Another appeal to collective wisdom: Please explain the process of removing the jumper stay assembly from the mast. My mast is tied to stantions, but I would like to disassemble the jumper stay in order to allow the mast to be lowered over the side with the least possible complications. I can not find a way to relieve the tension of the cables (no turnbuckles) in order to remove the three aluminium cross pieces. The whole thing deserves a careful inspection...but I am compleatly stumped on the disassembly.
Heart's Ease, No.266
Mysterious Jumpers
-
- Damned Because It's All Connected
- Posts: 2846
- Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2003 9:32 am
- Boat Name: Triton
- Boat Type: Grand Banks 42
- Location: L.I. Sound
Jim,
As the jumper stays pass over the jumper struts, they go through a slotted aluminum threaded stud, right? Looks like someone cut the head off a bolt and then hacksawed a slot into it?
Where this stud enters the jumper strut, there should be a nut. Back off this nut to allow the stud to retract into the strut, which will relieve the tension on the stay.
As the jumper stays pass over the jumper struts, they go through a slotted aluminum threaded stud, right? Looks like someone cut the head off a bolt and then hacksawed a slot into it?
Where this stud enters the jumper strut, there should be a nut. Back off this nut to allow the stud to retract into the strut, which will relieve the tension on the stay.
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
- Contact:
Here's a photo of the slotted stud and nut that Mike mentioned in the above post.
Once you get the stays loosened and removed, the three jumper pieces should simply come apart. The cross piece is held on by the nuts and studs that you just loosened (the stud is just inserted loosely into the tubes), and the two angled tubes are simply inserted into their sockets on the mast. The whole thing is held together only by the compression of the stays, when tightened. There should be no further constraints to removal, unless the tubes are corroded into their sockets (quite possible). If so, break out that PB Blaster and have a go of it.
A nice improvement to the jumper setup is to install turnbuckles at the lower end of the jumper stays. Since this involves shortening the stays (rather than lengthening them), it's a job you can easily do yourself using the existing stays, if you're so inclined. You'll need a set of Sta-Loks or Norseman terminals (or similar) in 1/8" size to match the stays. These are easy--and even a little fun--to install. This is a good time to carefully inspect the jumper stays anyway, as they are frequently left in place and it may have been a long time since they were replaced.
I replaced my jumper stays this past spring, using Sta-Lok terminals. I detailed the Sta-Lok installation online at the following link, if you're interested.
Replacing the Jumper Stays Using Sta-Lok Terminals
Once you get the stays loosened and removed, the three jumper pieces should simply come apart. The cross piece is held on by the nuts and studs that you just loosened (the stud is just inserted loosely into the tubes), and the two angled tubes are simply inserted into their sockets on the mast. The whole thing is held together only by the compression of the stays, when tightened. There should be no further constraints to removal, unless the tubes are corroded into their sockets (quite possible). If so, break out that PB Blaster and have a go of it.
A nice improvement to the jumper setup is to install turnbuckles at the lower end of the jumper stays. Since this involves shortening the stays (rather than lengthening them), it's a job you can easily do yourself using the existing stays, if you're so inclined. You'll need a set of Sta-Loks or Norseman terminals (or similar) in 1/8" size to match the stays. These are easy--and even a little fun--to install. This is a good time to carefully inspect the jumper stays anyway, as they are frequently left in place and it may have been a long time since they were replaced.
I replaced my jumper stays this past spring, using Sta-Lok terminals. I detailed the Sta-Lok installation online at the following link, if you're interested.
Replacing the Jumper Stays Using Sta-Lok Terminals
---------------------------------------------------
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
misterious jumpers
thanks all,
I have found the adjusting threaded "thing" and the lot was dis- assembled. The 1/2" adjustment piece on No.266 needs to be refabricated because of corrosion.
I've asked a sailing friend and machinist to turn a new piece for me, does anyone else need a pair?
Jim H
I have found the adjusting threaded "thing" and the lot was dis- assembled. The 1/2" adjustment piece on No.266 needs to be refabricated because of corrosion.
I've asked a sailing friend and machinist to turn a new piece for me, does anyone else need a pair?
Jim H
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
- Contact:
Jim,
Is the new piece you're having fabricated the whole threaded rod and the nut? If so, I'll take a pair for my spares collection. Let me know the details (cost, where to send you $$, etc.)
tlackey@triton381.com
Is the new piece you're having fabricated the whole threaded rod and the nut? If so, I'll take a pair for my spares collection. Let me know the details (cost, where to send you $$, etc.)
tlackey@triton381.com
---------------------------------------------------
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating