Figure somebody buys an old boat. Everything works, but everything on the boat could use some attention. Where do you begin?
They can't do it all at once. Instead, they can only devote 4-6 weekends a year to boat work, part of which is eaten up by ordinary yearly maintenance.
They're not crossing Oceans, just daysailing and an occasional overnighter.
Some random thoughts in no particular order:
Thru-hulls: The seacocks are old, but still turn and nothing leaks. Should you just change old hoses and clamps for now?
Chainplates: I would pull them and check where they pass through the deck. Also check the areas they're attached to.
Rigging: No obvious cracks or meathooks, but the rig is of indeterminate age and shows a bit of rust. Give it another year or two until you can pull the stick and take care of all the mast projects?
Rudder: A major undertaking. Is pink bronze a reason to panic? What are some signs of impending failure?
Core rot: Is this really an important safety issue? Its not like the boat is going to sink or your foot is going to go through the deck. The damage is already done. It will spread, but how fast? Does anybody know? Is there much value in rebedding hardware in the soggy parts until you get around to the core job?
Hull/deck joint: Are leaks just annoying, or a serious priority. I wouldn't expect the boat to pull apart like a zipper under normal usage.
Lines and blocks: I've had some lines and blocks break over the years, but it only meant that I had to drop the sail. I'd think about replacing an old furling line if you have one, also the reefing lines, then maybe the halyards. Certainly replace old docking or mooring lines.
What do you think? What other areas should they concentrate on?
Remember you're performing triage with a limited budget for time and materials. After you've fixed whatever is obviously broken or about to break, where do you go next?
I realize this approach might not be "proper." Could even be risky. But its all most people can manage. They usually waste their initial enthusiasm on cosmetics.
The lazy guide to boat renovation
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I would submit that if keeping a boat is beyond the maintenance abilities or desires of an owner, then the owner needs a smaller, less complex boat. When an owner can't afford enough time, money, or energy to devote to keeping a boat in shape, then both the owner and the boat suffer. If they can't handle, say, a Triton, then get a Rhodes 19. They'll be on the water more and ultimately have more fun.
To answer your questions, though, safety items come first, of course. It's one thing to take out a boat with peeling paint. It's quite another to go sailing on a boat with structural or rigging deficiencies.
Beyond that...well, I can't help going back to my orginal premise. If the current boat cannot be properly maintained, it's time to downsize. Prioritizing only the most critical problems isn't acceptable.
To answer your questions, though, safety items come first, of course. It's one thing to take out a boat with peeling paint. It's quite another to go sailing on a boat with structural or rigging deficiencies.
Beyond that...well, I can't help going back to my orginal premise. If the current boat cannot be properly maintained, it's time to downsize. Prioritizing only the most critical problems isn't acceptable.
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Off the top of my head, which is actually the dumbest part, I would say:
priority one:
question your selection of boat before you purchase it.
priority two:
Keep the water out of the vessel.
priority three:
ensure continued manouverability of vessel.
Therefore:
resist the urge to buy the big junker rather than the working small boat.
$5,000 can buy a sweet 22 foot boat and a worthless 32 foot boat.
correct all below waterline aspects first and to the highest level possible.
correct all aspects related to steering the boat regardless of motive power.
correct all systems of motive power: inboard motor, sails, oars, outboard.
If the inboard engine does not work I would yank it, or replace it. If you do pull the engine, get all the toxic things like extra batteries and diesel and any oil off the boat. Use one sealed deep cell battery, and keep it accessable. If the jalopie boat were to lose it's rig and sink, or lose it's rudder and sink, the environmental damage to the surrounding ecosystems will be greatly reduced if there was no engine inside. The goverment agencies that clean these things up will most likely charge you less if there are less toxics. Diesel spills are taken very seriously.
If you sail on a small lake or river in a temperate area with little or no commercial traffic, if you know how to swim, and your boat is relatively free of toxic things then sinking is mostly embarrasing, and expensive. As it should be. Sinking a boat that you own is to me a failure of planning. In other circumstances sinking interferes with shipping, it pollutes precious resources, and it causes emergency service personal to put themselves at risk. I suppose ones own drowning and that of any passengers would just be part of the joy of sailing on a extreme budget. I would draw a line at messing up mother earth just to save some dough
R.
priority one:
question your selection of boat before you purchase it.
priority two:
Keep the water out of the vessel.
priority three:
ensure continued manouverability of vessel.
Therefore:
resist the urge to buy the big junker rather than the working small boat.
$5,000 can buy a sweet 22 foot boat and a worthless 32 foot boat.
correct all below waterline aspects first and to the highest level possible.
correct all aspects related to steering the boat regardless of motive power.
correct all systems of motive power: inboard motor, sails, oars, outboard.
If the inboard engine does not work I would yank it, or replace it. If you do pull the engine, get all the toxic things like extra batteries and diesel and any oil off the boat. Use one sealed deep cell battery, and keep it accessable. If the jalopie boat were to lose it's rig and sink, or lose it's rudder and sink, the environmental damage to the surrounding ecosystems will be greatly reduced if there was no engine inside. The goverment agencies that clean these things up will most likely charge you less if there are less toxics. Diesel spills are taken very seriously.
If you sail on a small lake or river in a temperate area with little or no commercial traffic, if you know how to swim, and your boat is relatively free of toxic things then sinking is mostly embarrasing, and expensive. As it should be. Sinking a boat that you own is to me a failure of planning. In other circumstances sinking interferes with shipping, it pollutes precious resources, and it causes emergency service personal to put themselves at risk. I suppose ones own drowning and that of any passengers would just be part of the joy of sailing on a extreme budget. I would draw a line at messing up mother earth just to save some dough
R.
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Have the boat surveyed and submit the survey to your insurance company -- the surveyor will help you establish the "to do" list and the insurance company will help you prioritize :-)
Regards,
Regards,
Tim Allen -- 1980 Peterson 34 GREYHAWK
Harborfields Housekeeping Cottages, West Boothbay Harbor, Maine
Sailors for the Sea, a new voice for ocean conservation
Harborfields Housekeeping Cottages, West Boothbay Harbor, Maine
Sailors for the Sea, a new voice for ocean conservation