Epoxy gum?

[george]

Is there any sort of product that, like chewing gum, you could mold into screw holes to prevent water intrusion?

I reglassed my hull deck joint, no problem there.

I put my wood toe rail back on, which was a major pain.

Sadly, under the toe rail there were several screw holes drilled by the previous owner. I am not sure why. Foolishly, I did not epoxy those closed.

Now, when I hose the deck down and water builds up on deck the water seeps under the wood and into these screw holes.

All the holes are in a 6 foot section on each side that drip directly into the cabin cabinets under the portlights on my Alberg 30.

I was thinking I could get "epoxy gum" and stop the water.

I cannot find any epoxy gum. Does it exist?

Or should I take the toe rail off and do it right? I think I know the answer, but sure would like to know if anyone has heard of something like this mythical gum I reference.

Thanks for any tips.

[Tim]

I hate to tell you this, but if water's getting under your toerail at all--never mind going through old screwholes beneath the rail--then you didn't bed the rail sufficiently, and you really should remove it and do it properly.

You need to bed the entire rail in your chosen sealant to prevent any water from going beneath the installed rail. Any water that gets beneath will cause a host of problems, from lifting any finish on the wood to rotting the wood quickly, to the inevitable leaks through the rail fasteners--as well as through the old screw holes you left behind.

I'm not really sure from your description what you would be trying to accomplish with the "epoxy gum", other than pushing epoxy into the holes from the bottom (interior) side, but that doesn't sound like the best answer regardless.

In any event, the closest thing to "gum" is a variety of dough-like epoxy products that come in a tube, with the two parts of the epoxy wrapped around each other. To use it, you break off a hunk and knead it in your hands till you get consistent color, and apply it. It has a dense, heavy texture like Play-Doh. You can find this stuff almost anywhere--marine stores, hardware stores, home centers, etc.

But unless I am misunderstanding your problem, I suggest that you remove and rebed the rail. It's a hard lesson to learn, but as you said, you already know the right answer!

Good luck.

[george]

I should put sealant down under the toe rail?

I was unaware of this, i just laid the bare wood on the glassed over hull-deck joint and put the screws back in to the original holes.

I bought the boat disassembled, so did not take off the toe rails and did not know I should be bedding the wood on top of sealant.

makes sense though.

i will attempt it again with silicon sealant! thanks for your patience with boating tyros.

[Tim]

I should put sealant down under the toe rail?

I was unaware of this, i just laid the bare wood on the glassed over hull-deck joint and put the screws back in to the original holes.

Well there you go...problem solved.

I will attempt it again with silicon sealant!

No! No silicone. Silicone is a poor choice for anywhere on your boat.

(Class: Please fill in the blanks for extra credit. Silicone is____ ____. [2 words])

I suggest polysulfide for bedding and sealing your rail and screws. You could also use something like 4200.

Put down a heavy bead beneath the entire rail, with extra at the screw locations. You can stack the deck more in your favor if you mill small countersinks in the deck at the screw locations, which allows a bit more sealant to pool right at the fastener where it's needed most.

It's a messy, time-consuming job, but it's just one of those things. When you secure the rail, you should get consistent squeeze out on both sides of the rail along its entire length. Fun stuff. If your rail is unfinished wood, cover it with masking tape before beginning, or you'll fill the pores of the wood with sealant. It doesn't hurt to tape it even if it's finished.

[Hirilondë]

(Class: Please fill in the blanks for extra credit. Silicone is____ ____. [2 words])

Ooooh, oooh, oooh, Mr. Kot-tear. "pure evil"?

Since Tim already gave you the bad news I will simply agree, except I like Sikaflex 291.

[Tim]

(Class: Please fill in the blanks for extra credit. Silicone is____ ____. [2 words])

Ooooh, oooh, oooh, Mr. Kot-tear. "pure evil"?

Since Tim already gave you the bad news I will simply agree, except I like Sikaflex 291.

Congratulations! You win the kewpie doll.

[george]

thanks

i knew silicone was only for lexan and such, but you forget things when you don't work on a boat for 9 months.

i will get 'er done this weekend.

:)

[Hirilondë]

In spite of the fact that polycarbonate and acrylic manufacturers still recommend silicone I don't even use it to bed them. I have never had any etching, releasing or other issues using Lifecaulk or Sikaflex for them.

[Tim]

In spite of the fact that polycarbonate and acrylic manufacturers still recommend silicone I don't even use it to bed them. I have never had any etching, releasing or other issues using Lifecaulk or Sikaflex for them.

I thought another concern was that polysulfides could affect the plasticizers in these plastics, as well as ABS plastics (like deck plates, etc), which could weaken the plastic at some molecular or chemical level over time--something, I suppose, that one might not ever even realize until one day when it mattered.

[Quetzalsailor]

I used 3M 5200 when rebedding acrylic ports. Failed within a year. I grumped to 3M at a boat show and they handed me a tube of their silicone. Silicone has its uses: architectural mullionless glazing is glued together with it. I glazed an epoxy encapsulated shower door with GE's paintable silicone sealant and painted it with one-part urethane (Brightside Polyurethane): so far so good after three showers. I glazed my new teak companionway board window with silicone, taking extreme care to keep it off the varnish. Spar varnish exterior, exterior satin urethane interior.

The real problem with the silicone is that you cannot reliably get it off for later work.

[Summersdawn]

Has anybody tried this to remove silicone?

http://eshop.msn.ca/prices/shp/?itemId=539223

Might be worth a try. I'm not sure if it is compatible with varnish/paint/ plastic.