drop board U-channel

[Popeye1865]

Hello I'm looking for some advice on a source for some u-channel. I'm rebuilding my companion way and would like to install some track for my drop boards to slide in. I have checked mcmaster and they don't seem to have any anodized alum in the dimension I'm looking for and their brass/bronz is prohibitively expensive. I'm looking for. 1/2-5/8 groove width, 3/8-5/8 leg height, and roughly 1/8 thick. my other actually preferred option is brass or bronze but I've been scouring the internet without much luck.

anyone have a good source?

thank you
Brandon

[mitiempo]

Not sure where you are but in any major center there should be a metal supplier, a company that supplies the welding shops and metal fabricators nearby.

[Skipper599]

I second the previous poster's suggestion re Metal suppliers because that's what I did when in need of some aluminum channel:

The store did not have channel stock, only box sections. I purchased a piece of rectangular box stock of the required wall thickness, twice the width of the channel depth sections I required, and slightly longer than the length I needed - to allow for accurate trimming to length . . . figuring on getting two channel pieces by cutting the box-section lengthwise.

Setting the fence to assure the blade would cut exactly in the centre, and using a good 80 tooth carbide blade, I ran it the stock through the table saw with the blade raised just enough to cut through the single 1/8" side. The work piece was then flipped over and the process repeated on the other side providing me with the pair of channels I required to suit my needs.

After the basic cuts were done, I radiused all corners using a sanding disc, and sand paper. I shall have both pieces anodized at the local plating shop.

Of course, you can do the same thing with brass if you prefer, all I would say is, be sure to use safety precautions when cutting metal. eg: face shield and good work gloves etc.

Cutting non-ferrous metals on your saw is relatively simple. Just be sure to feed the material at a slow even rate through the saw. I always shut my shop to prevent visitors from entering when I am doing such work. . . . It's called being pro-active to prevent an accident.

Some folk advocate installing your blade in reverse for this type of metal work, using the back side of the carbide tooth to perform the cut. The thought being, there's less chance of "tooth-grab" when feeding the metal into the blade.

Personally, I do not subscribe to this idea. The teeth were never meant to cut on the back side and I believe it's possible to knock the carbide tips off when cutting in this manner. I use my blades in the conventional manner and have had no problems doing so.

The one thing I dislike about cutting aluminum is the millions of little silver flakes all over the shop when I'm done. It takes forever to suck them all ionto the shop-vac.

[Hirilondë]

Anodized material when cut, drilled or sanded leaves a new surface that is not anodized. I don't see this as an option at any price. Making the pieces (cutting, sanding, drilling screw holes, whatever) then having them anodized is certainly a viable route, but is is really much cheaper than bronze or brass?

Wood works too, is that an option for you?

[Skipper599]

Anodized material when cut, drilled or sanded leaves a new surface that is not anodized. I don't see this as an option at any price. Making the pieces (cutting, sanding, drilling screw holes, whatever) then having them anodized is certainly a viable route, but is is really much cheaper than bronze or brass?

Wood works too, is that an option for you?

To clarify . . . the box tubing was NOT anodised in the first place and, I did say: " I shall have both pieces anodized at the local plating shop".

As was true in my case, aluminum is the best choice. The application being a single drop board for the face of a teak step accessing the companionway from the cockpit. The aluminum channels could well spend much of their time in extremely wet conditions. eg: the floor of the cockpit.

[Hirilondë]

To clarify . . . the box tubing was NOT anodised in the first place and, I did say: " I shall have both pieces anodized at the local plating shop".

I know you did, that is exactly why I made the comment, to elaborate on the subject. It wasn't directed at you at all, but to comment on Brandon's original thoughts.

[Popeye1865]

Thanks for the input I decided on some stainless that should do the trick. I probably should have called the local steel yard but was feeling lazy and sitting in front of my computer felt like a nice place to order some material.

thanks
Brandon