the end of it all if you have to scrub a little.

Another option is to inject a small dollop of sealant into the holes instead of using tape. Then just reef the holes out with your drill immediately prior to installing the hardware. Use the same sealant you will use as bedding.

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:50 am

Another option is to inject a small dollop of sealant into the holes instead of using tape.

Yep, that's my idea too. It removes the time contraints.

I have used thickened epoxy in the same way. Drilling it out takes about two seconds later.

Al · Post by Al » Mon Nov 17, 2008 11:01 am

You can buy a tarp for what the 3M silver tape costs!

Summersdawn · Post by **Summersdawn** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 12:45 pm

If you haven't potted the holes, I would recommend overdrilling and filling with thickened epoxy. Then you can drill the correct size hole through the epoxy plug when it is time to remount your hardware.

Idon84 · Post by **Idon84** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 1:53 pm

Hey Warren,

Good to see you around here. I'm sure you will find a TON of boat info here that you will have a hard time finding anywhere else. A plastic boat is a plastic boat no matter who makes it!

Anyway I would agree with the others that tape is only temporary thing to do. I would much agree that overdriving and filling with thickened epoxy is the way to go especially with your plywood core. Noticed on the BCC site that you do indeed seem to have a plywood core for you Canadian built boat. My CBCC has a balsa core. I wonder why they changed for your boat...?

I just did some taping prior to the weather getting wetter here in the NW. I was trying to get all of the holes on deck over-drilled and filled before they got wet in the fall. The tape was left on no more than a week and even after that the clean up was a bear! I should have just filled as I went rather than trying to over drill one day, prep the next and fill the next. If you do use tape for a temp cover use what Tim recommends for sure.

Good luck! And be sure to post some pictures for all of us to see!

Regards,

Hirilondë · Post by **Hirilondë** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 8:43 pm

Al wrote:You can buy a tarp for what the 3M silver tape costs!

LOL, ain't that the truth.

wfraser · Post by **wfraser** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 9:12 am

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. Initially, I'm going at the stantions. and things are complicated by the fact that the stantion bases have a teak base sealed to the deck by what I suspect is 3M5200. I'm not sure yet, but the stuff is as hard as a rock. Also the boat was built in 1981 and I again suspect the teak bases haven't come off in all that time so I expect some degree of rot. I may need to spend a lot of time on each stantion, so in the end, the idea of overboring and then sealing with thickened epoxy one-by-one is the way to go.

By the way, Torrenson on eBay has the Silver tape going for $9.99 a roll. Not sure if that's a good price or not.

This site is a gold mine of ideas and suggestions, and I hope I can contribute meaningfully to the wealth of knowledge here.

Bryon, I've looked at your Picasa images and am really impressed by your efforts, and now feel somewhat less overwhelmed by the far simpler refit I have planned for Voyager. Good luck.Thanks again for the information

Warren
BCC Voyager of Yokohama

David · Post by **David** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:02 am

Summersdawn wrote:If you haven't potted the holes, I would recommend overdrilling and filling with thickened epoxy. Then you can drill the correct size hole through the epoxy plug when it is time to remount your hardware.

What I do is to overbore and fill with epoxy; then position the piece of hardware again and drill the correct sized hole only about a quarter inch into the epoxy. That marks the exact holes. Then, after I repaint, I will completely drill the hole with the right sized tap bit, tap the hole for the fastener to prevent any entry of water, etc.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:30 am

David wrote:What I do is to overbore and fill with epoxy; then position the piece of hardware again and drill the correct sized hole only about a quarter inch into the epoxy...

Oh that's a good idea if you're going to be painting and might otherwise "lose" the position of a piece of deck hardware. I'm going to tuck that one away for future use, thanks.

R.

Zach · Post by **Zach** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:04 pm

Great tip David, thanks.

I use some cheap bathtub caulk, that is really caulk and not the silicone goo. 2 bucks a tube, give it a squirt and ream it out later. Bigger holes get a cork, or wooden plug... little bit bigger, a piece of plywood and mylar packing tape over it.

Idon84 · Post by **Idon84** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:10 pm

David seems full of great ideas... WHY DIDN'T I THINK OF THAT? !+$&#@ Boat work takes up enough too much time, it's nice to have other to help think for you!

CHEERS!

-a slightly buzzed & crazy plastic boat slave... Bryon

David · Post by **David** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 10:32 am

If you use a vix self-centering bit--Tim has mentioned them also either here and/or on his site--you can be assured of getting the hole centered. I use a slightly larger vix bit and come back later with the right size tap bit. Since I will chamfer the hole at the deck to hold a nice bead of caulk, it doesn't matter if the vix bit is larger.