I have a bulkhead with some damage from leaking chainplates. I would really rather not replace the entire thing. Is it possible to epoxy in replacement wood? how?
Jimmy
Bulkhead repair
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- Almost a Finish Carpenter
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- Master of the Arcane
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On your Challenger? Aren't Challenger chainplates encapsulated in the hull layup? If so, then you're asking about a cosmetic rather than a structural repair, if the offensive area is not too big.
Butt joints affixed with epoxy might not be so bad if you could get the repair material planar with the original. The inevitably rough, imperfect join could be camouflaged in several ways: spline on the two faces, new veneer from onto the existing and covering the whole of the repair. Obviously much easier if there's working room. Alternative might be to lap the new and a smidge of the existing with a thin piece of plywood veneered to match the existing. (A PO did this in ours and you'd have to be picky to complain, given the location and the extent.)
Scarpfing for strength runs the work up but the cosmetics are the same.
Butt joints affixed with epoxy might not be so bad if you could get the repair material planar with the original. The inevitably rough, imperfect join could be camouflaged in several ways: spline on the two faces, new veneer from onto the existing and covering the whole of the repair. Obviously much easier if there's working room. Alternative might be to lap the new and a smidge of the existing with a thin piece of plywood veneered to match the existing. (A PO did this in ours and you'd have to be picky to complain, given the location and the extent.)
Scarpfing for strength runs the work up but the cosmetics are the same.
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- Master of the Arcane
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We can all speculate what your damage is and make lots of different recommendations, many of which will prove useless for lack of information.
Figment wrote:
A more detailed description of the situation will garner more detailed assistance. Photos man, PHOTOS!!!!
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
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Are the bulkheads even tabbed in at all, or just mechanically fastened to the flanges molded into the hull and deck liners? I don't see any tabbing in the photos, but I can't see the lower (bottom) edge, where the bulkhead meets the hull.
If you can remove the whole bulkhead easily, as in the case of a mechanically-fastened one, then I'd simply replace the whole piece--easier, quicker, and better than trying to fix and patch.
If you can remove the whole bulkhead easily, as in the case of a mechanically-fastened one, then I'd simply replace the whole piece--easier, quicker, and better than trying to fix and patch.
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- Master of the Arcane
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Nice looking interior. Teak veneer plywood will be available, unlike our Makore.
Is that a patch already? A doubler on the bulkhead? If you're content with the appearance, replace the doubler in the salon but consider using carriage bolts from the show side. Add a thin covering patch on the head side to conceal your repair work. Has to be thin to not move the chainplate too much. Use acorn nuts on the head side.
Presuming that the original design was a 3/4" plywood bulkhead, the adequately-bolted (glued and bolted?even solely glued?) doubler is fine - adequately bolted to sound plywood, that is. The bulkhead can be patched with whatever comes to hand, including fibered epoxy, since it will be concealed.
If you're interested in an original appearance then wholesale removal and replacement ...
Is that a patch already? A doubler on the bulkhead? If you're content with the appearance, replace the doubler in the salon but consider using carriage bolts from the show side. Add a thin covering patch on the head side to conceal your repair work. Has to be thin to not move the chainplate too much. Use acorn nuts on the head side.
Presuming that the original design was a 3/4" plywood bulkhead, the adequately-bolted (glued and bolted?even solely glued?) doubler is fine - adequately bolted to sound plywood, that is. The bulkhead can be patched with whatever comes to hand, including fibered epoxy, since it will be concealed.
If you're interested in an original appearance then wholesale removal and replacement ...