Engine stop cable

[BS Smith]

Just one more bit before the engine panel can be removed—the engine stop cable (yes, I know "mission accomplished" previously was reported, but pulling the panel was supposed to be painless). The push-pull cable is sheathed in a spiral steel jacket covered by rubber tubing. Was able to release and slide the tubing down, and loosen the nut (not shown) on the threaded fitting to the right of the visgrips:



But am unable to proceed further. The threaded piece terminates in a wider diameter ring that shouldn’t pass through the panel and a washer ensures it won’t:



Before today that rusty cable end used to be covered by a knob that I broke thinking it would screw off. Had I thought further would have realized removing the knob wouldn’t solve the problem—the tube ending in the threaded portion seems affixed to the cable sheath.

The cable of course has another end, and its removal looks simple in Compton’s Troubleshooting Marine Diesels, but in #82 it’s buried deep in inaccessible-without-disassembly engine bowels.

Any familiarity with this setup and how I might remove the threaded portion and replace the knob? (Don’t like the odds on this one…)

Will also need further patience before decks are sanded. Next on the list is digging out a dozen chainplates.

Thanks,

Brian

[Tim]

Usually you have to disconnect the cable from the engine end, and pull it through the panel the other direction. The engine end typically has no fittings, as only the inner wire part of the cable simply clamps (usually) into whatever fitting is on the engine for this purpose.

[BS Smith]

Hmmm… Unwelcomed but not unexpected news. Here’s how the cable looks engine-side, a lot clearer in digital picture than in person:



The screw head is reachable from above with a long driver, and with excessive good fortune might even unscrew. The cable barrel then would drop from sight and I could find no way—front, back, side or top of motor—to get hand or needle nose pliers in to secure a new cable, without pulling the heat exchanger or fuel injection lines. As the month’s rum ration long has been exhausted, elected to move on to a new problem and leave this rusty mess for now. (Perhaps Visegrips will replace the stop cable knob…)

BS

[Ceasar Choppy]

First, put the rum down. You'll need to be sober for this. :)

It is possible to do this with a set of those really long needle nose and screw drivers. My Perksin 4-108 had a different set-up, but it is ultimately secured to a lever on the fuel injection pump.

You can take the Bowman heat exchanger/manifold off or you can take the fuel injection pump off to do this, but I would try to see what you can do before you remove these. Practice your breathing technique and make sure you have a nice white oil pad under the engine to catch the bits that will slip down into the bilge.