Supplier for Yanmar parts in PNW?

s/v Groovy · Post by **s/v Groovy** » Tue May 29, 2007 4:43 pm

Since I can't order from Torrensen / Marine Diesel Direct.... Does anyone have a recommendation who to order parts for my 2GM20F?

I'm very near Seattle.

I am also wondering how often people do their maintenance , hours between oil / fuel filter changes etc...

Post by **Tim** » Tue May 29, 2007 4:56 pm

I do oil and filter changes about once every 80 hours of run time, or at least once a season. Since I don't run the engine anywhere close to 80 hours per season, I end up doing seasonal changes only.

I also typically change my fuel filters once per season, usually very early each season.

s/v Groovy · Post by **s/v Groovy** » Tue May 29, 2007 5:33 pm

Thanks Tim, since you have the same Yanmar in Glissando, how much oil do you usually change? I just did my second change after 60 hours. The PO installed a electric pump for changes, making the job fairly easy (as long as the oil is hot enough). With oil and filter I changed ~2 quarts, but I have a feeling that the changer 'straw' is not long enough. I know changing through the dipstick will never get it all, but 2Q seems on the light side.

Also, on my V-Drive, the level is barely over the mark on the threaded dipstick. Do you have a recommendation on what to add, Add only? Should I try to change it? I'm assuming the lubricating fluid is the same on a straight drive and a V-Drive...

I have also read you saying that you cruse ~2900 rpm, If I go over 2600 all I get quite a bit of cavitation, but I push it to 2900-3000 every now and then as to not baby her... sound good?

Oh, I'm also using Fram oil filters, it this a reasonable substitute for the OEM?

Anyway thanks for all the Q's, since 'Groovy's' purchase price was basically what the PO paid for the repower, I'm trying to be the best mechanic I can.....

BTW, 'Sea Glass' looks gorgeous! Exactly what I'd like to do, right down to the same nonskid color....

fusto · Post by **fusto** » Tue May 29, 2007 9:39 pm

I work for a boatyard in Bellingham, but we have 2 other yards down in the Seattle area, and we primarily use Gallery Marine for Yanmar parts.
http://www.gallerymarine.com/

Don't know how their prices rate compared to Torresen but we've had good luck with them.

YMMV

Peter · Post by **Peter** » Wed May 30, 2007 12:29 am

I've had good service from Blue Water Ships Stores in Texas. They were happy to ship to me in the NW.

Post by **Tim** » Wed May 30, 2007 6:50 am

s/v Groovy wrote:Thanks Tim, since you have the same Yanmar in Glissando, how much oil do you usually change? I just did my second change after 60 hours. The PO installed a electric pump for changes, making the job fairly easy (as long as the oil is hot enough). With oil and filter I changed ~2 quarts, but I have a feeling that the changer 'straw' is not long enough. I know changing through the dipstick will never get it all, but 2Q seems on the light side.

I can't recall exactly how much oil comes out, but it's always disappointingly minimal and quite a bit less than the overall capacity of the reservoir. 2 quarts seems a bit low, though, but it's been a while since I changed my engine oil (since I didn't use the boat last season and have posponed this spring's oil change till the boat goes in the water next week), so I can't say exactly. I don't even recall at the moment what the crankcase capacity is. I think 4-5 quarts. I doubt you'll get out more than 3 quarts when you change, though.

Also, remember that new oil in any diesel will turn deep black immediately after running the engine at all, so don't ever expect clear amber oil when you check.

s/v Groovy wrote:Also, on my V-Drive, the level is barely over the mark on the threaded dipstick. Do you have a recommendation on what to add, Add only? Should I try to change it? I'm assuming the lubricating fluid is the same on a straight drive and a V-Drive...

I would assume nothing, and since I don't have a V-drive I'm not sure what the fluid recommendation is. Any fluid in a transmission requires less frequent changing than the main engine oil, but if you're not sure when it was done last it wouldn't hurt to change it now.

Do you have more than one mark on your dipstick for the transmission? Many have only one mark, and the fluid should be just to that line. I'm not familiar with your V-drive, but my Kanzaki straight transmission has only one mark on the dipstick.

If you have two marks, and you're only at the lower one, then add fluid to the top line, whether you plan to change it soon or not.

s/v Groovy wrote:I have also read you saying that you cruise ~2900 rpm, If I go over 2600 all I get quite a bit of cavitation, but I push it to 2900-3000 every now and then as to not baby her... sound good?

2600 is within the realm of proper cruising speed. I actually cruise at 2700-2800, not 2900. If you're getting cavitation, it could be symptomatic of several things, from prop-blade damage to the wrong-sized prop for your situation to a simple fact of the boat design. Assuming your actual WOT throttle setting is generally same as mine, 2600 is a decent cruising speed.

s/v Groovy wrote:Oh, I'm also using Fram oil filters, it this a reasonable substitute for the OEM?

I have always felt that using OEM filters is inexpensive insurance for your engine. They may cost more, but you know that they are exactly what the manufacturer recommends...and the overall increase in cost is really a pittance in the scheme of things.

I use only the Yanmar-branded filters. I bought them in bulk some years ago, which now means that each filter change is "free" since the pain of purchase is so far in the past. I have a couple left, so it's about time for a reorder.

Somewhere here we have had a discussion on oil filters in the past. I recall that Wix filters were highly regarded, and Fram not so much. All oil filters are definitely not created equal. You can use many different compatible types, and some cost more than others. Just be sure you know what you're getting in each case. I figure the one stamped "Yanmar" is my best bet since I know that the manufacturer thinks it's OK for the engine.

FWIW, I believe that the Napa Gold filters were manufactured by Wix, too. I'll try to find the filter thread and post it here for reference.

Post by **dasein668** » Wed May 30, 2007 8:04 am

Tim wrote:I think 4-5 quarts. I doubt you'll get out more than 3 quarts when you change, though.

I'm pretty sure the 2GM capacity is 1.9 liters. Though, I don't have my manual here in front of me, so I could be off base.

s/v Groovy · Post by **s/v Groovy** » Wed May 30, 2007 11:50 am

Great, a local supplier and a mail order resource, thanks Fusto and Peter.

The PO was using Fram filters, but I guess I'll add some OEM filters to my parts order.

The maintenance log shown the PO was doing an oil only change, then a oil and filter change a couple of engine hours later, thoughts?

the V-Drive dipstick only has one mark, since the level is just above that, it seems right I guess, there is now 210 hours on the engine so I guess I'll plan a change. I read the manual and the diagram was a bit confusing, but I'm sure Galley Marine can help.

I think 4-5 quarts. I doubt you'll get out more than 3 quarts when you change, though.

Ok, I'll get a longer 'straw' for the change pump and see if I can get more out @ 250 hours.

Post by **Tim** » Wed May 30, 2007 5:12 pm

dasein668 wrote:
Tim wrote:I think 4-5 quarts. I doubt you'll get out more than 3 quarts when you change, though.
I'm pretty sure the 2GM capacity is 1.9 liters. Though, I don't have my manual here in front of me, so I could be off base.

This is correct. So if you're getting out 2 quarts, that's all there is to get.

As I said, it's been a while since I changed it, so my memory has obviously faded badly.