Plastic Classic Forum

anybody have the dimensions for the triton stern? I am having my boat's name cut in vinyl, and it would save me a trip out to my boat. I have a good picture of her stern to use in Illustrator, but not the exact dimension from rail to rail. I know, I know, water install is not the best, but this year is all about the 'just git her done' philosophy, and I found a local guy that will cut her name for only $30.

thanks,

c

I don't have dimensions, but I just wanted to say that I installed two names and two hailing ports (double-ender) on a boat in the water. I didn't think it was that bad. Thing is, the lettering usually comes on one big piece of paper, so you are putting on a big chunk and not individual pieces (then you peel the front paper off). I worked from a small hard dinghy - boat was tied in a slip.

Rachel

I recently put lettering on my Triton, the notes I found show the widest part at 54" .

Barry

Rachel wrote:I don't have dimensions, but I just wanted to say that I installed two names and two hailing ports (double-ender) on a boat in the water. I didn't think it was that bad. Thing is, the lettering usually comes on one big piece of paper, so you are putting on a big chunk and not individual pieces (then you peel the front paper off). I worked from a small hard dinghy - boat was tied in a slip.

Rachel

I cut and install vinyl lettering. The best way to do it is line it up the way you want it. Tape the top edge in place. cut each letter out up to the tape. Take off the backing for each letter one at a time. Pressing firmly top to bottom. Squeegee it down then remove the top layer. Much easier than trying to do the whole thing at once.

By the way I have a lot of scrap stuff if anyone needs something cut. Just pay for the top layer usually $5.00.

Dan

Skipper Dan wrote:

Rachel wrote: The best way to do it is line it up the way you want it. Tape the top edge in place. cut each letter out up to the tape. Take off the backing for each letter one at a time. Pressing firmly top to bottom. Squeegee it down then remove the top layer. Much easier than trying to do the whole thing at once.

I worked for years with a long time professional boat letterer. He does hand painted and vinyl applications. He uses a method like the one Rachel describes for vinyl. I do not know myself what the best method is, or if there even is a best method. It would seem it is a matter of opinion.

I can't help you with the dimensions carterskemp, but having done toe rail and rub rail repairs from a dinghy I know such things can be done. It does however add a bit of challenge to the job, even on a calm day. Something with a flat bottom is advantageous :-)

thanks Rachel, Barry, and Dave.

will try the tape and cut method, sounds good. will also employ soapy water. get some good soapy water on the stern, and it gives you a little wiggle room when putting the vinyl down, and once squeegeed out, does not effect adhesion at all.

thanks also for the 54", this matches up with taking a measurement off of the Triton line drawings kicking around the web. I put the one of the half hull and sectional curves into autocad, scaled to match the 8'4" beam, then measured the stern, got 55" this way, even though the resolution on those drawings is pretty low.

one of these days I would love to make and share a 3D model of the Triton in Rhino to have a good starting reference for these types of things (I use the word starting here, because I know how different every triton seems to be. for example, my triton has the galley at the starboard forward end of the main cabin...) maybe in the fall I will play around with some photometric stuff when the hull is out of the water.

take care,

carter

Hirilondë wrote:He uses a method like the one Rachel describes for vinyl. I do not know myself what the best method is, or if there even is a best method. It would seem it is a matter of opinion.

This is true for a pro that does it everyday, even then if the project is large it gets cut in sections or you have two or three people helping. For lettering soapy water is not needed. The letters are not that wide (area). For graphics that have a lot of area it helps to use a solution. If you use a squeegee and hold the bottom out as you press it down from the top down it will lay right down. If you let the bottom hit first that is when you need the solution. Just have the cutter send along a scrap piece of anything and practice with it.

Dan