Painting a rusty engine
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Painting a rusty engine
My Atomic 4 has a great deal of rust on it. I'll post a photo that will give you some idea in just a bit. I need to paint what is accesible now, while the motor is still in the boat. When I pull the motor for a rebuild, I'll repaint the whole thing.
I believe the paint that remains is original. I know that Universal painted some early model A4's green and that's the color mine is. Or was. Or should be.
Sound gross? It's actually not too bad and I've seen worse colors. Here's one that's close:
I cannot find a similar color anywhere that isn't a spray paint. Given the quarters, I want more control than spray provides (if possible; if not, I suppose I could tape off and spray). Does anyone have any ideas? I could go with another color, but the starter and alternator, which are newer, are green and look fine. I really don't want a multi-colored engine. Also, what should I use for a primer?
I believe the paint that remains is original. I know that Universal painted some early model A4's green and that's the color mine is. Or was. Or should be.
Sound gross? It's actually not too bad and I've seen worse colors. Here's one that's close:
I cannot find a similar color anywhere that isn't a spray paint. Given the quarters, I want more control than spray provides (if possible; if not, I suppose I could tape off and spray). Does anyone have any ideas? I could go with another color, but the starter and alternator, which are newer, are green and look fine. I really don't want a multi-colored engine. Also, what should I use for a primer?
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I can't imagine trying to paint an engine with anything other than a spray can. Way too many nooks, crannies, tight spots, and too much potential for disgusting sloppy messes.
I would definitely recommend taking a few minutes to cover over the other parts of your engine room and then paint with spray can. To me, this seems like far less effort, and with a better end result. Those little aerosol cans really aren't that bad from a control perspective, but there's plenty of overspray.
The A4 that came out of Glissando was green also. A nice "John Deere green" might fit the bill. I prefer brightly-colored engines myself, so I think the green is good. I actually think CAT yellow is a great engine color. Have a little fun with your paint job, and make that engine yours!
I would definitely recommend taking a few minutes to cover over the other parts of your engine room and then paint with spray can. To me, this seems like far less effort, and with a better end result. Those little aerosol cans really aren't that bad from a control perspective, but there's plenty of overspray.
The A4 that came out of Glissando was green also. A nice "John Deere green" might fit the bill. I prefer brightly-colored engines myself, so I think the green is good. I actually think CAT yellow is a great engine color. Have a little fun with your paint job, and make that engine yours!
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Tractor Supply sells .....wait for it.....tractor paint. In every color of the tractor rainbow....aerosol....quarts....you name it. Good stuff too.
I am sure you could find something there.
Ric
http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pc ... oductID=52
I am sure you could find something there.
Ric
http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pc ... oductID=52
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tractor paint
They also sell a hardener that works like a dream, the implement paint is very cheap, right around $20 a gallon, the hardener runs $7 or $8 a can, like I said a very hard and scratch resistant paint with the hardener I use it a lot on 4x4 trucks, lower body panels, frames, axles, and engines/transmissions.
pretty much any 'tractor' color is available, along with white and black.
also has a great shelf life.
ken
pretty much any 'tractor' color is available, along with white and black.
also has a great shelf life.
ken
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That is a downside to the Yanmar... I liked the color on the Vetus you put in the daysailor.Tim wrote:I prefer brightly-colored engines myself, so I think the green is good. I actually think CAT yellow is a great engine color.
Nathan
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Yes, the metallic gray/silver Yanmar color is not the most interesting. It wouldn't keep me from buying another Yanmar, though!
The Vetus engine in the daysailor was very close to CAT yellow, but a little more orange-y.
The Vetus engine in the daysailor was very close to CAT yellow, but a little more orange-y.
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When you are done spraying you could paint the engine compartment with white bilgecote. That would erase the overspray and the bright white does wonders for making the area look better.OK then, I'll spray the sucker
Something in the back of my head is reminding me that painting your engine in a color other than the traditional manufacturer's color is a violation of professional ethics. The color is like a trademark and represents the reputation of the manufacturer. Professionals should stand on their own reputation and not try to mimic others'.
Or some such blather. Do what you want of course. There are very few people that know about that ethical code, let alone care.
-Britton
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Not to mention brighter for when you actually need to get in there to work on the beast. Somehow being shoehorned into a tiny white space is preferable to a tiny dingy oily dank space....bcooke wrote:That would erase the overspray and the bright white does wonders for making the area look better.
Nathan
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Of course, with A4s being found in red, green, blue, gray, and that newer coppery-bronze color, the field is pretty wide open.bcooke wrote:Something in the back of my head is reminding me that painting your engine in a color other than the traditional manufacturer's color is a violation of professional ethics. The color is like a trademark and represents the reputation of the manufacturer. Professionals should stand on their own reputation and not try to mimic others'.
I really don't think choosing an interesting spray can color for one's personal engine is any sort of attempt to mimic another's engine manufacturing reputation.
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One engineer I knew who built his own sailboat from scratch in his backyard claimed that the best color for an engine is white. In fact he had his brand new diesel re-painted white before installation. His reasoning was that any leaks, be they oil, coolant, whatever, would stand out against a white backgroubd and thus could be attended to quickly.
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That is because your mind is not as twisted as mine is. I think I have heard old time mechanics grumble about it but that is hardly evidence for an ethics debate. In any event, it would only be a concern from grumpy old mechanics who have been in the business for too long. Did Universal really paint their engines in all those colors or is that aftermarket/shade tree mechanic stuff?I really don't think choosing an interesting spray can color for one's personal engine is any sort of attempt to mimic another's engine manufacturing reputation.
I think any good clean color is a vast improvement and will show up any leaks pretty quickly. Curiously, black is often known as the color that shows dirt/oil the quickest. I definitely wouldn't be painting a new engine just for better color though.
Jason, I wouldn't worry about priming the engine first. Especially as you are thinking of pulling it because you are probably going to redo the paint at that point again anyway. Most auto parts stores have paints specifically designed for engines and come in original manufacturer's colors (i.e. Ford blue, Universal gold, etc.) I bet if you stopped by a John Deere dealership/parts shop they would have some paint you could use.
I can't remember painting an engine before but I am pretty sure priming is not a part of the process. Just make sure the engine is as clean as humanly possible (which should be a standard goal anyway IMHO).
Once the engine is painted you should send in a picture to Moyer. They are starved for monthly pinups.
-Britton
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Al,
I started with a variety of wire wheels on a cordless drill and a couple wire brushes of different sizes. I used a very cheap paintbrush to remove the rust residue. Once the large, scaling bits of rust were removed, I sanded the remainder with 60 and 120 grit sandpaper. I then cleaned the whole engine with soap and water, using a scotchbright pad.
That's right everyone, I'm now an expert on the subject. Here are a few photos below. I'll post a finished product photo when I wrap up the project tomorrow.
I cleaned the engine and primed it with the Rustoleum Heavy Rust Primer. I then painted it John Deere Green with tractor paint. I do not share Britton's view of retaining the manufacturer's color scheme in the interest of proprietary propriety. If anyone confuses my boat for a farm implement, the day may go poorly for them. :)
BEFORE:
DURING:
ALMOST AFTER:
I started with a variety of wire wheels on a cordless drill and a couple wire brushes of different sizes. I used a very cheap paintbrush to remove the rust residue. Once the large, scaling bits of rust were removed, I sanded the remainder with 60 and 120 grit sandpaper. I then cleaned the whole engine with soap and water, using a scotchbright pad.
That's right everyone, I'm now an expert on the subject. Here are a few photos below. I'll post a finished product photo when I wrap up the project tomorrow.
I cleaned the engine and primed it with the Rustoleum Heavy Rust Primer. I then painted it John Deere Green with tractor paint. I do not share Britton's view of retaining the manufacturer's color scheme in the interest of proprietary propriety. If anyone confuses my boat for a farm implement, the day may go poorly for them. :)
BEFORE:
DURING:
ALMOST AFTER:
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Boy, no messing around there in the South is there?! Talk one day, Do the next. Looks good.
Spraying with brake cleaner will make the oil run off if that is all you need but otherwise I would say clean the engine just like Jason did. My experience with brake cleaner is that it doesn't cause a problem with paint but your mileage my vary...
I mention the color thing only for a balance in the discussion, not to impose restrictions. Without opposing points of view this forum would turn into a cheerleader rally. Can you see me sporting Pom-Poms in the forum colors?...
As for farm implements. I will remember not to make the comparison but personally I have a soft spot for tractors. When I have done everything else I wouldn't mind doing a restoration project on an old tractor. Last year I saw a portable saw mill pull into the yard powered by an A4 and the operator said it was the perfect powerplant for his operation. So no farm implements but a logging/milling tool maybe.
-Britton
Spraying with brake cleaner will make the oil run off if that is all you need but otherwise I would say clean the engine just like Jason did. My experience with brake cleaner is that it doesn't cause a problem with paint but your mileage my vary...
I mention the color thing only for a balance in the discussion, not to impose restrictions. Without opposing points of view this forum would turn into a cheerleader rally. Can you see me sporting Pom-Poms in the forum colors?...
As for farm implements. I will remember not to make the comparison but personally I have a soft spot for tractors. When I have done everything else I wouldn't mind doing a restoration project on an old tractor. Last year I saw a portable saw mill pull into the yard powered by an A4 and the operator said it was the perfect powerplant for his operation. So no farm implements but a logging/milling tool maybe.
-Britton
- Tim
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Me too!bcooke wrote:...personally I have a soft spot for tractors...
Interestingly, the Yanmar engine in my John Deere is a close cousin to the marinized QM/GM series that are so common out there. Air cooled, of course, but generally the same engine.
And the Yanmar in the tractor is painted black.
Jason: the engine looks great. Now, you just need to detail the front and hand paint the "Universal" lettering on the flywheel. JD yellow would be mighty fine...
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FWIW, I understand Britton's point about engine colors. I believe that a professional engine rebuilder should always use the original colors for a given engine, even if it's only as a courtesy rather than for any "formal" reasons. Certainly the engine colors are not actually trademarked in most cases; if they were, of course we wouldn't be able to buy the colors at the store.
But for individuals, it's clearly a different situation.
I agree that white makes all fluid leaks most visible--good if you want to see them. Of course, a white engine needs a crew of 2 to keep it clean and polished, like in the big mega yachts. Otherwise, simple belt dust will render it intolerable in about a week.
But for individuals, it's clearly a different situation.
I agree that white makes all fluid leaks most visible--good if you want to see them. Of course, a white engine needs a crew of 2 to keep it clean and polished, like in the big mega yachts. Otherwise, simple belt dust will render it intolerable in about a week.
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Well, this little project was pretty straightforward. Plus it was about 10 degrees too cool for pleasant sailing.Boy, no messing around there in the South is there?! Talk one day, Do the next. Looks good.
I just might.Now, you just need to detail the front and hand paint the "Universal" lettering on the flywheel. JD yellow would be mighty fine...
If it aint broke...whoa, is that the original 12v generator? You're a more patient man than I!!!
Both the rewiring of the whole boat and the painting of the bilge and engine compartment are on the shortlist.You know, re-wiring the engine would sure compliment the new paint job and would make a nice afternoon project...
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oh, my generator ain't broke either. it's sitting on a shelf, strong as they day it was made. The problem was the regulator. Free though they were, I grew weary of constantly replacing blown regulators.
That might have had something to do with the fact that the regulators had been sitting on a shelf in my buddy's shop since christ was a corporal, I dunno.
That might have had something to do with the fact that the regulators had been sitting on a shelf in my buddy's shop since christ was a corporal, I dunno.