What I'm doing with my boat, 2011, before Spring (hopefully)

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 5:33 pm

So I just had my 1968 Pearson Wanderer 30 towed, hauled and blocked yesterday. Why towed? Because the A4 had a leaky head gasket, back in November, I started working on it. I sucked the old oil out and found nearly 2 quarts of water in the crankcase, which, last I checked, is generally considered not a good sign in an internal combustion engine. I spent some time taking various components off the engine and and when I tried to pull the studs to get the head off, one snapped off. So I said "da hell wid it" and concluded I need to yank the engine and do a bench overhaul. It's due anyhow - the engine was installed in 1983 and as far as I (or the previous owner, who owned her 8 years) know, it's never been overhauled.

So this weekend I'll head down to the boatyard and see if I can't get everything disconnected so that the engine is lying in there loose and ready to be lifted. Then next weekend I'll lift it out and lower it into my truck bed to bring it back home.

To pull the engine out, I'll have to remove the bulkhead in front of the engine (which is easy - it's just held on with a few screws). I plan on replacing it anyhow, and the lift-off lid that covers the engine. Both the bulkhead and the lid are dated-looking 1960s plywood with plastic laminate. I want to get more of that classy old wooden boat feel to the interior, so I'm planning on making the bulkhead of solid wood, with raised frame and panels, painted off-white, and the lid will be varnished black walnut, since I have a bunch of that lying about.

I'll also build a new battery box, as the prior owner tossed one together of plywood that doesn't really cover the batteries. He told me he hoped I would build a better one - so I will.

While she's on the hard, I'm also going to remove a couple/three old abandoned through-hulls. Two are from the old marine head that is no longer there. The previous owner replaced it with an AirHead composting toilet. So those old bronze fitting will go, and I'll have them plugged and glassed over. There's another through-hull that I don't know what it was for, but there's nothing connected to it now, so I'm thinking it should go too.

Yesterday I ordered a new mainsail from Sailcare in PA. I had shipped the old one up there, but when I got their worksheet back and spoke to Jerry on the phone, it turns out the sail is so old and needs so much work, it was only another $400 to have him make a brand new one, which he assured me would make a huge difference in how the boat sailed. I figured, what the heck, it's only money, right? It made not sense to spend that kind of money trying to fix up a patched-up, old, worn-out sail, when for just a couple hundred more I could have a brand-new, custom-made one.

I'm going to abandon the old roller reefing and convert to traditional slab reefing. I figure a couple screws strategically placed will fix the boom and prevent it from rolling, and then I'll install a couple padeyes or tracks along the boom (I still need to do the research here) and hang up lazy jacks. It will be nice to be able to drop the main without it falling all over the deck and obstructing the view for whoever is at the tiller.

While she's on the hard I also want to re-bed a bunch of deck hardware. A lot of things on the deck leak a bit when it rains. I also need to re-bed two port lights.

I need to get a new main sail cover made, too. But I'll have to wait until I get the new lazy jacks and reefing system in place, so I know where to make the slits in the cover.

It's never done, is it?

What the boat wants, the boat gets!

earlylight · Post by **earlylight** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 6:05 pm

Sounds like an ambitious work schedule. Please take some pics and post them...You know how much this crowd likes lots of pics to drool over.

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Mon Jan 10, 2011 12:37 pm

I went up to the boatyard yesterday (Sunday) and started the process. It's going to be dirty, long and gruelling, I'm afraid. It sure as hell was cold up there yesterday.

Here she is on the hard:

Here's the engine in its sorry old engine box:

'

The previous owner relocated the manual bilge pump there, but it's never been hooked up. So you could merrily pump away at nothing. I took it off and plan on relocating it back up to the cockpit somewhere.

Here it is after I removed the bulkhead, the manifold, the batteries and the battery box:

Yeesh, huh? A bit of a mess. I'm going to replace that big, rusty old bilge pump with a modern one.

Of course, while trying to keep the prop shaft from turning so I could unbolt the flange from the back of the engine, I managed to drop the pipe wrench in the bilge. I did this immediately after I had the thought, "hmm, I wonder if I should tie a leash onto the pipe wrench in case I dro..... o, crap."

I didn't actually say "o crap", though. I said much, much worse than that.

I couldn't reach it, and won't be able to until the engine is out of there. Fortunately, I managed to get the prop shaft unbolted anyhow.

The engine is now completely disconnected from everything, including the mounting bolts, so it's just sitting in there, waiting to be hoisted out and lowered into my pickup truck for the ride home. I'm hoping I can get to that later this week or Saturday, but it not, it will have to wait another week, because I've got stuff going on most of next week.

I brought the manifold, the alternator mounting bracket and the thermostat housing home, so I could at least work on cleaning those up and painting them.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Mon Jan 10, 2011 1:43 pm

Pretty :)

And away you go! Thanks for the photo update - always love those.

That shallow draft will be killer on the Chesapeake. And you almost have to take her to the Bahamas :D

Rachel

Chris Campbell · Post by **Chris Campbell** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:28 am

Ambitious project - good luck!

That rusty old bilge pump you have there is actually a pretty good one - it's a diaphragm pump, which can suck the bilge dry, and doesn't need to live down there with the bilge water. The nice thing about it being able to suck is that it bring the water up and when it shuts off the water doesn't leak back down into the bilge, as it does with the centrifugal "pusher" pumps. I think if I were you I'd clean that one up, give it a nice coat of paint, and stick with it. You might also choose to have a larger centrifugal pump to move more water in an emergency, but for everyday bilge water removal, the diaphragm pumps are just about ideal.

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:54 am

Rachel wrote:That shallow draft will be killer on the Chesapeake. And you almost have to take her to the Bahamas

From what I can tell, she's spent her entire life on the Chesapeake. I have a few records from the original owner. He was up in Maryland. Then it looks like she went to the Annapolis area, then I don't know, then the guy I bought her from, who kept her up in Kinsale, VA, and now I've got her down south of Deltaville. So she's spent the last 40 years gradually moving slightly farther south down the Chesapeake. I don't know if she's ever been outside the Bay.

The surveyor advised that if I ever decided to take her outside the bay, I probably should replace the standing rigging, or at the very least have it very thoroughly inspected by a professional.

I don't think my insurance currently covers me taking her out of the Bay - and certainly not to the Bahamas.

But I would like to do an ICW trip some day - maybe down to Core/Pamlico Sounds. Right now, I'm scheduled to do a 4-day sail in April, so I'm just hoping to get the engine back together and back in and the mainsail all squared away in time for that. Most of the rest of the stuff I can do in the slip. Other than the through-hulls of course.

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:57 am

Chris Campbell wrote:That rusty old bilge pump you have there is actually a pretty good one ... I think if I were you I'd clean that one up, give it a nice coat of paint, and stick with it.

Yeah, I've been getting that kind of feedback. That approach does align with my general philosophy and habit. As my wife will tell you, I'm big on saving old rusty things and doing total restorations on them.

She's the one who chose my e-mail name "ILikeRust" many years ago, after I kept bringing home all kinds of old, rusty, greasy things. It's just stuck, so now I use it for everything.

My website, which illustrates this pretty well: http://www.ilikerust.com/

I'm hoping I can neaten up all those wires and hoses, but it's a big mess. They're just lying all about. I've never been able to understand how some people get all that so neat and orderly.

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 4:06 pm

So last night I started the process of designing and building a replacement bulkhead. It's going to be frame-and-panel, with raised panels, for more of an old wooden boat feel.

I used the old (wet) plywood bulkhead as a template and traced it on a hunk of 1/4" plywood. Then I laid out the frames and panels within the outline.

Then I took a 2 x 10 that I'm pretty sure is doug fir and ripped and resawed it into all the bits I'll need to do the frames. Tonight I'm hoping to get some more shop time and get the bits I'll need for the panels. Then the joinery begins.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 4:49 pm

That sounds like it will be very attractive, and I can't wait to see how it turns out.

I have a question though: When you say "bulkhead," are you referring to one of the transverse "walls" in the boat (how I think of bulkheads)? Or are you referring to the panel that covers the forward end of the engine compartment? I'm just trying to visualize what you're doing.

Thanks,
Rachel

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:10 pm

Rachel wrote:When you say "bulkhead," are you referring to one of the transverse "walls" in the boat (how I think of bulkheads)? Or are you referring to the panel that covers the forward end of the engine compartment? I'm just trying to visualize what you're doing.

Yes, the vertical panel in front of the engine. See the pic above - I'm referring to that battered panel with the orange battery selector switch and manual bilge pump on it. I don't see why that isn't a bulkhead.

Currently it's 1/2" plywood with that cheesy old plastic, fake wood-grain laminate on it. It's going to be frame and panel with raised panels, painted off-white, when I'm done.

I'm thinking I'll also clean up and paint that battery selector switch something less garish.

The lid, which right now is just a plywood panel with white plastic laminate on it - also pretty battered - I'm going to replace with solid black walnut, varnished. I'll probably do breadboard ends and cleats underneath to keep it from warping. Unless I go crazy and seek out some mahogany - which actually would do a better job of matching the woodwork that's already in there. I could also do butternut, come to think of it - I have a bunch of that lying about, and it's lighter than black walnut in both color and weight. Hmmm.....

I need to find and fix a couple of cabin roof leaks too. So little time!!

Post by **Tim** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 7:12 am

ILikeRust wrote:I'm thinking I'll also clean up and paint that battery selector switch something less garish.

Even better, how about flush-mounting it from behind? Do you have clearance?

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:41 am

Tim wrote:Even better, how about flush-mounting it from behind? Do you have clearance?

Hmmm... interesting thought.

Not where it was. I might relocate it to the upper bulkhead anyhow - closer to the companionway, so it would be easier to lean down, reach in and turn the switch without having to climb down into the cabin.

I'll have to look into that, though - neat idea. I would have to make a cover plate for the back of the switch, to cover all the wires. No big deal.

earlylight · Post by **earlylight** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 11:23 am

If you go the route of flush mounting, you may wish to make the cover plate for the back using Lexan. It allows a quick visual inspection of the back of the switch. On my previous boat, I used a Lexan cover and I believe it may have saved the boat from a fire when I spotted evidence of some serious arcing at one of the connections. It seems that one of the nuts on the switch had become loose (most likely from years of vibrations). BTW, I now check all electrical connections for tightness and corrosion once a year prior to launching. Just my $.02 worth.

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:01 pm

Yeah, the wiring is one of the many things that needs attention. There are some switches and such that are not in enclosures - the surveyor identified that as an issue. I need to put them all in boxes to cover all the connections. Several of them are exposed in the back.

I've also found several abandoned circuits and wires connected to nothing. I want to pull them out and try to de-clutter all that spaghetti mess.

I also would like to try to figure out why the spreader lights don't work. I need to get a way to ascend the mast to do that - which I need anyway to install lazy jacks.

Post by **Tim** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 1:03 pm

Advice: just pull out all the old wiring and related and start fresh. It'll be much easier (and take less time) than attempting to sort out the old mess, and you'll end up with a far better system in the end--and one that works and is reliable and safe.

Chris Campbell · Post by **Chris Campbell** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 1:26 pm

I'll second Tim's suggestion for pulling the whole thing and starting from scratch. Less work than you'd expect - and you'll get 20 years worth of trouble-free operation afterward, not to mention knowing the system inside and out.

Another thing I was going to recommend related to Tim also - check out some of his project logs if you're interested in knowing how people make their engine compartments (and all other hidden spaces, for that matter) look neat and organized. Tim's a master of keeping it neat and organized - when I manage to do half as well I'm quite pleased. (I'm sure you know where to find Tim's project logs, but just in case: http://www.lackeysailing.com/)

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 4:28 pm

Ugh.

I really don't think I'm going to have the time to learn what I'll need to know to do that in time to get the boat relaunched by April, in addition to all the other work I've already decided to get done by then, but I do like the idea.

I don't know that much about wiring a boat - specifically the correct sequence for what gets wired to what. For example, I've seen discussions here and on the Moyer Marine Atomic 4 forum about what should and should not be connected to the coil on the engine and what should and should not be connected to the engine switch, etc.

I do want to replace the engine gauges, as they don't seem to work too well. The engine hours meter is dead for who knows how long, the tachometer shows 1000 rpm when the engine is off, and never goes above 1700 (which might be correct), etc.

I'm going to have to spend a bunch of time figuring out what circuits get connected to what, and then spend a bunch of money buying a bunch of new wiring.

It will be an ongoing project...

cantstopnow · Post by **cantstopnow** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 9:36 pm

I'm going to have to spend a bunch of time figuring out what circuits get connected to what, and then spend a bunch of money buying a bunch of new wiring.

It will be an ongoing project...

You made me chuckle with that one. Yup, It will be. It's like a metaphor for life or something.....

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Sun Jan 23, 2011 6:41 pm

So, just to show I have in fact been doing something and making some progress, here are some pics.

I've been working on the replacement bulkhead that forms the front of the engine box inside the cabin.

Since it's interior woodwork, is going to be painted off white, and is not structural, I figured it didn't really matter too much what kind of wood I used, as long as it wasn't something that was totally not rot-resistant. I took a 2x10 that I'm pretty sure is Douglas fir and ripped it and re-sawed it to make the frames and panels.

Sorry for the lousy picture quality - I used my cell phone and I thought the pictures looked ok on the cell phone screen - but now that I see them here, I realize they look pretty bad. I'll be sure to use my digicam to get some better ones of the next steps and the final finished product.

Anyhow, here is the assembly showing some of the joinery and the panels before I raised the fields:

And here are the flat panels in a dry fit-up:

Here we've got an exploded view showing all the joinery, and I've now raised the panels:

And here is the whole assembly dry-fit, with the raised panels:

I'm quite pleased with how it's coming out so far.

I will take it all back apart to prime and paint all the parts, then glue it all back together. Then I will trim it to final shape to fit the space on the boat. I'm using the old one as a template, but I'll do the final fitting in the boat with a sharp block plane.

I also have started ripping and resawing some 40 year-old, air-dried, rough-sawn black walnut for the lid on the engine box.

I'm scheduled to have the engine hoisted out on Wednesday - gonna play hooky from work!

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Wed Jan 26, 2011 6:02 pm

Well the engine is out.

I decided to go ahead and pay the boatyard to use their crane and experienced guys to hoist my engine out, rather than figure out a DIY solution. I figured this way, if something bad happened, it would be theirs and not mine, and since my time is pretty limited anyhow, it would be much quicker (and safer).

Today was the only day they could fit me in other than two or more weeks away, and I didn't want to lose the next couple weekends to get to work on the engine. So I had to play hooky from work and hang out in the cold and rain. It is a pretty miserable day today.

Anyhow, on with the pics -

Last time I went up and worked on the boat on the hard (which was my first time working on her on the hard), I brought a 6' stepladder, which turned out to be insufficient, so this time I brought a 12' folding ladder, which worked perfectly (although it was cold and rainy).

I took measurements off the engine and very quickly cobbled together this little cradle out of scrap lumber:

I had to wait around for a while, but the guys finally came over with the crane and they moved so fast, I hardly had time to snap any photos.

Continued...

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Wed Jan 26, 2011 6:03 pm

And here is the engine compartment, looking very much like a bloody, empty tooth socket:

YEEECCCCCHHH!!! What a mess. Water, oil, mud, gunk.... blecccch.

Looks like I've got my work cut out for me cleaning up all that mess.

BUT -

Here is the most interesting development.

I have a buddy who has a beat up old sailboat that's been on the hard for a couple years - he bought it as a project boat but now wants to just get rid of it. The reason he bought it was because the old guy he bought it from had put a brand new Volvo diesel engine in it. The story is that the old guy bought the engine, factory brand new, in 1999 or 2000 and installed it in the boat. He then used it for two seasons and then became ill and couldn't use the boat anymore. The boat sat in his yard for five years and then he decided to get rid of it and my buddy bought it for $1,200. The engine cost $7,000 new (my buddy has the receipts) and has less than 200 hours on it. The boat also came with "a whole mess" of sails. According to my buddy, it has lots of sails and they're all good - but he gutted the interior, as he was going to re-do the whole thing.

When I told him I had just pulled my engine and was going to overhaul it, he suggested I take the engine from his boat and offered me his whole boat, engine, sails and all for $1,000. He's currently paying only $65/month to keep it on the hard in a boatyard, and he's just paid for the next three months.

I'm thinking this probably is too good a deal to pass up. I figure if I want to sell my boat in 6 or 8 or 10 years or whatever, it will be easier to sell with a 20 year-old, low-hour Volvo diesel in it than a 40 year-old rebuilt Atomic 4 gas engine with unkown hours on it.

Plus, I figure I can sell my engine (plus all the parts I just purchased from Moyer for my expected rebuild ) to offset the cost, and also, after I yank out the diesel, I can sell his boat for a couple hundred bucks - the sails alone would be worth it. I figure somebody who wants a rough boat to just go bang around in can hang an outboard off the back and take it out for a sail. If I get a couple hundred bucks out of it, the diesel will be practically free.

Of course, it will require me to figure out the connection from the engine to the prop shaft and the engine beds and stuff, but I figure that's all doable - I'm certainly not the first person to repower an old sailboat with a modern diesel engine.

But the more I think about it, the more I'm thinking this might be the way to go.

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Wed Jan 26, 2011 7:00 pm

I'd definitely go for it!

My opinion (and its just that) is that outboards excepted a petrol engine has no place on a yacht, Apart from the obvious fire risk, (You always seem to end up with fuel in the bilge at some point... flammable vapours... no thanks!) they're less economical (less of a problem for you lot in the us of a with your silly low fuel prices :P ) and more prone to problems with damp.

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Wed Jan 26, 2011 8:06 pm

Well, a member of the Atomic 4 forum pointed out that to make the switch, I'll probably need:

1. New fuel tank with fuel return port.
2. New deck fill plate identified 'Diesel.'
3. New throttle and shift control.
4. New throttle and shift cables.
5. New kill cable assembly.
6. New exhaust hot section.
7. Possible bigger exhaust hose and thru-hull.
8. Possible bigger waterlift muffler.
9. New or reworked engine panel.
10. New prop shaft.
11. New prop.
12. Earmuffs:D
13. Clothes pin for your nose:D:D

So I've got myself some researching to do, that's for sure.

Shoalcove · Post by **Shoalcove** » Wed Jan 26, 2011 9:30 pm

I just changed diesels in my boat last year so have a little experience in this area. You will need to change the shifter and exhaust. Shaft and prop too. The kill cables may be with the engine or wired to the panel depending on your engine; my Yanmar has a electric shutoff. All this stuff adds up but I reduced my costs considerably by shopping EBay- I saved about 70% over local costs. The upside is you end up with a new diesel. BTW, mine's quiet and doesn't stink. Whichever way you go you should have a nice reliable setup so you can't really lose!
You're in a great spot there! I was in Deltaville 10 yrs ago while cruising the area and thought it was great. Very friendly folks there! It's cold and snowy here so at least you can play on your boat. Best of luck.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Wed Jan 26, 2011 9:53 pm

Other items for the "maybe" list:

Engine beds, new or re-worked.
Intake seacock (size)
Exhaust seaock (size)

As a former parts person... Volvos were never my favorite. But that doesn't mean they can't be good engines.

In general, as you are getting a feel for, it's much easier/simpler/cheaper to go back in with a reconditioned Atomic Four. Any "gains" in re-sale value would likely be cancelled out in "losses" during installation. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't put in the Volvo if you want to and if it will fit.

On the safety angle: Yes, gasoline can be more volatile than diesel, and yes you have to take sensible precautions. But, I don't believe in the "Atomic Bomb" scare stories because, of all the probably "idiots" out there with Atomic Fours (and Chevies and etc. in powerboats), very very few actually blow up. Again, not something to take lightly, but I don't see it the same way Rich P does. I think a gasoline engine can suitable - it just depends on the engine and why/how it is in the boat. And your use and desires.

Post by **Tim** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 8:00 am

I like diesels, but Volvos don't excite me. And a 10- or 20-year old one isn't going to do much for your resale value anyway. I'm wary of any engine that's spent most of its life sitting--that's often the hardest duty on equipment.

Repowering with diesel can be a good thing, but I think it's only worth it if it's the right engine and right situation. It's too much work and money to accept anything less.

I'm not so much of a diesel-only person that I can't look at your situation and suggest that you're probably way ahead of the game if you stick with the A4. The only reason you're considering diesel at all at this point is because this "great deal" showed up--but is it, really?

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 9:14 am

Yes, exactly.

Upon further consideration and reflection last night, I'm reaching the conclusion that it really is just as well, and in fact likely a better solution, all facts and circumstances considered, to stick with Plan A - i.e., to overhaul the A4 and stick it back where it came from.

I've already got enough work ahead of me without having to cut out the old engine beds and figure out how to build new ones, and all that other stuff.

The A4 is a dirt-simple engine, and I can fix anything on it myself. Not so with a Volvo diesel (or any diesel, for that matter - I are not a diesel mechanic). And it runs smoothly and quietly.

I'm thinking, if it works, why mess with it? And this engine has worked just fine in this boat for the past 27 years. I don't see why it should work fine for another 27 after I give it the full treatment.

Figment · Post by **Figment** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 11:01 am

From the photo, it looks like you either have already successfully pulled most of the head studs, or most of them broke off during removal.

If the former, you have it made. That's a good motor that's been well maintained, a little bit of love will go a long way.

If the latter, you have some very nasty (or expensive) work ahead of you.

Proceed.

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 11:12 am

Figment wrote:From the photo, it looks like you either have already successfully pulled most of the head studs, or most of them broke off during removal.

If I remember correctly there are 17 studs(?)

If that number is correct, I removed 15 without too much fuss, leaving the two that hold the thermostat housing. One of those snapped off. I didn't try the other one.

That is the first thing I will attack, once I get the engine on the bench - getting those last two studs out (torch, Kroil, torch, Kroil...). Then the head comes off, and full disassembly begins.

Shoalcove · Post by **Shoalcove** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 8:22 pm

I seems to me the hardest part of a lot of boat projects is trying to decide the best way to proceed. There are many choices and, often, they all seem to get the job done. I'm sure you'll have a fine setup when you're finished. I'm also sure it will be a lot less coin than changing over to the Volvo. Good luck!

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 12:45 am

I was just reading back through your thread and looking at the photos. I realized that I had meant to comment on your new engine compartment panel: That looks really nice! That's something I have never learned how to do, but it looks quite nice compared to plywood, and super nice compared to old Formica-wood-grain plywood.

Rachel

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:51 pm

Rather than continuing to post everything to two forums, if you're interested in seeing the pics of the progress on my Atomic 4 overhaul, click here. Scroll down to post #74 and then proceed to the next page. I was pretty productive over the weekend. Still lots to do, but I made good progress on the disassembly.

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Sun Feb 06, 2011 10:05 pm

Well I continued with my engine disassembly on Saturday - pulled out the camshaft, lifters, pistons and crankshaft; started cleaning all the crud off the intake and exhaust valves, and disassembled the starter so that I can strip and clean the castings in preparation for paint.

The major castings all need a lot of cleaning, and then stripping down to bare metal in prep for painting. I need to flush all the crud out of the engine block - being that the engine has been raw water cooled, it picked up some muck, crud, yeccchhh over the years. A few passages in the block were completely obstructed - I'm impressed that any water flowed through it at all!! Or at least that it didn't constantly overheat. I'm planning on making the (expensive, but probably worth it) conversion to fresh water cooled.

So Saturday was "work on the engine" day. Today was a really nice day, so I made the 90-minute drive up to the boatyard and removed the two old through-hulls that used to be connected to the marine head. The previous owner took out the old marine head and replaced it with an AirHead composting toilet. So that left the old intake and discharge through-hulls. I figure it's better not to have any more holes below the water line than necessary, particularly ones relying on a valve to keep the sea out, so I'm going to have them filled and glassed over.

Removing the old fittings was ridiculously easy. I used my 4" angle grinder with a metal cutting disc on it to make eight cuts radially, like slicing up a pizza.

Then it was a very simple matter of using a long cold chisel and a hammer to knock those little wedge-shaped segments out - they broke right off pretty easily with a few whacks. Then the fitting fell off inside the hull.

It actually took me longer to find an outlet in the boatyard, run the extension cords 150 feet, plug in and set up my grinder than it did to make the cuts and remove the two through-hulls. I had the whole job done within about 10 minutes after arriving and getting out of my truck.

Since that went so smoothly, I started taking a look at the various deck fittings that are leaking. Whenever it rains, there are drips here and there in the cabin. Pretty much everything on the deck leaks at least a little bit - and a couple leak more.

One of the fittings holding the aft end of a lower lifeline was leaking pretty badly, so I pulled it off and stuck a little bit of caulk in the screw holes on deck, just to keep the rain out until I get a chance to get back up there on a warm day and make the repair properly. I also removed the two grab rails above the V-berth and put caulk in those holes as well. Both grab rails need to be sanded thoroughly and re-varnished anyhow.

The small hatch over the dinette also leaked around the bedding, so I pulled it off, scraped off all the old caulk and re-bedded it using butyl tape. I think it should work much better than the caulk the previous owner had used.

So - making progress...

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 12:43 am

Sounds like you're making hay!

And, when you're taking them out anyway, how nice that the seacocks were not actually affixed to the boat... Nice photos on the "pizza method" for the through hulls.

You may already be planning this, but with your deck fittings leaking you may want to check for any surrounding core damage, and then - either way - overdrill/fill/etc. with thickened epoxy. On some boat models the core stops short of the stanchion bases, but I'm not sure on the Wanderer. There probably is core where the grab rails go through. Like I say, you may already be well aware of this, but since you weren't totally "Oh my gosh!!!" about all the fittings leaking, I wasn't sure if you were thinking along the lines of the core.

Thanks again for the update - much appreciated :) I haven't seen much about the Wanderer (besides the basics), but I've been curious about them, so it's fun to watch you dig in a bit.

Rachel

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:08 am

Yeah, I was planning on doing the overdill/fill routine.

I've become pretty sanguine about the leaking deck fittings, because, well, they're leaking; they've been leaking; there's not much I can do about it until the weather gets warmer and I have time to get up there and focus on the issue.

The surveyor did percussion testing and moisture meter testing all over and found a couple areas of water intrusion on the deck, but nothing too serious - he said just to keep an eye on everything and re-bed the fittings when I could. There is no delamination or soft spots anywhere that I have found. The deck might have some wet core here and there, but it's sound and solid overall. And I've walked all over it.

The spot where the one deck fitting was is a little wonky, leading me to believe that the core is slightly decayed there, but again, I'm kind of like, "oh well, I'll do what I can." I don't plan on opening up the glass and re-coring or anything drastic like that. I figure I'll overdrill, scrap out whatever I can, force in as much thickened epoxy as I can get in there, and then re-bed with butyl tape and a good backer plate. I think that might have been part of the problem - it had no backer plate, so it might have unevenly crushed some of the core.

It's an old boat; I figure to the extent that I can stop ANY leaks, I'm improving it. I would love to get to the point where ALL cabin leaks are gone and it's nice and dry inside.

I discovered I also have to re-bed at least two of the portlights in the main cabin. No biggie; they're easy to do, fortunately.

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:16 am

Rachel wrote:I haven't seen much about the Wanderer (besides the basics), but I've been curious about them

Let me know if you've got any questions about the Wanderer - I've done a tiny little bit of research, and I really like this boat, which is why I don't mind spending the money and doing the work to bring her back and keep her going. I intend to have her for several years, anyhow.

Another project to which I have been devoting some serious thought is pulling up the entire cabin floor, cleaning and painting the bilge, and putting down a whole new floor. The old floor (technically, the sole) really is shot. Because of a couple of the leaks, which clearly have been ongoing for some time, a couple areas of the sole are rotted and spongy, and the whole thing is just worn out and grimy.

A complicating factor in replacing the sole is that part of the dinette is built on top of it. I really don't want to tear out the dinette, because there's nothing wrong with it, just to get the floor out.

Just this morning in the shower (who doesn't do their best thinking in the shower?) I had a small epiphany and I think I've got a plan that should work. It's going to be a big project, and I don't know that I'll tackle it this season - right now I really need to focus on getting the engine taken care of and whatever else is critical to being able to go sailing in April. The cabin sole can wait, when it comes to that. But I do want to do it - it will make the cabin a much more pleasant place.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:24 am

ILikeRust wrote: I would love to get to the point where ALL cabin leaks are gone and it's nice and dry inside.

That is an excellent goal. Even on an old boat, you can eliminate leaks (you can probably tell I hate leaks).

I do hear you about winter though; you can only do so much when your boat is outside and it's freezing out. Plus, you've got the whole project to plan for and I'm sure you have lists and priorities. I'm glad you're including us with your photo updates :)

earlylight · Post by **earlylight** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 1:02 pm

A complicating factor in replacing the sole is that part of the dinette is built on top of it. I really don't want to tear out the dinette, because there's nothing wrong with it, just to get the floor out.

A friend of mine had a similar situation (Dinette furniture built on top of the cabin sole) and he used a Fein oscillating tool using the saw blade which which can cut with a very fine kerf right at the very edge of the dinette leaving the old sole beneath the dinette structure. Then after replacing the removed sole he finished it off with some teak quarter round molding and it looks wonderful. Juswt another way around a possible problem.

Good luck no matter what solution you try. Please keep us posted.

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 1:47 pm

I don't need much of an excuse to buy a new tool, but at this point, there are very few tools I don't already have.

I've seen those Fein tools and similar oscillating mult-tools for a while, but I've yet to find enough justification to buy one. It does seem like a handy little bugger, but by the same token, it also seems like a tool I would not be reaching for all that often, as so many tasks can be done just as well with something else. There are, no doubt, certain jobs in tight quarters where the Fein probably would shine, but my gut feel is that most of the time it would sit in a drawer unused.

I bought a Dremel tool many years ago, thinking how handy it would be, and I never used it.

About 5 years ago, I bought one of those high-speed rotary multi-purpose tools. I have used it for two projects.

Anyhow, yes, that was exactly my plan - to neatly cut the sole up against the side of the dinette. I think I've already figured out in my foggy little haid how I'm going to do it, and how I'm going to make sure it's still adequately supported and how I'm going to put the new sole in.

Again, another big project that might not get done for a while. But when I finally get to it, you know for sure I'll post pics of the whole bloody mess.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 1:56 pm

I have a hard time imagining doing boat projects without my Fein Multimaster, but maybe that's just pointing out my weaknesses with other tools or methods. I borrowed one in 1999 to work on my first deck core project and I was hooked (on the MM not on deck recore projects ;)

On the Wanderer: I'm curious how the hull deck joint is put together, and how the deck core is closed out at the edges. Once upon a time I looked at a Coaster (same boat but with fixed keel) and as I was trying to figure this out, I ended up checking in the anchor locker (due to a molded overhead liner in the main cabin). Although I thought it was an inward-turning hull flange with the deck on top of it, I felt something that just didn't make sense: The overhead (underside of deck) in the anchor locker.... when it got over to the joint area, it stopped and then had a raw edge that made it seem like the deck was *under* the hull lips.

In other words I could reach out and touch a raw 3/8" edge of something, that was the overhead, and that was below everything else (picture if someone took a 3/8" sheet of cardboard and tacked it up on the overhead and it went to within an inch or so of the outer edges). Reaching up to feel the edge it felt dampish. The boat was not a contender for other reasons, but I always wondered if this was the deck core and it wasn't closed out at the perimeter?

So... I'm curious what your Wanderer's joint is like, and do you have that raw edge/panel thingie on the overhead of your anchor locker? (But... it didn't seem like a panel... it seemed like the actual deck....). I might have a photo of this in my "archives" somewhere.

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 2:09 pm

Rachel - I'll have to take a good look and get some pics for you next time I'm up there at the boat, but from what I've seen in the cabin areas, the hull has a flange and the deck is glued and screwed down on top of that. The toe rail screws go through the deck AND the hull flange.

You can find a little info on the Wanderer here.

I'll have to stick my head in the anchor locker with a flash light or head lamp and see what I can see. I've never done that, actually. It looks uncomfortable.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 4:16 pm

I've gotten to the point where I just stick my digital camera into that sort of cranny :)

What it seemed like (it all seemed a bit murky, and since I knew the boat was "out" I didn't want to take up the person's time who was showing it to me) was that the deck sat on top of the hull flange, as you say (with bolts coming through the toerail, deck lip, and hull flange), but that maybe the inner deck skin just ended as it got over to the hull where you would expect it to taper up and "close out" the core before riding up over the hull flange.

But, as I say... I really couldn't tell for sure what was up. I'll see if I can't dig out any photos that make sense. (And of course, on a 40-year-old boat, who knows what one particular owner might have done; not to mention build anomalies.)

Rachel

bigd14 · Post by **bigd14** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 9:07 pm

Must. Have. Multimaster!

Truly one of the best tools ever. I have used it in every conceivable way on the boat, and just brought it home to flush cut some door jambs in-situ for a new floor I will be putting in.

Doug

Chris Campbell · Post by **Chris Campbell** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 9:59 pm

I was skeptical about the MultiMaster but bought one since I was recoring my cabin top. At first (before figuring out how/when to use it) I remained skeptical. Now I use it regularly, both on the boat and off, and feel it has paid for itself several times over. Clearly, I'll add my voice to those who have already recommended it - great tool!

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 10:04 pm

Well at $200 for the most basic Multimaster kit and $400 for the one intended for people fixing up boats, I'm still going to take a pass for now. I'm already spending plenty o' money on the boat right now, and I have plenty o' tools to do pretty much everything I'm doing on the boat - so far...

earlylight · Post by **earlylight** » Wed Feb 09, 2011 12:07 am

I too was skeptical until I finally gave in and purchased the multi-tool made by Dremel which is offered by Lowes at $99. I now consider it to be one of the most versatile tools I own. It has paid for itself many times over and if it ever dies I will gladly replace it without batting an eye. It has saved me many DAYS of work since I bought it.

Post by **Tim** » Wed Feb 09, 2011 7:29 am

ILikeRust wrote:Well at $200 for the most basic Multimaster kit and $400 for the one intended for people fixing up boats, I'm still going to take a pass for now. I'm already spending plenty o' money on the boat right now, and I have plenty o' tools to do pretty much everything I'm doing on the boat - so far...

I agree with you. These multi-tools are handy enough, but far from necessary. I was given a knock-off (Rockwell) as a gift a year or so ago, and I've used it from time time to time, but it still stays in the cabinet most of the time and I reach for it as a last resort, not as a first priority.

Maybe I'm missing out, but I don't quite get all the hype. I do a fair bit of work on boats (cough), yet still don't really feel the love for these supposed "do-all" tools, not for what I do and how I'm used to doing things.

I have to stop far short of a glowing endorsement, but readily admit that the attachments can be helpful in many situations if you happen to have one of these tools. Still, I have to honestly say that f I'd not been given one, I doubt I'd even have one now. But since I do, I have found a few uses for it. I would have gotten everything done without it too, at minimal or no detriment to time or progress.

For how I've figured it worthwhile to use, I've been happy with the performance of the 1/3-of-the-price Rockwell, so I'll limit my endorsement (such as it is) to one of the knock-offs; at that price, it might be handy enough.

Paulus · Post by **Paulus** » Wed Feb 09, 2011 1:54 pm

I own two multimaster (type) tools - one is battery operated, the other hard wired. I would not start any project without having one of the two handy.

A real handy "make-shift" sanding attachment I use is the chisel/blade attachment with a piece of self-stick sandpaper stuck to the bottom - I have rolls of 80 through 320 grit with sticky backing and I find myself sticking a piece on that chisel a lot...

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:40 pm

Headed up to the yard today (aaaagggaaaaiiinnnn... I've been driving up there every weekend....).

On today's to-do list: pull the prop and shaft and then pull the cutless bearing, and once that's done, attack the cabin sole.

Borrowed my neighbor's two-arm puller, because I have only three-arm pullers, which I was concerned would not work too well with a 2-blade prop. I figured I would bring mine along anyhow, just to have them in case.

Well..

I got there, tried his 2-arm puller, but the arms wuz too short to box with that prop. And wooden chew no it, I forgot to bring my pullers. So ze prop, she is still attached to ze shaft and ze shaft, she is steel in ze boat, and zerefore, I did not remove ze cutless bearing. Next weekend.

So I attacked the cabin sole.

It's gone! All gone... it was a surprising amount of work to go from this (and you can see why I am replacing it):

...to this:

And then a bit more work (after some hemming and hawing about whether I had the energy) to proceed to take out the rest in the head and v-berth:

Yeah, the interior of my boat is looking pretty horrific right now. Carnage. Chaos. Destruction.

It's messy, too.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Sun Feb 20, 2011 9:10 pm

Great photos: I love before & after shots. Or rather, before & during.

Were there floors in there too? Or is the sole self-supporting (or whatever you would call it if just spanned from side to side, basically sitting on the edges)? What held it down?

Are you going to re-finish it or build new? If new.... what kind of wood, etc.?

That "blank canvas" showing in your photos now just causes questions to pop up. It's just so interesting seeing how these boats were put together. Like CCArcheology ;)

Oh, and the thing that looks like a pipe... is that something to do with the centerboard? Cable housing?

I love the photo updates, thanks.

Rachel