Try this one more time
Polishing the port lights stanchions cleats etc. is it worth the effort how long does it last might I ask?
What’s the best hardware to mount the teak handrails with and where could I order it from
PEARSON TRITON 28 hull 230
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- Bottom Paint Application Technician
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Re: PEARSON TRITON 28 hull 230
Hi Ron, I like the hand rails on the v berth coach roof...I think I’ll add those to mine. I saw your YouTube vids (thx for posting) and I really like the door you put on the bulkhead going into the head/hanging locker and the louvered door going into the v-berth. Where did you get your lavac toilet? Kind of hard to find.
Dan
- atomvoyager
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Re: PEARSON TRITON 28 hull 230
Ron
I use #12 stainless self-tapping or sheet metal screws for the teak handrails. There available at many places online.
The bronze will tarnish again within a few weeks exposed to the weather. Clear coatings to protect it don't last more than a year or so I found and an even patina looks better than the flaking uneven tarnish that results from a failing clear coating. If the tarnish is heavy and green then an initial polishing can be helpful and then it's up to you if you want to ignore it after that.
I use #12 stainless self-tapping or sheet metal screws for the teak handrails. There available at many places online.
The bronze will tarnish again within a few weeks exposed to the weather. Clear coatings to protect it don't last more than a year or so I found and an even patina looks better than the flaking uneven tarnish that results from a failing clear coating. If the tarnish is heavy and green then an initial polishing can be helpful and then it's up to you if you want to ignore it after that.
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- Bottom Paint Application Technician
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Re: PEARSON TRITON 28 hull 230
I picked that toilet up off eBay for 150 dollars and it come with the pump and handle Complet. It was very lightly used condition.
I still have to plum it in with holding tank nut looking forward to that.
I might go with a composting toilet maybe a c- head if I do and you want it I let you know
I still have to plum it in with holding tank nut looking forward to that.
I might go with a composting toilet maybe a c- head if I do and you want it I let you know
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- Bottom Paint Application Technician
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sun Jul 21, 2019 9:07 am
- Boat Name: Sloopy
- Boat Type: Triton 28
Re: PEARSON TRITON 28 hull 230
Oops I might have messed up on the fasteners on the hand rails I used regular bolts that ran all the way through from one Handel to the other. I covered both ends with teak plugs and sealant. I figured if air and water couldn’t get to them they would be fine. The coach roof I used stainless and the side rails I used stainless due to exposure , hope I didn’t do wrong on the roof rails I might go back drill them out and replace em later.
I don’t use any thing but stainless or brass through out the refit and so far that’s the only six bolts used that wasn’t. I new before I used them it was going to bother the shit out of me but done it any way.
I don’t use any thing but stainless or brass through out the refit and so far that’s the only six bolts used that wasn’t. I new before I used them it was going to bother the shit out of me but done it any way.
- atomvoyager
- Moderator | Revitalizer of Classics
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Re: PEARSON TRITON 28 hull 230
Thru-bolted handrails are the accepted standard rather than screws and I've done them that way. But experience has taught me that with care to fastener size and length it's possible to get them installed with screws from below which means no exterior bungs to leak. The head of the bolt could crack the wood just as easily as it might crack along the grain with screws rather than the screw ripping out. So either way is fine but probably easier for most people to get a good result by thru-bolting.