Sanding between coats of varnish

[Shoalcove]

I'm starting to put some Epiphanes Classic varnish on the locker doors I stripped and sanded this winter and am wondering about everyones approach to adding coats. Do you sand lightly between every coat or just after a couple to help flatten to surface? I know what it says on the can but it also says warm and dry and since I live in the Maritimes that is just about a fantasy at this time of year. I've got 31 of these babies strewn about the spare room and would like to get them done. Is it OK to do a couple coats if the topcoat is done before the last has fully cured -say within 24 hours or should I just bite the bullet and teach my wife to sand? ; )
Thanks , David

[Figment]

I'm a huge fan of "hotcoating" to build film thickness. I'll do 3 coats in a day with favorable weather. After giving that ample time to cure, I'll scuff with a scotchbrite pad and do it again.

I only break out the sandpaper when I've screwed something up and need to level off, but more and more lately I've been attacking these little goofs with a razor blade instead.

[Hirilondë]

Some clear coats are designed to recoat without sanding. Epiphanes Rapidclear is one. What happens with this product is the solvents from the next coat etch into the previous coat. Some products are designed to hotcoat, which means to apply new coat over a partially cured previous coat. This also results in a chemical bond. If your product is designed to do neither it is not a good idea. When in doubt: read and follow the directions supplied by the manufacturer.

[Tim]

I think you get a flatter, nicer finish if you sand between every coat.

[boatsnh]

Hi David,
I've had very good luck applying the Epifanes "Wood Finish Gloss" product in the cold & damp. 2 & 3 years ago I re-varnished a fair amount of teak & mahoghany bits in the basement over the winter. Average temp was 45 F and humidity around 40%. I was able to apply "wet on dry" after about 12 hours of dry time - dry to touch with no "tackines" on the finger. I put around 5-6 coats on this way & only scraped of any major goofs (I like broken glass as a scraper) after all was done. Then I overcoated with the "classic clear" a couple coats. I did sand between coats of the classic traditional varnish. I'm very happy with the finish & it has held up well. It's part of my "varnish" test where I've used 3 different brands & keep track of what has lasted the best - so far the worst for me is Bristol Finish - lasted 2 years & yuck - won't use again. But others like it....such is life.

Most of the other varnishes I've used allow for the same application - no sanding between coats because the finish bonds to the still uncured finish. Most vendors say re-coat within 48 hours - although the cold may retard this a bit. I'd be leery of heavy wet coats on a still wet to touch finish - might see alligatoring as the finish tries to dry. One of the varnish companies I use (HMG) indicated their finish would go wet on "damp" but did not like to promote this because non professionals might try to push it and end up with a mess....

I've found, when in doubt call the manufacturer for guidance. Epifanes is great- they have an office in Maine & are very helpful - in fact I did call them about cold application & off I went. The # in USA is 207-354-0804 . Hope this is of help,
Mike

[Shoalcove]

Thanks for the input. I use the Wood Finish Gloss on the exterior wood but find it a little soft and have been topcoating that with the "regular". It looks and lasts great. I thought I'd use the Classic varnish down below since it won't be getting regular topcoats. It looks like I'll be digging out the 'paper. Thanks.

[Quetzalsailor]

I started out five years ago using Epifanes Clear and have been exceedingly unsatisfied with the longevity. I followed the instructions, for a change, too. Sanding, wiping down with their expensive thinner, etc, etc. I'm in the process, this year, of re-stripping the worst of the finish and using Cetol Marine Light Teak. I will repair the Epifanes where over 90% remains and try to get another year out of it before I re-strip those places, too.

The part that I don't get at all is the way the Epifanes almost sheets off the teak, but the drops that arrived on the fiberglass seem to last forever.

[Tom Young]

I'm starting to put some Epiphanes Classic varnish on the locker doors I stripped and sanded this winter and am wondering about everyones approach to adding coats. Do you sand lightly between every coat or just after a couple to help flatten to surface? I know what it says on the can but it also says warm and dry and since I live in the Maritimes that is just about a fantasy at this time of year. I've got 31 of these babies strewn about the spare room and would like to get them done. Is it OK to do a couple coats if the topcoat is done before the last has fully cured -say within 24 hours or should I just bite the bullet and teach my wife to sand? ; )
Thanks , David

I don't sand between the first 2 or 3 coats. I also like to use a quick drying varnish (like Jet or some such name) if I'm working outdoors to get things sealed up quickly (might help in your case too). For instance, I can put four coats on my 50' spar in two days using this system. Then it's one coat a day, or every other day if it's damp out. I thin the first three coats (about 15%, 10% 5% give or take)

Then I switch to regular varnish and try not to thin at all. I like Epiphanes varnish but I've had good luck with others as well.

After that third coat I'll sand between every coat, and only after it's bone dry. I don't think of that sanding as much work though, just flattening the surface with 220. I think it probably saves time overall in you get a well sealed flat surface fastest. Putting on smooth, uniform coats saves time and sanding as well.

[Rachel]

After that third coat I'll sand between every coat, and only after it's bone dry. I don't think of that sanding as much work though, just flattening the surface with 220.

That's true for me too, now that you mention it. It's in a whole 'nother league from what I typically think of as sanding, and much less onerous.

Rachel

[Shoalcove]

Hi Tom,
Thanks for the tip. I've done the same with the Wood Finish Gloss on the exterior. I've never used the Jet but it may be something to consider in the future. We are at coat 3 now so we'll plug away. I certainly don't want to do anything that risks ruining the job. It was a lot of work stripping them! You and Rachel are correct, of course, that the sanding is pretty straighforward but it's still more work than not sanding... The wx here has been rather horrid but expected to be very nice on Saturday. Needless to say, I start back on shift Saturday. These doors are about all I'm getting done so far so I might as well enjoy it.
Cheers, David

[keelbolts]

Epiphanes makes a varnish that doesn't require sanding between coats. You might just want to pick up some of that for this job.

[Oscar]

It may not require sanding for bonding purposes, but you WILL get a smoother surface if you sand.