wire sizing

[ghostwriter247]

Im setting up all led interior and nav lights with three flourescent lights as well.

I looked over voltage drop calculators but am still rather confused so figure i would make it easy and just ask.

SO for the masthead anchor and spreader deck lights i would say ten guage to ensure three percent drop. (its probably 80 foot round trip run.) Does that sound right?

What Guage wire is anyone using for the Interior led lights?

ANy Recommendations on panels? I had picked out a blue seas a series with prewired bus bars and then an ammeter and voltmeter.

THanks

[ghostwriter247]

I found the answers in the ericson thread. THere is lots of good information there.

[captphil416]

I have a similar set up on Deep Blue. I used #10 wire for all draws above 1 amp and #14 wire for all loads less than one amp. I did this to simplify purchasing in order to have more colors available. The extra money spent has paid dividends in that the system has proven bullet proof. For electrical components I have found Blue Seas products superior in all catagories. For my grounds I ran 4 buss systems to the 4 ends of the boat using # 8 wire giving essentially less than 1% voltage drop. My night time draw is 0.7 amps total. With the florescents turned on the draw can total 2.5 amps. All my positive wire leads were run in the brightest colors available to aid identification in those dark corners. This is certainly not a scientific approach, but as I said its bullet proof. Good luck Phil

[mitiempo]

I would tolerate more drop on interior lights than on nav lights.

Here's the easiest to use calculator I have found for wire sizing. Just fill in the blanks. Distance is to the device and back. http://boatstuff.awardspace.com/awgcalc.html

I usually use 14 awg for interior lighting. I have used 16 awg for some short led runs but also 14 awg if that is on hand. ABYC wants 16 awg or larger for everything so going smaller shouldn't be an option. On a larger boat I like to run from the panel, which is usually aft, to a terminal block or two forward with heavier wire and then branch off to fixtures from there with 14 awg. Mast wiring can be heavier wire to a terminal block at the mast base and lighter wire up the stick.

I use Blue Seas panels regularly and haven't ever had a complaint.
As far as ammeter and voltmeter you would be better off with a good battery monitor. It will measure amps used and tell you actual battery condition which ammeter/voltmeters cannot do. The Victron BMV-600 is about $160 at Jamestown Distributors - not that much more than the 2 meters suggested.

[ghostwriter247]

Thanks for the tip on the monitor. Thats what i was hoping to puzzle out with the other two guages.

[mitiempo]

Unfortunately you can't tell nearly as much with ammeter and voltmeter. After charging the voltage takes a while to settle the surface charge on the plates. An ammeter will show current amps in or out but has no history.

The battery monitor tells you how many amp hours you have used and the charge state of the battery at any time, as well as voltage.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... ry+Monitor