Pictures
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- Boateg
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Ok guys... here's a sneak preview:
Kind of less than exciting pictures, really. But the white looks exceptional in person. Tim did a great job spraying.
Kind of less than exciting pictures, really. But the white looks exceptional in person. Tim did a great job spraying.
Nathan
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- Damned Because It's All Connected
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I think it looks exceptional in the pictures, really. Most impressive.dasein668 wrote: Kind of less than exciting pictures, really. But the white looks exceptional in person. Tim did a great job spraying.
At the end of all of this you really ought to do a photo session of the newly-finished product, complete with bikini-clad beer commercial models to adorn the decks and demonstrate their fairness.
sigh. If only you hadn't blown your bikini-model budget on sandpaper! ;)
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- Topside Painter
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Thanks guys. I think both Tim (remember, he did all the spraying) and I are both very pleased with the results. It's not perfect, but then, what is? Generally speaking it came out exceptionally well. Definitely a 95 to 98 percent job, which is pretty excellent. Hope the hull comes out as nicely.
We'll soon know!
We'll soon know!
Nathan
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I'll see what we can do. Maybe I can talk my wife into it... heheFigment wrote:complete with bikini-clad beer commercial models to adorn the decks and demonstrate their fairness.
Nathan
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- Skilled Systems Installer
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Nathan,
Looks truly excellent! When are you scheduled to do the hull?
Looks truly excellent! When are you scheduled to do the hull?
Doug
http://heartofgoldsails.com
"The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears or the sea."
Karen Blixen
http://heartofgoldsails.com
"The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears or the sea."
Karen Blixen
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Tomorrow.heartofgold wrote:When are you scheduled to do the hull?
(Friday, April 8)
Nathan
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Bottom likely stays as is (thought the new Vivid paints by Pettit open up some possibilities). Boot is silver. All the paint should be done by next week. (Boot, bottom, non-skid).
Last edited by dasein668 on Sun Apr 10, 2005 7:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Nathan
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Ooooooh!
Aaaaaah!
Aaaaaah!
Doug
http://heartofgoldsails.com
"The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears or the sea."
Karen Blixen
http://heartofgoldsails.com
"The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears or the sea."
Karen Blixen
- Peter
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Awesome ... that's all I can say.
BTW, what type/kind of paint did you use on topsides and hull?
Looking at the topsides photos shows how little overspray there is onto the masking tape. That's a nice feature of the HVLP guns.
Those two-level saw horses for the staging are neat. Mind if I borrow that idea?
Excellent work Nathan and Tim !
BTW, what type/kind of paint did you use on topsides and hull?
Looking at the topsides photos shows how little overspray there is onto the masking tape. That's a nice feature of the HVLP guns.
Those two-level saw horses for the staging are neat. Mind if I borrow that idea?
Excellent work Nathan and Tim !
- Tim
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Sure. Just send $99.95 to me for the plans. (just kidding...)Peter wrote:Those two-level saw horses for the staging are neat. Mind if I borrow that idea?
Not that you need instruction, but here's a description of how I built them: Staging Horses
The staging horses work very well. They might be a bit bulkier than ideal, making moving them about a little awkward in a tight shop, but they are stable and work well. The two heights are customized to these boats, or any boat of similar draft. They are a permanent fixture; I like to do as much work as possible from staging.
We're using Alexseal Yacht Coatings, a new product here. It's a linear polyurethane similar to Awlgrip, but designed to improve upon Awlgrip with the benefit of the 30 or so years since Awlgrip was introduced. It's also similar to Imron.Peter wrote:BTW, what type/kind of paint did you use on topsides and hull?
Nothing else looks like quality LPU when applied. And that gloss will stick around for a decade or more.
I'm posting some brief comments about each of the products in the line on the Daysailor website as I use them. Comments on the topcoats will be added by Sunday's update.
Alexseal Comments
Nathan's away this weekend, but if you're all nice, I might post a picture or two of his boat with the tape and plastic removed...
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- Tim
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HVLP Overspray
HVLP guns may produce less overspray than compressed air, but they still produce overspray, mostly in the form of a highly atomized mist that permeates the air.
When using a very light product like the Alexseal LPU (or Awlgrip), the atomization is intense, and very much highlights the need for significantly efficient supplied air respiration.
I thought it would be interesting for all to see a picture I took about 10 minutes after completing the final coat of topcoat. I had just disassembled the gun to soak for cleaning, and was on my way out. The amount of mist in the air is clear (in a manner of speaking, that is) in this photo, though of course the flash makes it look worse than it really is.
Nathan's photos of the completed boat were taken probably 45 minutes or an hour after spraying was complete.
HVLP guns may produce less overspray than compressed air, but they still produce overspray, mostly in the form of a highly atomized mist that permeates the air.
When using a very light product like the Alexseal LPU (or Awlgrip), the atomization is intense, and very much highlights the need for significantly efficient supplied air respiration.
I thought it would be interesting for all to see a picture I took about 10 minutes after completing the final coat of topcoat. I had just disassembled the gun to soak for cleaning, and was on my way out. The amount of mist in the air is clear (in a manner of speaking, that is) in this photo, though of course the flash makes it look worse than it really is.
Nathan's photos of the completed boat were taken probably 45 minutes or an hour after spraying was complete.
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- Tim
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It might be of interest to see how much of that green paint was required for this job. I applied three coats to the entire hull. For spray, the Alexseal is mixed in a 1:1 ratio with its converter, and then reduced 25-35% with the appropriate reducer. For my turbine-powered HVLP gun, I find that somewhat higher amounts of reducer are required for the best leveling.
In total, over two separate batches, I mixed 36 oz. of topcoat base, 36 oz. of converter, and approximately 28 oz. of reducer. That's about 100 oz. of total liquid product required to paint this hull. I ended up with about 8-10 oz. of wasted, unused product when all was said and done.
In total, over two separate batches, I mixed 36 oz. of topcoat base, 36 oz. of converter, and approximately 28 oz. of reducer. That's about 100 oz. of total liquid product required to paint this hull. I ended up with about 8-10 oz. of wasted, unused product when all was said and done.
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- Master of the Arcane
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We promise to be very very nice...Nathan's away this weekend, but if you're all nice, I might post a picture or two of his boat with the tape and plastic removed...
Any cosmetic work on my boat this spring is strictly confined to my imagination. It is nice to confirm that the pictures in my head really could become a reality. I wish Nathan hadn't chosen dark green though. That was going to be my color. I do appreciate the fact that he is keeping about two years ahead of my project so everything is well tested before I copy it! Can I reserve a spot in the Lackey boat barn for a paint job over the winter of 2006/2007? It should coincide well with the Seawind.I think some people need to do less vicarious boatwork! hehe
Britton, the end of June isn't far off. Get movin! :<)
:-)
I am still on track for a late spring launch though at the moment I am waiting on several parts orders. Of course my boat will have a decidely strong echo in its empty interior but it will float again. Advice to fellow boat restorers... Do not, I repeat, DO NOT add up the cost of materials before the project is finished. All those bits and pieces add up to a staggering amount of money. I have officially begun to pay for boat expenses out of my food account. Rice and beans anyone?
Nice work guys.
-Britton
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Thanks for the info, Tim. With a smooth concrete floor one could put casters (with locking stops) to roll those horses around. Wouldn't work too well on my polytarp-covered gravel floor though.
I noticed some short vertical stripes of hull color just below the waterline. I'll hazard a guess that these are marks to show which area has been sprayed. When I gave my hull the first coat, red over white primer, it was easy to lay on, but on the second and third coats it was really easy to get lost and either miss an area or spray it twice. My right arm was just about falling off by the time the boat was finished!
The other thing I discovered is that you can't have too much lighting! Next time: a bank of flourescents along both walls.
Dasein looks super ... good work, guys.
I noticed some short vertical stripes of hull color just below the waterline. I'll hazard a guess that these are marks to show which area has been sprayed. When I gave my hull the first coat, red over white primer, it was easy to lay on, but on the second and third coats it was really easy to get lost and either miss an area or spray it twice. My right arm was just about falling off by the time the boat was finished!
The other thing I discovered is that you can't have too much lighting! Next time: a bank of flourescents along both walls.
Dasein looks super ... good work, guys.
- Tim
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Boy, is that the truth! Yes, the little vertical stripes are exactly as you suspect. On the first and second coats, I had no problem; the first coat was over the gray primer, and very light; the second coat was easy to discern from that light first coat.Peter wrote:I noticed some short vertical stripes of hull color just below the waterline. I'll hazard a guess that these are marks to show which area has been sprayed. When I gave my hull the first coat, red over white primer, it was easy to lay on, but on the second and third coats it was really easy to get lost and either miss an area or spray it twice. My right arm was just about falling off by the time the boat was finished!
But the third coat was extremely difficult. I think the dark green was easier than white, as the reflections were such that by keeping my eyes a bit below the gun (looking up at it), I could just see where I'd been. Spraying the third coat was about the most stressful thing I've ever done. Fortunately, it came out OK.
More lighting is essential going forward. Flourescents along both sides would be the way to go. The natural light in the shop worked in my favor on the starboard side (with the light behind me), but was a real pain on the port side, as it was in my eyes.
Gee, it sure would be nice to have a dedicated paint bay...downdraft, waterproof, no windows, and 48,000 light bulbs.
Peter, did you have luck buffing out the runs that you mentioned before?
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Wow ... she looks GREAT !!
Tim: On thr runs in my paint job: The little ones I shaved down with a flat razor blade while the paint was still a bit soft .. not all the way, but most of it.
Then I let it harden up for a few week. I had a large 'sag' that needed attention too. I wet-sanded the sag and the runs with 1000 grit wet/dry wrapped on a small flat wood block, went over it 2000 wet/dry, then buffed it with the polisher.
The sag is still a bit visible, as I was worried about taking too much paint off. I think I'm the only one who sees it. Buffing took care of a couple of 'orange peel' spots and the shaved runs.
Like anything else I've ever done, I'd like to do it again ... this time just a bit differently. But it's time to get out on the water and go sailing. I think I'm about two weeks away.
Tim: On thr runs in my paint job: The little ones I shaved down with a flat razor blade while the paint was still a bit soft .. not all the way, but most of it.
Then I let it harden up for a few week. I had a large 'sag' that needed attention too. I wet-sanded the sag and the runs with 1000 grit wet/dry wrapped on a small flat wood block, went over it 2000 wet/dry, then buffed it with the polisher.
The sag is still a bit visible, as I was worried about taking too much paint off. I think I'm the only one who sees it. Buffing took care of a couple of 'orange peel' spots and the shaved runs.
Like anything else I've ever done, I'd like to do it again ... this time just a bit differently. But it's time to get out on the water and go sailing. I think I'm about two weeks away.
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- Boateg
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And without a flash. The first shot I took, with flash, didn't look much better than the one Tim posted. The overspray definitely is NOT insignificant.Tim wrote:Nathan's photos of the completed boat were taken probably 45 minutes or an hour after spraying was complete.
Nathan
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- Boateg
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To match the silver Awlgrip boot, I'll be going with silver vinyl with white border for the name, just white vinyl for the hailing port. Font will be as before, but a bit bolder to allow for the white border:Figment wrote:What's the plan for the transom lettering? Gold leaf? White vinyl? something inbetween?
I've always felt that gold and green don't go that well together. A personal thing. But after seeing just how dark this green really is, I think it would be fine.
That said, the silver also is in keeping with the grey nonskid/silver canvas that we have/are going with.
Nathan
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- Damned Because It's All Connected
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I'd wait until the color could be seen in actual direct sunlight before making judgements about how dark the green really is.
This color reminds me of the old chevette I drove/wore in college. Somebody whacked it, so I had some insurance money to spend, and was free to repaint it any color I wanted. I chose a really really dark green.
At night, or on overcast days even, the car looked black.
In direct sunlight, the green came DAZZLING through.
That was a really metallic paint, though, so you probably won't have the jekyll and hyde thing as much.
Silver! that sounds fantastic. Can't wait to see it.
What's the grey thing above the "N" in that photo? mooring permit?
This color reminds me of the old chevette I drove/wore in college. Somebody whacked it, so I had some insurance money to spend, and was free to repaint it any color I wanted. I chose a really really dark green.
At night, or on overcast days even, the car looked black.
In direct sunlight, the green came DAZZLING through.
That was a really metallic paint, though, so you probably won't have the jekyll and hyde thing as much.
Silver! that sounds fantastic. Can't wait to see it.
What's the grey thing above the "N" in that photo? mooring permit?
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Opened the can of silver Awlgrip today.... looks like the evil Terminator in T2. Mmmmmmm.
Yes, the green is definitely green in the sun (we had the front doors open), and definitely could pass for black otherwise. Just what I wanted.
Yes, the green is definitely green in the sun (we had the front doors open), and definitely could pass for black otherwise. Just what I wanted.
Its a state of Florida Hull Identification sticker. Apparently Hull 668 wasn't enough?they needed an 80-digit ID number....Figment wrote:What's the grey thing above the "N" in that photo? mooring permit?
Nathan
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