Tickboards/scribing/spiling

[KITTIEanME]

Hi all, I am getting myself ready to install a partial bulkhead back into my Kittiwake. The previous owner removed it.
I like to try new approaches to woodworking and am curious to know if anyone on the forum has used one of the methods shown at the "Practical Sailors" site that involves cutting a 1 1/2" hole with a hole saw and using this disk to roll the outlines of the hull onto plywood to fit the new partition.

It seems to be a straighforward method for scribing but I don't know?

I have searched the archives and found some info(using a washer) and other methods. If someone here has used the hole saw method is it as easy as it looks?

By the way I have used the archives and obtained a lot of great tips such as using hot glue to hold construction foam in place while installing it to the sides and bottom, they are a treasure trove of info so thanks for keeping them. TOM

[Hirilondë]

For bulkheads and any other plywood component I like to make full sized patterns using strips of doorskin plywood. I scribe, cut and fit the strips to portions of the space I am making the pattern for and glue the pieces together with hot glue. This gives me a full size skeleton pattern in place and I know if fits, or I can correct the portion that doesn't.

I use spiling for making replacement planks on wooden boats. I have a mini angle duplicator I made out of pieces of hack saw blade and mark the angle of the adjacent plank all along the pattern so that I can get the new plank shaped very close to a fit before I even try it in place.

You should really try any of the methods you have read about that seem good to you. Only through trying them can you really evaluate what works best for you.

[Zach]

I have one of these: http://www.m-powertools.com/products/pe ... t-butt.htm

It comes in handy... A little more precise than a plywood disc, which I have done. The only thing that sucks about doing this, is you have to warp a batten down and screw it in place on your template, then reverse the procedure to get a full scale copy. Not a big deal, but its another step. I use this thing for scribing counter tops, and copying curves of stuff like deck beams.

On a wood boat with an existing bulkhead: I make a bird cage like what Hirlonde talks about. I cut out 1-2 inch wide strips of 1/8th inch door skins, or cheapo luan that I rip on a table saw... Set the blade high and let it arc up and do whatever it needs to if you don't have an offcut table. then stick it to the bulkhead with hot glue. Very fragile, but if you leave the pencil line screws are only needed to keep the plywood from squeaking. (Grin... not really, but it takes a 3lb mini sledge to fully seat out!)

With no bulkhead, i like to hang them on the side of a frame. This is pretty self explanatory... Set a post that will be the outer edge that is plumb, attach a big piece of plywood to the face, and use a tick stick or joggle stick to copy the curve. I go to the hull, then subtract a little so the outside edge doesn't need the same bevel as the hull.

On a big bulkhead that is framed in the middle and plywooded on both sides, I use two sheets of plywood with the seam running parallel the sole. This way it slips in around the clamp boards, doing the lower one it carries the top. I scribe a line across the face of the internal framework, make one half with a bird cage... drop in the plywood with a screw or two, then make the top. You may want to let the birdcage hang an 1/8th or so off the full size plywood sheet on your first one. If not, and you leave your pencil lines it takes a big hammer to get things to go together.

On a glass boat:

The tabbing throws off your first template if you are recreating one that already exists. On a small bulkhead in a glass boat I make a template out of brown butchers paper, cutting and taping down as I go. If I'm feeling lazy, I'll grind the tabbing off to the hull and make a perfect copy of what is there.

It's more steps to do all your template's with the bulkhead in, than it is to rip it out and set up a tick stick/joggle stick and be done with it.

If the gap in between two bulkheads is small and meant to have a doorway later... I take a few pieces of angle iron and clamps to hold things square while the goop sets up. Cut a few 2x4's or whatever scrap is handy to act as a gauge. One will be plumb and square to the other, particularly if you can't one of the angle iron pieces at an angle.

For planks:

I plane the board to thickness, and rip off the bottom side square. I use a big band saw. I drop it on the bench, walk down with with a planer to take off the tooling marks. Carry the plank to the boat, I measure and mark the length plank needed. I plunge a sawzall in on each end, and cut the end of the existing planks square. Hold a tri-square up to the gap and mark it... Center on a frame preferably so you have something to work against right from the start. I don't like butt blocks, they rot out.

I take a circle saw and a speed square and lop off the factory end to make sure it is square on one end. Lop the other end 2-3 inches longer than it measures.

Flip it so the heart is toward the hull so if it wants to warp it warps the board tighter rather than standing up the corners... same as if you were building a deck.

I measure out by the foot, or 6 inches depending on how much change there is in the height of the opening. Mark this on the new plank.

Now take a bevel gauge and measure the bevel between the side of the plank above the hole, and the bottom of the same plank. Mark the end of your new plank with said bevel.

Carry plank to bandsaw. Take a batten and warp it along the points you marked, adjust the table on the saw to the bevel... cut it.

Now pass a power plane across it to take out the tooling marks and the pencil line. Take a touch more off the inside corner than the outside, and lightly bevel it.

Take the plank over to the boat, lay the front of the plank in to the hole. If you are doing it solo, hang the other end in a rope sling off the staging, or whatever is handy. Hammer the plank forward. Can't two square drive stainless screws forward into the frame. Now walk down the plank with a 3-5 pound hammer and smack it till it seats out. Mark the board where it overlaps the old plank, pry off the hull and cut it with a skill saw.

Pry it back open, apply goop... screw/nail/fasten...

Takes longer to explain how to do it than it does to put one in her. Plane the board fat, sink the screws/nails whatever in... Come back with a 36 grit hard sanding disc on a grinder and make saw dust till it is flat and true to the surrounding wood.

[Quetzalsailor]

For those who would not know where to get doorskins, Luan underlayment from the Despot is good for the purpose and cheap. Also good for trying the results of your ticking w/o spending much good money or wasting expensive materials.

Consider what has to fit well and what can be clear. 'Lousy' fits behind tabbing don't count as lousy. Just fill the gap with filled epoxy as you put the tabbing in.

If what you're fitting to is more straight than boat-shaped, a batten of handy length and thickness (say, 20" long, 3/4" wide and 3/16" thick) sharpened to about a 1/4" dia 'point' at the business end and fitted with several pencil point holes works well (several so you can cover the amount of excursion the shape has). Relatively easy to hold the batten at a constant angle and allow it to follow the shape while holding the pencil.

If you don't like the tic-stick method, try fitting short segments (say, 11" x 3") of cardboard and taping them to a piece of the underlayment that's been mounted in position and is cut well clear. Be sure to number, mark, as well as tape, the position of the segments.

[KITTIEanME]

Thanks to all for the information. The wealth of
knowledge and experience contained in this forum is like no other. I have saved the responses and will be trying some of them to increase my knowledge. ZACH, for $25.00 the tool is worth buying. I also like the hack saw blade idea and will try making one when I get some extra time , also the cardboard idea. I have a piece of 1/4" luan I am using for pattern making. Once again THANKS! TOM

PS: I,ll try to get some pictures to share as I learn.