Any tips for removing the injector pump on Westerbeke 40?
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- Bottom Paint Application Technician
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- Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 4:38 pm
- Boat Name: Miss Nettie
- Boat Type: Alberg 37
Any tips for removing the injector pump on Westerbeke 40?
I have a diesel leak on a fitting on the injector pump located between the pump and the engine itself, so it is very, very difficult to get at. It appears that I am going to have to remove the injector pump to fix the leak at the fitting. It looks like it is a matter of taking off all the fuel lines, along with the throttle and stop controls, and then removing the three bolts that hold the pump on. The part that I am worrying about is messing up the timing of the pump. I am thinking I can carefully remove it, tape over the hole that the gears are in so they aren't disturbed, and then carefully replace it after fixing the leaky fitting. Has anyone tread this road before? Any tips?
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- Rough Carpentry Apprentice
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- Location: Concord, NH
Re: Any tips for removing the injector pump on Westerbeke 40?
been there...done that...not so bad as it sounds......
The 40 is pretty much the same as the 4-107 & 4-108 so this is pretty straight forward. The quill on the pump ensures that the pump is mounted with the timing correct - there is a mounting hash mark on the pump triangular flange & on the pump mount face to "adjust" timing by rotating the pump flange - I think 5 degrees +/- TDC...... If the engine has worked well, assume the timing is correct & take a digital photo to "refresh" your memory when putting the pump back on.
Tape is a pain....throw a rag over the hole so nothing falls in & don't worry about it - nothing moves on the gear train. Don't loose the pump flange gasket - westerbeke gets a fortune for them.
Pump removal time on my 4-107 is about 1 1/2 hour if nothing drops into the bilge......replacement - add an hour or so plus "bleed" time.
On the 4-107 the biggest pain is the flange top bolt - it's an allen head.....
Have Fun!
Mike
The 40 is pretty much the same as the 4-107 & 4-108 so this is pretty straight forward. The quill on the pump ensures that the pump is mounted with the timing correct - there is a mounting hash mark on the pump triangular flange & on the pump mount face to "adjust" timing by rotating the pump flange - I think 5 degrees +/- TDC...... If the engine has worked well, assume the timing is correct & take a digital photo to "refresh" your memory when putting the pump back on.
Tape is a pain....throw a rag over the hole so nothing falls in & don't worry about it - nothing moves on the gear train. Don't loose the pump flange gasket - westerbeke gets a fortune for them.
Pump removal time on my 4-107 is about 1 1/2 hour if nothing drops into the bilge......replacement - add an hour or so plus "bleed" time.
On the 4-107 the biggest pain is the flange top bolt - it's an allen head.....
Have Fun!
Mike
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- Bottom Paint Application Technician
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 4:38 pm
- Boat Name: Miss Nettie
- Boat Type: Alberg 37
Re: Any tips for removing the injector pump on Westerbeke 40?
Last Saturday I spent another day contorted under my nav table trying to remove the injector pump. I took off all the fuel lines to the pump and in so doing I was able to get better access to the leaky fitting and was able to remove it with the injector pump still mounted. I inspected the fittings, washers, fuel line, etc. and everything looked perfect. I then felt the area where the fitting mounts into the pump and there is a gash or gouge under where the washer mates on the side of the pump. So I am thinking the fuel is escaping via this gouge in the metal. Thus I will still have to remove the injector pump and grind down the gouge or fill it somehow ( JB weld, Solder?).
I tried to get a hex key on the set screw but it is in a really tight spot and the hex key was too long,
it hit part of the engine aft of the set screw before I could get the hex key in the head of the screw. So I am going to cut down the hex key and hopefully will be able to get it in the set screw next weekend. Does anyone know what size hex key the set screw takes?
I tried to get a hex key on the set screw but it is in a really tight spot and the hex key was too long,
it hit part of the engine aft of the set screw before I could get the hex key in the head of the screw. So I am going to cut down the hex key and hopefully will be able to get it in the set screw next weekend. Does anyone know what size hex key the set screw takes?