Ive searched and read most of the posts but they dont seem to reference loads.
Can I use Garhauer cheek blocks on the side of my masts at cabin top level for turning to lead them aft? Would it be the 30 series?
Or would it be better to snap shackle blocks to padeyes or use a mast plate with leads on the blocks? they would be 90 degree bends and i know that increases the loads but I am unsure of what the load is in the first place.
I would really like to avoid running it all the way down to the mast step just to turning it over the hump to the cabin top.
How about for turning reefing gear?
I'm also replacing the blocks on my end boom sheeting as well so have the same question.
Garhauer mentions using a size up in high load areas but I dont have the experience to know what those are.
I am also needing to replace the Sheaves as well. In the 27 bristol, a single line enters one side over one sheave and exits the other. I hate using the adage well if the line fits...
Of course I might be limited by sizing as it was a wire halyard before, but unfortunately my old sheaves are not near enough to measure at the moment.
I was going to run 3/8 sta-set for all of it, so would i be safe assuming their thirty series blocks will work for everything?
Of course on the upshot all my running rigging and blocks will be new.
Thanks for the insight.
cheek blocks for turning halyards
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- Master Varnisher
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- Boat Type: 67 bristol 27
- Location: Iowa
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Re: cheek blocks for turning halyards
Yes.
Don't worry, design engineers have done all the calculations for you. Pick the block that suits the situation (i.e. a cheek block for redirecting a line in the same plane) and the line size. Sounds like you've done that.
Don't worry, design engineers have done all the calculations for you. Pick the block that suits the situation (i.e. a cheek block for redirecting a line in the same plane) and the line size. Sounds like you've done that.
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Re: cheek blocks for turning halyards
Just to mention one thing about wire halyards... There are high strength lines almost as small as wire but is actually stronger. Going this route can save money on having to replace the sheaves. Many yachts do it this way because it saves weight and reuses the old sheaves meant for the wire halyards (or others).
Only downside is that the the high strength lines might be tough on the hand because they're so small. Some people add outer jackets (from regular double braid lines) to thicken them in areas where handling occurs.
- Case
Only downside is that the the high strength lines might be tough on the hand because they're so small. Some people add outer jackets (from regular double braid lines) to thicken them in areas where handling occurs.
- Case
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- Master Varnisher
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2008 3:14 pm
- Boat Name: The Celtic Cross
- Boat Type: 67 bristol 27
- Location: Iowa
Re: cheek blocks for turning halyards
Im pretty much needing to replace the sheaves no matter what. they are the originals and have deep grooves cut into them, so i figured i would go ahead and convert them now.
THe boat is pretty much all original. right down to the main. My wife jokingly said "hey great so we can sell it as an antique!" The winches too have the slot handles. Over all in good condition but the hardware needs replacing.
Luckily when i opened the sail bags i found one new head sail and one that is like new. I wouldn't have been able to tell it had been used had there not been some wear on the clew. so lucked out there.
THe boat is pretty much all original. right down to the main. My wife jokingly said "hey great so we can sell it as an antique!" The winches too have the slot handles. Over all in good condition but the hardware needs replacing.
Luckily when i opened the sail bags i found one new head sail and one that is like new. I wouldn't have been able to tell it had been used had there not been some wear on the clew. so lucked out there.