and of one of the larger “chips” removed:
The initial (unrealistic) hope was that the original nonskid could be repainted, so scraping was done before sanding. Further reading here and elsewhere, and seeing the uncovered nonskid made clear full sanding and recoating is required. Here’s an example of what was under the many coats of paint:
The darkened areas are dirt and mildew and usually coincide with 2-inch or so scar-like cracks in the substrate.
Before sanding, much of the deck hardware has been removed. Portlight removal (for refurbishment and to prepare the cabin trunk for painting) has been discussed elsewhere. As was the case for portlights, screws mounted into the deck or cabin roof were easily removed; those into metal were not. And large nuts and bolts generally were much easy to unscrew than small ones.
I now need to decide how much more deck “hardware,” loosely defined, needs to be removed.
Some items have been decided for me. For example, on both sides of the part of the cabin roof that the companion way hatch slides into there is a stainless U-shaped bracket on a post. It doesn’t help that I don’t know what these brackets are for (rests for the dodger when folded?), but they have paint slopped over them, and I wanted to remove and clean them, and of course do a better paint job than previously applied. I removed many companionway trim pieces before the hatch could be slid out, only to realize that nuts securing the bracket bolts are well inside the cover (ten inches?) and in a space too narrow to fit a socket and extension handle. There probably are extra-long open end wrenches that would do the job, but now I’ve resigned only to clean the bracket in situ and then mask-off for painting.
Here’s a picture of the (barely visible) bracket and exposed companionway:
a clearer shot of the starboard bracket (looking forward):
and the starboard inside of the companionway hatch cover, with inaccessible nuts highlighted:
Difficulties in removing the brackets, together with my slow and imperfect portlight removal, has caused extreme caution (read “paralysis”) in any further hardware removal.
For example, the engine hatch and hatch frame were removed in order to remove a shabby plexiglass engine instruments cover:
but I now plan to leave the main and forward cabin hatch bases:
in place, refinishing them with stripper and sandpaper before deck painting.
The toerail is in decent shape, so I plan to refinish it in place also. Gennie tracks sit a bit above the rail:
and if not stubbornly through-bolted, I plan to remove them before refinishing the rails.
The previous picture also shows one of the secondary winches. Here are a couple more:
South Coast chrome is largely gone, and if feasible (any opinion?), main and secondary winches would look much better rechromed. Also it’s clear the teak winch base needs refinishing. (For the curious—the blue ring at winch-top is a retro-fitted attempt at self-tailing.)
But to date I’ve not succeeded at winch removal. Some of the nuts visible are wedged tightly against adjoining fiberglass that prevents their unscrewing. And after removing those that I can, the winch and base still seem securely fastened. Absent advice/encouragement, I’m now thinking to leave them in place, and finish the winch bases and paint around them as best I can.
Similarly, the coamings aren’t wonderful--note the crack on the forward inside port one:
But they are reasonably solid, at least for the near term (and sufficiently difficult to replace to make “near term” a long one…). So again, the plan is to strip and sand the coamings in place, and remove only the quarter-round trim strip:
if easily feasible.
Elsewhere in the cockpit, a couple light metal sheets closing off previously used holes in one side of the footwell have been removed, with the intention of glassing in the holes.
Also removed was this bronze “horn”:
From its backside, it’s clear it once was connected to something , but now it only opens to the port cockpit locker, in the vicinity of the cranking battery and diesel. In spirit of filling unneeded holes, I plan to glass in this opening also (unless persuaded otherwise).
Here’s another hole I probably will fill in:
After removing the bronze screw-in cover plate it occurred to me that, although narrow, perhaps the hole is intended as access to the manual bilge pump below. Initially I thought an access hole was redundant with the locker cover immediately aft it, but of course the hole could give access to the pump while keeping the locker closed. (Will check this at the boat.)
Elsewhere around the cockpit: the gauges etc:
The black rectangle is an old phone plug and I assume can be removed and filled in. The knotmeter is knarly (needle paint peeling) but works, as do the depth gauge and (covered) autopilot. The two center dials are for apparent wind. Presumably the upper is the newer and the other can be removed and filled in, but is there a way to test the gauges first? Should remaining gauges be removed before painting or would masking suffice?
Then there’s the pedestal and binnacle:
The footwell is pretty crowded with them in place, but it’s a confined and complicated space below also:
and I’d prefer to avoid difficult reassembly. Any comment?
The emergency tiller cover forward the binnacle probably can be removed without too much trouble:
In this pic, you also can see the autohelm drive, the VERY THIN box that covers it, and the hot water heater forward. All this makes a crowded port locker. Getting to the underdeck rear of the boat via this locker requires my 6’4” self first to head under aft the locker, and then bring in my feet. Exiting is even more fun…
Eyebrows. Some previous pictures included the cabin eyebrows. Here’s another:
Initially I planned to remove the eyebrows for refinishing and cleaner painting of the cabin trunk, but doing so would require digging into cabin inner walls to locate screw heads, and possible breakage during removal. Now the thinking is to do as good as possible in place. Again, any comment?
Lastly, the stanchions. Here too I planned a clean removal before painting. Now I don’t think it’s worth effort required. All stanchion bases are solid and secure, and because of that moisture entry doesn’t seem a problem. Removing them would not be easy and require a fair amount of inner woodwork removal. Without stanchions of course there are no lifelines, and the decks are 10+ feet in the air. Taking them out would require, working aft: pulpit nuts are accessible from the anchor locker, next requires some panel removal from the v-berth, next over a cabinet portside and behind fireplace starboard requires ceiling removal, next over upper berths also requires ceiling removal, next (gate stanchions) also requires ceiling removal portside and removal (destruction?) of the chart storage shelf starboard, next is over the cockpit locker mounted fuel tanks and requires their removal. While underside nuts for some of the stanchions already are accessible and more will be for required chainplate work (to be discussed elsewhere), I’m reluctant to give up security provided by lifelines by removing any stanchions. Comments?
One more, the foredeck:
With another set of hands I should be able to remove the two padeyes and hawsehole, and intend to.
In sum, I’ve come to near standstill on paint preparation, unsure of how to proceed. I would like to put a good finish on the decks. I also would like to ensure I finish the task. Any advice will be appreciated.
Thanks, Brian
