repairing balsa cored decks

[solosailor]

I am sure this has been asked before many times. But I don't see any references here so I'm going to ask for information about replacement or repair of balsa cores.

I'm looking a boat built in 1979 to Lloyds specs. Beautiful, true Classic Plastic. But unfortunately some bonehead added teak decks to her at some point in her history. They are in terrible shape now and I'm sure water has had to get buy many of the ten thousand screws.

First question is; how do I test the shape of the balsa core with all that teak in place. Do I have to tear it off first? I mean if the whole core is shot, then there really isn't a boat there is there. What a crying shame. This is a drop dead gorgeous old girl. In my opinion.

Second question; How does some one fix a partially soggy balsa corded deck?

Is there anybody here who has done this?

[Rachel]

Welcome, solosailor,

Many forum members have re-cored part or all of their decks. Rather than try to choose a thread for you, here is a link to the search results for "deck re-core." This should give you some good browsing for starters.

Okay, I guess it's not possible to link to a page of search results, but here's how I got to them: I typed "deck re-core" into the search box, and hit the radio button just beneath that box for "search for all terms." You might have to skip over a few threads, but there are a number of good ones there for informative reading.

How do I test the shape of the balsa core with all that teak in place. Do I have to tear it off first? I mean if the whole core is shot, then there really isn't a boat there is there.

There may be other methods, but one way - if you have access - is to drill some small test holes up into the core from beneath. You can mark a drill bit with a "flag" of blue tape to keep you from going too far in (if you don't have drill stop collars).

I wouldn't go so far as to say there is "no boat" if the decks are completely soggy, as many have been brought back from that state, but there is definitely work to do and materials to buy. The teak overlay adds to it.

Second question; How does some one fix a partially soggy balsa corded deck?

As you'll see by reading the threads, there is some variation. i.e. going from beneath vs. above; type of core material used; whether or not to re-use the deck skins. But basically it amounts to cutting either the top or bottom of the deck off, removing the rotten core, prepping, adding new core, re-fiberglassing, fairing, and re-finishing.

One method I wouldn't count on using, myself, is the "drill a bunch of holes and pour epoxy in" one. I don't think there would be universal agreement on this, but I feel that it often does not really accomplish the goal, and it makes it harder to go back in and repair again (but there could be exceptions, especially in a very small wet patch).

When I re-cored, I used the former method. I had a boat with a deck surface in very good condition, so I went from below. Unfortunately, one cannot put gravity on hold ;)

Is there anybody here who has done this?

Oh, there are a few soldiers who have returned from that battle :^)

Of course we'd love to see and hear more about the boat.

Rachel

[David]

If the core is saturated, you will have to tear off the teak decks anyway. I see little reason to replace the teak decks--they are pretty to look at but more trouble than they are worth. But to test for wet core, you can remove some bungs in a pattern where the decks look to be leaking, or near hardware that is thru-bolted. Consider hardware that is under high tension, like cleats or the mounting bases for a traveller bridge. Also look for areas near stantions or where there are signs of standing water such as near the scuppers.

Remove the screws--any that show rust means you don't have to investigate any further. If the screw is clean, drill down into the core with a bit slightly smaller than the bung and see if the material the drill brings up is dry balsa or wet balsa. If the core samples are all dry you can fill the holes with epoxy and rebung. If the teak is too far gone to save you can then make a determination as to tearing off the old decks, or reseaming and rebunging the existing teak. IF you find wet core, you will have to consider further surgery. Franly, no matter how pretty she is, if you are still kicking the tires, saturated core should lower the price significantly; if it doesn't I'd look for another boat.

Good luck,

David

[cmartin]

First question is; how do I test the shape of the balsa core with all that teak in place

If it were me, I would take readings from the inside, underneath the deck. Removing some of the teak is surely an option, that should give you an indication of how well it was installed.

[Hirilondë]

But unfortunately some bonehead added teak decks to her at some point in her history. They are in terrible shape now and I'm sure water has had to get buy many of the ten thousand screws.

Why is adding teak decks unfortunate? Why does it make someone a bonehead? You offer no evidence that it was poorly done nor state why you are sure water has gotten in? Do you really know there is a problem?

Until you can show what the problem is I don't see how any questions or advice can really be of value. Maybe there isn't a wet core? Maybe the deck just looks terrible and can be refinished? I have no way of knowing based on your post. Do you?

I don't say these things to be critical, but based on the lack of information this whole thread could be about seriously jumping the gun. If the decks really are a disaster they need to be torn off anyway. Then you can address it all from the top. If they are repairable and not in fact leaking it is an entirely different situation. I surely don't know which it is from what is posted.

[David]

'Sounds like someone has a case of the Mondays"

[solosailor]

I say bonehead because the addition of teak decks really introduces the possibilities for leaks. I certainly agree that teak looks wonderful when done properly and maintained properly. But in the case of this boat the application is somewhat amateurish. So the chances of water intrusion is very high.

Having said this, if I do buy the boat and repair the decks. I would replace the teak. At this point I have little to loose. I guess my thinking is, why work hard to create a good cosmetic FG finish when I can have teak again. I guess that makes me a bonehead too. I think the difference is if you commit yourself to teak. Do a good job and maintain it!

Any logic to this thinking?

[Hirilondë]

Ok, then let's get back to some basic info first. What kind of boat? We don't even know that. Have you had it surveyed? Are you going to? If you know the teak decks need replacing, and you know you have coring issues, is it worth buying this boat? Will the present owner let you drill holes and such to evaluate the situation yourself? Until you can ascertain whether to buy it or not all of your questions are purely academic. Maybe I am having a case of the "Mondays", but I actually know a little about teak decks and I have no information here that would help me offer any advice. Top that off with the fact that I think you are really asking is if it is worth buying the boat at all.

[David]

Some reasons to NOT replace the pretty teak decks:

• For what the teak, empty caulking tubes and caulking will cost you, you could buy another boat.
  Laying a teak deck, cockpit, cabintop, etc requires a lot of skill--or twice as much teak for all the miscuts.
  You will need long boards of old growth teak, 8/4 and resawn, planned, shaped: boo koo expensive.
  The reduction in weight will make the boat siffer, carry more sail longer.
  The reduction in weight will let you carry more stores.
  The time you save will let you go sailing much much sooner.