Progressive Epoxies
-
- Skilled Systems Installer
- Posts: 188
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 10:21 pm
- Boat Name: TBD
- Boat Type: Rhodes 19
- Location: Canterbury, NH
- Contact:
Progressive Epoxies
Anyone have any experience with this company? I know the website is awful, but the prices are really cheap and they are located about 20 minutes from my house.
David,
I like to hear reviews and opinions of boat-related products or processes (whether they be for or against), but could you tell a little bit about why you didn't/did like something, when you're opining? For me that always makes it much more useful. I know you've got a lot of experience and knowledge to share.
Thanks,
R.
I like to hear reviews and opinions of boat-related products or processes (whether they be for or against), but could you tell a little bit about why you didn't/did like something, when you're opining? For me that always makes it much more useful. I know you've got a lot of experience and knowledge to share.
Thanks,
R.
Well, I bought a 1.5 gallon package of epoxy and hardener to use on my bowsprit. Mostly bought it becuase of price, not for the no blush feature. It would fish-eye badly when I used it. The first time it did, I figured it must have been some kind of contamination in the teak, so I sanded it back to bare wood, cleaned the teak more thoroughly and tried again. It fish-eyed just as badly the second time. So another sanding down to bare wood, I applied West epoxy which went on like it always does, like varnish. I tried the Progressive epoxy once again, about a year later on some bare mahogany and it acted the same way. It just doesn't like me. I have stuck with West epoxy and I wouldn't go with anything else. For me it suits my needs exactly.
David
David
-
- Skilled Systems Installer
- Posts: 188
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 10:21 pm
- Boat Name: TBD
- Boat Type: Rhodes 19
- Location: Canterbury, NH
- Contact:
The teak was cleaned thoroughly with acetone prior to applying epoxy. I don't think it had anything to so with the wood, it was the their no blush epoxy. Other people may have great results with it but I need absolute consistency when I use epoxy and I get that with West. I personally don't need to look any farther. And that is not to cast any negative comments at any other brands of epoxy. I just happen to like West.
BTW this is what West looks like over bare teak and why I love it so: http://bristol29.com/Projects/Deck%20Pr ... rade16.jpg
David
BTW this is what West looks like over bare teak and why I love it so: http://bristol29.com/Projects/Deck%20Pr ... rade16.jpg
David
-
- Bottom Paint Application Technician
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 12:43 pm
- Location: Lake Michigan - Racine, WI
- Contact:
Wow!
That is sharp.
I have to admit that I feel like I'm in a twighlight zone thing. I work in a boatyard (old, pretty well established) and have to have been in hundreds of discussions for many years here and elsewhere on varnishes, IE cetol vs higher end varnishes etc. But for some reason only today, and twice today, in this post and on another site that I followed a link to a rehabed boat blog, do I ever recall noticing someone using epoxy instead of varnish.
Maybe it's a brain fart thing or something. But is it pretty common to epoxy brightwork? It obviously looks fantastic! How does it stand up? Doesn't epoxy have uv problems? Could you tell me what kind of lifespan it has?
Good god, I may have to re-do my entire boat!
I have to admit that I feel like I'm in a twighlight zone thing. I work in a boatyard (old, pretty well established) and have to have been in hundreds of discussions for many years here and elsewhere on varnishes, IE cetol vs higher end varnishes etc. But for some reason only today, and twice today, in this post and on another site that I followed a link to a rehabed boat blog, do I ever recall noticing someone using epoxy instead of varnish.
Maybe it's a brain fart thing or something. But is it pretty common to epoxy brightwork? It obviously looks fantastic! How does it stand up? Doesn't epoxy have uv problems? Could you tell me what kind of lifespan it has?
Good god, I may have to re-do my entire boat!
"All men die, but very few men ever really live!
Have a great day!
Joe
Have a great day!
Joe
Some people use epoxy as a base to build up for varnish, but I don't think anyone uses it as a varnish top coat - the UV would kill it right quick. Like maybe within weeks in the south, and within a season (?) up north. Failed epoxy would not be that fun to remove, I don't think.
Personally, I'm a varnish all the way type; but people whose work I respect have chosen to use the epoxy build coat technique.
R.
(Well, there is the "special hardener" for WEST epoxy that's meant for clear-coating, but I think that's used more on things like canoes that aren't going to live outside, isn't it?)
Personally, I'm a varnish all the way type; but people whose work I respect have chosen to use the epoxy build coat technique.
R.
(Well, there is the "special hardener" for WEST epoxy that's meant for clear-coating, but I think that's used more on things like canoes that aren't going to live outside, isn't it?)
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
- Contact:
Well, yes, but no: it's just a super-clear-curing hardener that lacks the coloration of the standard hardeners. And it still needs varnish to protect it.Rachel wrote:(Well, there is the "special hardener" for WEST epoxy that's meant for clear-coating, but I think that's used more on things like canoes that aren't going to live outside, isn't it?)
www.westsystem.com wrote: 207 Special Coating Hardener
This hardener was especially developed for use with WEST SYSTEM Brand 105 Resin in coating applications where an exceptionally clear, moisture-resistant, natural wood finish is desired. Cures to a light amber color, similar to traditional spar varnishes. An ultraviolet inhibiting additive improves the resistance of a WEST SYSTEM 105/207 mixture to sunlight, but the cured epoxy surface will still require the additional protection of a quality UV-filtering varnish. 207 is designed to self level for smooth finishes, and to wet-out and bond fabrics. Although it provides good physical properties for general bonding applications, it is more difficult to thicken and less cost effective for this purpose than 205 or 206 Hardeners. It’s also used for laminating veneers where bleed through at joints may be exposed to sunlight.
Mix Ratio, Resin:Hardener 3:1 by volume (3.5:1 by weight)*
Pot life at 72°F (22°C) 22 to 27 minutes
Cure to a solid state 9 to 12 hours
Cure to maximum strength 4 to 7 days
Minimum recommended temperature 60°F (16°C)
Pumps 300, 306-23 or 309-3
---------------------------------------------------
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
Thanks for the clarification, Tim. My memory on the special hardener was hazy and I should have done my research before I posted.
Right, so the canoe builders use it because it's nice and clear, but they probably do varnish over it (or if not, it's because they only see low-UV Minnesota daylight for occasional use).
R.
Right, so the canoe builders use it because it's nice and clear, but they probably do varnish over it (or if not, it's because they only see low-UV Minnesota daylight for occasional use).
R.
-
- Rough Carpentry Apprentice
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:55 pm
- Boat Name: IRIS
- Boat Type: Dickerson 36 Ketch
- Location: Concord, NH
progressive epoxies
A decent place to buy goods - they are close to Canterbury NH ; i'm in Concord & find them easy to use & a decent value.....
I've used their epoxies off and on for 4 years. The no blush they now offer is pretty good. Easy to use & forgiving. No-blush makes it an easy product to overcoat with finishes. I used this when I reglassed the cabin sides on my 1973 ketch - overcoated with a 2 part acrylic urethane -looks nice. Their low viscosity Ive used under varnish. it darkens the teak a little more than straight varnish - it sets up well & I hve never had any cure/adhere issues. I used it as a base for some bristol finish - came out okay, but seems that the bristol finish has not lasted well. I get decent longevity out of either epiphanes, or HMG Coma Bernice varnish.
Another easy place to get to is Mewfound boatworks in Bristol. They carry "silvertip" & MAS epoxies -I like the MAS, since it seems to work/wet out easily and "hangs" well. The also sell the HMG varnish which applies easily & seems to hold up well.
Mike
I've used their epoxies off and on for 4 years. The no blush they now offer is pretty good. Easy to use & forgiving. No-blush makes it an easy product to overcoat with finishes. I used this when I reglassed the cabin sides on my 1973 ketch - overcoated with a 2 part acrylic urethane -looks nice. Their low viscosity Ive used under varnish. it darkens the teak a little more than straight varnish - it sets up well & I hve never had any cure/adhere issues. I used it as a base for some bristol finish - came out okay, but seems that the bristol finish has not lasted well. I get decent longevity out of either epiphanes, or HMG Coma Bernice varnish.
Another easy place to get to is Mewfound boatworks in Bristol. They carry "silvertip" & MAS epoxies -I like the MAS, since it seems to work/wet out easily and "hangs" well. The also sell the HMG varnish which applies easily & seems to hold up well.
Mike
Re: progressive epoxies
Mike,boatsnh wrote: I get decent longevity out of either epiphanes, or HMG Coma Bernice varnish.
I notice this is post #1, so Welcome to the Forum! :)
I've been pretty happy with Epifanes, so I don't really have any reason to change, but.... "HMG Coma Bernice" sounds so exotic and Italian that I'll at least have to look it up on the web, just to see. It almost sounds like it would apply itself - just drape itself over the wood like a Sunday afternoon :D
Rachel