Triton, area in front of rudder, behind lead.
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- Deck Grunge Scrubber
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 8:13 am
- Boat Name: Ring
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton 559
- Location: Pembroke Mass.
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Triton, area in front of rudder, behind lead.
This area on my triton was weaping before I stripped the bottom and after, so I drilled into it to let it drip out more. Thinking this would let it dry up. It really didn't, so I drilled a couple bigger holes. Long story short, finally found a crack on the side of the bottom of the bilge. Some have said to just close it up and be done with it, I say it should dry up, or somehow, some way it will come back to haunt me! Any thoughts?
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
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- Boat Name: Glissando
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Do you mean the false keel?
More specific details of your problem and where you're drilling holes, locating the cracks, and so forth will help us determine how to answer your questions.
More specific details of your problem and where you're drilling holes, locating the cracks, and so forth will help us determine how to answer your questions.
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- Deck Grunge Scrubber
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 8:13 am
- Boat Name: Ring
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton 559
- Location: Pembroke Mass.
- Contact:
False keel
Yes the false keel, several inches up from the bottom and forward from the rudder, about a foot. I know this area must be filled with the foamy floatation stuff that they use to put under seats in aluminum fishing boats. The water was just seeping out of one or two areas, and thats where I drilled. Now the crack in the bilge runs along the seem, where the bottom meets the portside wall of the bilge. The crack or opened seem runs aft/upwards, towards the engine compatment. I just thought if I could dry this foamy insulation up before incapsulating it would be beneficial to alot of things,"weight/moisture" and peace of mind. I also thought of cutting at least a square hole, cleaning and air drying whats in there and then replacing the square piece and glassing it back up. thanks
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
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Here is a thread that contains some good photos of the anatomy of a false keel, which may help you as you proceed with your own repairs.
Yup, that'll work. But however you want to approach it, I think your way will become clear once you start opening things up.cdawgs65 wrote: I just thought if I could dry this foamy insulation up before incapsulating it would be beneficial to alot of things,"weight/moisture" and peace of mind. I also thought of cutting at least a square hole, cleaning and air drying whats in there and then replacing the square piece and glassing it back up.
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- Deck Grunge Scrubber
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 8:13 am
- Boat Name: Ring
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton 559
- Location: Pembroke Mass.
- Contact:
false keel
Thanks, I took alook at that thread and probably will read it about twenty times in the near future!
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- Almost a Finish Carpenter
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Re: Triton, area in front of rudder, behind lead.
Had the same problem, in the same area, on my Bristol 24 last month. I cut out an 8"x3" hole and found a void filled with wet sawdust. Cleaned it out, filled the void with closed cell foam and ground back and repaired the hole with woven roving and glass cloth in epoxy. Strong as new now.cdawgs65 wrote:This area on my triton was weaping before I stripped the bottom and after, so I drilled into it to let it drip out more. Thinking this would let it dry up. It really didn't, so I drilled a couple bigger holes. Long story short, finally found a crack on the side of the bottom of the bilge. Some have said to just close it up and be done with it, I say it should dry up, or somehow, some way it will come back to haunt me! Any thoughts?