Are Triton Berths Level Fore-Aft

[jhenson]

Back in December, I put an order into Ronco plastics for three tanks that will go into the v-berth. Two are for water, and one for waste. These are the identical tanks were used by Jim Bissonette on hull 577 and are featured on the Triton MIR site. Jim has been very helpful with tank diagrams and installation instructions.



http://tritonclass.org/mir/577holdingtank.html

During a recent e-mail, Jim noted that he used the underside of the v-berth plywood as a reference for leveling the tanks fore and aft only to find out that in practice that the forward berths are lower on the aft end of the v-berth by a couple of inches.

The tanks arrived last month and this week finds me constructing the tank support platforms. The two outboard tapered-triangular tanks are proving to be difficult to fit to the hull (at least for me). Before I glass the tank supports to the hull, I want to try to get the tanks as close to the average level position as possible.

Are the berths on other Tritons fairly close to level? I realize there are variances due to loading but I'm wondering if they are "in the ballpark" on other boats. Also, if not, is it comfortable to lay feet facing aft in the settees? Down the road, I'm considering enlarging the galley over a foot well on the starboard side.

I wish I had the foresight to take some surveys of this issue (including the location of the bootstripe) before the boat was pulled from the water, but I didn't give it a thought at the time.

Joe

[Tim]

The v-berth is generally not even close to level. As Jim found, the foot end (forward) is quite a bit higher than the aft end. This has been true on every Triton I've had the pleasure of seeing in person. Typically, the angle is enough to be visually obvious even in a finished boat.

This photo, from the Daysailor construction sequence, shows fairly clearly how far off from level the original v-berth platform was. When I built the new platform, I installed it level (the boat was level in the shop). The blue foam in this photo is level; you can see evidence of the old tabbing just above, with a reddish line of epoxy filler highlighting the lower edge, and it shows the amount of the angle at which the original v-berth was installed.



This photo also shows the original angle, if you know what you're looking for (remember, it's that reddish line of filler). Note that the aft end of my new foam supports is even with the height of the aft end of the original platform; then notice how much further down the new supports are than the original tabbing.



Here's one more, showing a closer view of the forward end. Again, the red line of filler at the bottom end of the old tabbing represents the level of the old platform. To make the new platform level, I lowered the forward end probably 2" or 3" (again, keeping the aft end at the same height as the original platform).



The settees are generally closer to level than the v-berth, though I certainly wouldn't use the original settees (or any other original interior structure) as a guideline for new level/plumb installations. I have found the original bulkheads, dividers, etc. to be terribly out of plumb/square/level, as well as asymmetrical from side to side.

[bcooke]

Maybe Pearson realized that fat people would be sleeping in the V-berth which would give the boat a nose down attitude when the berths were in use, so an angle was built in so the berth would be level when loaded?...

Seriously though, Tritons do nose down when the V-berths are occupied so maybe a little angle would be good? Or am I thinking too much again?...

Actually, I just wanted an excuse to leave the V-berth design alone. Now that I know they are crooked I might HAVE to do something about it.

-Britton

[Tim]

I find the slight foot-elevated position to be mildly annoying, but it hasn't really bothered us at all. I use 2 pillows to keep my head a little higher. The angle isn't bad enough to warrant ripping everything out for that reason alone; however, if one was to delve into the v-berth area for other changes, such as tankage, etc., I believe it would be worthwhile to rebuild the berth at a level attitude.

[dkall]

Does it really change with people in the berth 1/2 - 1" / foot. That means the boat with people in the bow would be 14 - 28 " lower. Say since this is over the entire boat and the boat will pivot across the CG then 7-14" lower at the bow and visa versa in the stern. Or, am I missing something here?

I'm finding most factory boats have really crappy workmanship in terms of level, and square. Seems that all factory boats would have been ahead if they would have taken care at the furniture rough in stage to make things square and level. All the trim would look much better and things would add on easier. IMHO

[jhenson]

Tim,

When you said you leveled the hull on the Daysailor, what did you use as a reference? I really have no clue how to obtain this level line with my boat out of the water. The bootstripe was so caked with crud that it was hardly visible when it was in the water, so it is no doubt suspect. I'm guessing that the answer is some where on one of your web sites.

Joe

[Tim]

Joe,

I have found that the lower scribe line--that which demarks (or did originally) the top of the bottom paint--is a good reference for level. The boot top scribe (the upper line) is not an accurate line for level, as this scribe is substantially sheered. The boot top is never a good reference for anything, including painting a new boot top.

If you remove the paint, you should be able to see the scribe marks at both ends, as well as at the centerline. These scribes survive very well and are difficult to sand away even if you want to. Leveling fore and aft can be as simple as measuring (with a plumb line) from the scribe mark to the floor and ensuring that the measurement is the same bow and stern--assuming the floor is a flat, even surface like a paved driveway or concrete floor. I wouldn't do this on gravel.

This is getting ahead of things a bit, but the boat is properly trimmed when she floats parallel to that lower scribe line, regardless of whether the boat is heavy (floats low) or light (floats high). Most Tritons tend to squat aft and really should be trimmed forward to properly even out the trim so that she floats parallel to that scribe line. Properly painting the boat in this manner makes quite a difference in the overall appearance. The original waterlines require raising almost as a matter of course, as I've yet to see a Triton with original waterline location that looked right. It took me 2 seasons with the boat in the water to figure this out, after which I corrected the waterline and boot top, as detailed here. Do not repaint the bottom to the top of the old boot top scribe as a means of raising the waterline; it will never look right. If raising the waterline, the new line must be struck parallel to the original lower scribe, and the boat trimmed to suit this line rather than the other way around. (2 vastly different Tritons--Glissando and the Daysailor--both float parallel to this line, though with about 6" of difference in height between the two.)

FWIW, I think sailboats always look better if trimmed slightly by the bow rather than the stern (if not level). Squatting looks terrible in all cases, but level is best. My eye always goes directly to the waterline and boot top on all boats that I see; bad ones are common, and immediately detract from the boat's appearance regardless of how nice the other details might be. This is one of those pesky details that makes some boats look right, and others less so, even to untrained observers, though they can't necessarily put their finger on why one looks better than the other.

For side-to-side leveling, running a long level across the cockpit, from sidedeck edge to sidedeck edge, is as good as anything. You can also pick a consistent point on the lower scribe line amidships to level the boat side-to-side. It's worth taking the time and effort to level the boat at the onset of a project, as you then have accurate level and plumb lines from which to build your new structures and interior.

Here's one archaic way to level the hull. Leveling the Daysailor

I'll use a good transit/laser level to level future boats.

[bcooke]

Or, am I missing something here?

Only that you may be taking my posts too seriously :-)

It all sounded so easy in the beginning. I suppose it still is but the lists of easy must-do's just keeps on growing... Now I have to go back and level the boat and glass in new supports for my V-berth before I can re-install the V-berths correctly... <sigh>. I guess I should feel lucky that these posts always seem to come up in the nick of time. I would hate to read this post after I just glassed the berths back in "as per original".

Tim, I must commend you on your tact. It must have been difficult having my boat anchored next to you for a week with the paint right up to the bootstripe but I suppose it was hard to scrutinize the striping under the glare of the faded "seasick green" gelcoat and epoxy spattered decks.

I'll use a good transit/laser level to level future boats

How about those $20 laser levels you find at Home Despot?

-Britton

[dasein668]

It must have been difficult having my boat anchored next to you for a week with the paint right up to the bootstripe but I suppose it was hard to scrutinize the striping under the glare of the faded "seasick green" gelcoat and epoxy spattered decks.

Geez, Britton... didn't it occur to you that there must be a reason that all the pictures of your boat that we took look like this:

[Tim]

Wow...remember those idyllic summer evenings? It seems so far removed right now.

[Tim]

I'll use a good transit/laser level to level future boats

How about those $20 laser levels you find at Home Despot?

I have one of the inexpensive laser levels, but found it to be less than ideal to adjust, particularly when a large area (like a waterline plane) needed to be marked. I did use it, in company with some old-fashioned methodology, to mark the waterline on the Daysailor, but didn't like it much.

One of the rotating levels would be the best choice--something like one of these. It need not be overly fancy--just easy to set up and adjust, and accurate once that is done.

[jhenson]

Wow,

What started as a "simple" tank leveling exercise has turned into a possible entire rework of the v-berth. I have to laugh a little because after nearly two years on the project, I have grown to expect the unexpected finally (I'm a slow learner). I am really glad I started this post because the holding tank is four feet long (and relatively narrow), and a couple of degrees of upward tilt would take it from 20 gallons capacity easily down to 15 gallons or so, especially with 4 people in the cockpit.

I'm sort of leaning toward replacing the berth plywood, but I dread the dust in a confined space the most (last winter I thought I had most of the interior grinding complete). There is so much of that sloppy tabbing under this plywood. It sort of looks like the job they did on the A4 engine bed. I might be able to chisel most of that stuff off the hull instead of grinding it off. I just removed the vertical sides of the v-berth to put in the new tanks. Also, a previous owner hacked up the port aft section of the horizontal surface to install a small holding tank. So, I guess I don't have much to lose here. Now is the time to do it, if I'm going to do it.

I just re-read the v-berth section on the Daysailor project. That looks great. Tim, what was the source on the foam used to build the support cleats? Also, is there an need to use marine ply for this application. It seems like this work falls under a non-structural "furniture" construction. It's a 4 hour round trip for me to get marine ply.

I remember now the reference to the scribed water line, and yes mine is highly visible.

Joe

[Tim]

I just re-read the v-berth section on the Daysailor project. That looks great. Tim, what was the source on the foam used to build the support cleats? Also, is there an need to use marine ply for this application. It seems like this work falls under a non-structural "furniture" construction. It's a 4 hour round trip for me to get marine ply.

The blue foam is just regular styrofoam insulation, available in 2x8 or 4x8 sheets everywhere. Be forewarned: acetone eats this stuff, but it is not affected by epoxy resin. It's an easy material to use for non-essential cleats and other installations where the strength will come from other materials in the end.

Use whatever plywood you're comfortable with for the v-berth. The meranti I used is overkill in this application, but I strove (is that a word?) to keep all materials in the Daysailor at the top end of the quality spectrum. I imagine just about any plywood would work for this sort of interior, non-structural work.

[jhenson]

Tim,

Most Tritons tend to squat aft and really should be trimmed forward to properly even out the trim so that she floats parallel to that scribe line.

Is it difficult process to trim a Triton configured for cruising to a level position? It seems like there is far less area in the boat to stow weight forward of where I imagine the longitudinal center of floatation to be located.

Joe

[Tim]

The water tank is critical to the longitudinal trim. When full, it really makes a difference in the bow. I can always tell how empty my tank is becoming just by judging the waterline forward. A full tank lowers the bow by an inch (which brings it to the proper trim in my case). Anchors and ground tackle, particularly when perched right on the stem, also provide significant trim benefit if required; I can also notice a difference in the bow waterline when the boat is riding on an anchor, meaning that weight is no longer on the bow...it's noticeably higher than when the anchor and chain are stowed.

What can really squat a Triton is an overabundance of heavy gear stored in cockpit lockers or lazarette. The stern sections of the design just do not support weight well.

I admit that I obsess over the trim thing. I have spent untold hours over the years reorganizing the storage on board to move heavier items one way or another, etc. I shouldn't prevail my obsessions on others, and don't want to overblow the importance here. When talking an inch or so of trim, it's really just about appearances.

[Figment]

Obsess away! This is an issue that truly affects the whole boat.... under sail as well as at rest.

I'm convinced that my boat goes to weather better with some significant weight forward.

[catamount]

Squatting in the stern is not unique to Tritons -- my dad's Cape Dory has the same problem. Maybe it's an Alberg thing?

[jhenson]

Tim,

I spent a few hours yesterday leveling the hull in anticipation of installing the bow tanks. I used a masons string level that was suspended at a level height with the DWL scribe mark. The boat mover had the bow considerably high, so the boat had been way off level as it was delivered. By standing 50' abeam, I was able to guage the scribe mark against the string level. I have the scribe line now laying directly behind the line level. I figure this methodology has me fairly close to a leveled the hull, but I plan to improvise a water level to get it exact within the next couple of days.

After the prelimary leveling, I checked bulkheads and berths to see how they were installed at the factory. The settees seem to be fairly level. The v-berth has the downward tilt you described, but maybe a little less than than the daysailor. What surprised me though were the bulkheads. These lean forward about 3-5 degrees from plumb. Do you remember if that was the case with your hull? If so, was there a reason behind this? I have to assume that the hull was leveled at the factory prior to constuction of the bulkheads. Maybe I'm not as close to level as I think I am, but I don't think I am off by 5 degrees.

P.S. The Daysailor is just lovely!!!

Joe

[Tim]

I have to assume that the hull was leveled at the factory prior to constuction of the bulkheads.

Ha! No, I'm afraid that is an unsafe assumption! These boats were slapped together rather haphazardly, and I also found the bulkheads to be significantely out of plumb and also asymmetrical vis-a-vis the centerline of the boat. Leveling and careful measurement/installation do not seem to have been significant concerns during construction.

Be very wary of using any existing structure as a reference in any boat, but certainly in these old Pearsons.

[bcooke]

Jim, after your posting I went and put a critical eye on my V-berth area too, including the bulkheads. Nothing is square up there. The bulkheads lean forward and they are well off of perpendicular to the centerline. My own thoughts are that one could go overboard trying to square everything up. There just isn't a good reference point to start from anywhere unless one wanted to tear the entire boat apart and start fresh. In my case I am not even sure the two sides are all that symmetrical. My goal is going to be to make everything good to my eye and call it good. Call it one of the idiosynchrisies(?spelling) that give the Triton all that charm.

I think what made the Triton such as success at its introduction was its price. It was really, really cheap compared to others in its class. The Volkswagen Beetles of the boatworld if you will. There was never an intention to build a superior boat at the Pearson factory. They went for a boat affordable by the masses. I think they did a good job of engineering in a good safety factor but Pearson never intended to compete with Hinckley in terms of quality.

-Britton

[Tim]

There just isn't a good reference point to start from anywhere unless one wanted to tear the entire boat apart and start fresh.

Agreed. The theoretical "best" job, of course, would require redoing everything from scratch, but that's entirely unnecessary for our general purposes; the bulkheads may be out of whack, but they're sound and strongly attached (unless they're not, in which case this point is moot anyway). While being able to reference off any structure for plumb or level is handy, there's no reason that one has to start there for a renovation. Just remember that these errors can easily compound when rebuilding, so be sure to use a consistent reference in any case.

With the boat blocked more or less level, it's easy enough to determine a new reference point (one that is good to the eye and feel) for the new construction, and just adapt the angles as need be to conform with the existing, out of plumb/level structures. It's helpful to know how far off the existing structures are just for reference, but it's not a critical thing in the scheme of things.

[jhenson]

Britton,

I certainly don't plan to trash the bulkheads! I haven't even hacked out the v-berth yet. Still, given the poor condition of it, I think it will be worth having a level spot to sleep. As slowly as I am progressing though, I'll need to widen the sole for my "walker" so I can get forward to the v-berth.

I took a couple of months off from the project to spend a little more time with my boys, but I need to get moving on it again.

Joe

[bcooke]

I certainly don't plan to trash the bulkheads!

You show more restraint than me then! Not that I would seriously consider going that deep with a rebuilding project but my immediate answer to a problem often involves the hammer or circular saw. I have learned the best way to tackle a problem is simply to rip it outa there and then get on with rebuilding it the right way. The V-berth comes out pretty easy with that circular saw by the way. Really gives you a lot of maneauvering room for those new tanks too...

As slowly as I am progressing though, I'll need to widen the sole for my "walker" so I can get forward to the v-berth.

I hear you, some members on this forum make it sound too easy, just imagine, a total gutting and rebuilding in under two years! It is all a trick to lead me astray, I know it!

-Britton

[Tim]

I hear you, some members on this forum make it sound too easy, just imagine, a total gutting and rebuilding in under two years! It is all a trick to lead me astray, I know it!

There we go again, with the blame game! That's OK. I can take it!

[jhenson]

There should be the following disclaimer on all Tim Lackey web-sites:

Warning! Professional Results: DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!!!!

Still, I'm happy that the bar has been set much higher than I care to get to. Having the ultimate Triton is a mountain that has already been climbed.

Joe

[bcooke]

There we go again, with the blame game! That's OK. I can take it!

Please note: No names were used. Now, if you somehow feel responsible and the guilt drives you to suffer the "blame" you feel is coming to you then by all means, "take it!"

Having the ultimate Triton is a mountain that has already been climbed.

Ah, now "ultimate" is in the eyes of the beholder. While I applaud Tim's efforts, (you are referring to Tim aren't you?) I fully intend to covet the title of "ultimate Triton" for myself. Of course I am the sole member of the committee that hands out such titles so I think my nomination is a shoe in.

WARNING!! This website is for demonstration purposes only. Do Not Try This At Home!! You can't do it.
If you fail to heed this message, DOOM will follow you for the rest of your life.
You will have no friends.
You will have no money.
You will hear voices in your head claiming to come from a fiber reinforced shell that was once referred to as a "marine vessel".
You will converse with said voices.
You will spend hours scouring the internet for items you can't afford to appease these voices.
These voices will tell you that only your boat truly loves you.
These voices will be correct.
The whine of a grinder will follow you to bed every night.
Electrical schematics will haunt your dreams.
You will be distraught and panic stricken should you not attend to your "vessel" at least once a day.
You will be very very poor (this is worth repeating).
Your life will become a constant commute between the boat and back to the tool shed for the tool you just forgot.
You will spend much much MUCH too much time trying to compose witty verses on internet bulletin boards devoted to boat restoration.


... but you are going to click that button anyway aren't you?
Welcome to the DARK SIDE

-Your humble servant, -B.

[Tim]

There we go again, with the blame game! That's OK. I can take it!

Please note: No names were used. Now, if you somehow feel responsible and the guilt drives you to suffer the "blame" you feel is coming to you then by all means, "take it!"

Oh, my mistake, then. Silly of me to presume...

Guilt free every day, I am

[bcooke]

So, to cover my sin of taking this thread WAY off track...

How goes the tank installation Jim?

-Britton

[jhenson]

How goes the tank installation Jim?

Jim???

Very slowly. I am going to trash the vberth plywood tomorrow when I get home. I hope to have better access to the area so I can finish the tank support structure assemblies without straining my neck.

I guess you are having a custom tank built for the water system. Where is your holding tank located?

Joe

[grampianman]

Joe,

When you combine Joe and Tim, you get Jim! Now you have been elevated to the realms of angels.

Cheers,
Ian

[bcooke]

Oops!, my mistake, I must have been confusing you with the guy that had his hand up the furry green frog's ummm... backside :-) I don't know where that came from. In your old avatar you kinda looked like a Jim maybe?...

If I had thought of it I would have used this answer:

When you combine Joe and Tim, you get Jim! Now you have been elevated to the realms of angels

Very clever.

Where is your holding tank located?

Well, I may rethink this and might even copy your installation but my goals were:
To keep the water tank centered over the middle of the boat.
Find space for at least a ten gallon holding tank.
Leave some storage available for personal items.
Be able to walk into the V-berth area. (After trying it this summer I don't like crawling into a filled in V-berth area).

I had hoped to replace the original water tank with a bigger tank in the same location and put the holding tank aft of that and on the port side.
That would leave a locker equal in size to the holding tank on the starboard side. I will just have to be careful not to tell anyone sleeping on the port side of the V-berth that a few inches under them is the 'fertilizer tank".

If I give up the under berth storage idea I may copy your installation and use both side tanks for water (linked so they would stay balanced- at least when floating level) and use the center tank as a holding tank. Then I get the 40 gallon water capacity I was looking for. I think it will depend on how good a 'deal' I can get from my welder contact. The more I think about it, I may save the money and extend/enclose the V-berth shelving for storage space instead. Everything is a compromise <sigh>.

What were the part numbers on your tanks?

-Britton

[jhenson]

Britton,

The Ronco tank numbers are as follows:

Holding (20gal.) B152
Water (20gal.) B231
Water (18gal.) B214

The tanks were ordered with 6" clear inspection plates so I can determine tank levels(I can just imagine the discussions that my boys will have with the holding tank view port). The holding tank has two 3/4" vents fore and aft.

I will say that these tanks will not fit under the existing v-berth without some modifications. One needs to widen the berths by about an inch. So, if you were to use these, you would need to cut your new plywood accordingly. You will loose the "seat" in the vberth, but the "standing area" will be about the same as before. This was important for me right now for various reasons. I will set it up for a removable filler piece to give the option of a full berth.

There are a couple of other things that I see so far with this installation. The holding tank does not have enough clearance between the tank and vberth plywood to allow for a "standpipe" outlet on the top of the tank. The outlet is at the bottom which forces part of the outlet hose to be filled, so odor permeation might be a problem over time. Having a blockage in this section of the plumbing will necessitate clearing the tank. I will have solid PVC here.

You will loose all the storage under the v-berth except for the area forward of the tanks if you cut an access to it. Still it looks like a fair amount of storage is available here. There are some balance issues here as well. With the water tanks full and the holding tank empty, you will have more weight to starboard, but will gradually shift to more weight to port. I have an 11 gallon Tempo tank for the Yanmar that I may install on the port side for this reason since it should be consumed on a schedule similar to the water tanks.

Also, these tanks don't clear the hull very far. I'm still scratching my head for the tank supports. So far, I plan on having each tank sit on a sheet of 1/2" plywood that will be screwed down to cleats that are epoxied to the hull. These cleats though will not be very thick and that concerns me a little. I think the tank straps will be anchored to the hull as opposed to the tank platforms because of this. I have some tank mockups to cut the tank support cleats to the precise angle to get the tanks level. There must be some trick to figure out the compound angles here, but I haven't found it yet.

I have my tank order drawings, as well as Jim Bissonette's, if you want them. I can fax them or email them to you if you are interested. The price quote on Jim's order isn't even close to the current prices. Rising oil prices have made these more than double.

I've been looking for a different (more nautical) avatar, but haven't found it yet. I guess I'll go back to the old one for now.

Joe

[bcooke]

Joe,

Looks like we are fighting the same problem. I already decided I needed to widen my V-berths too. I will still have room to swing my legs down and stand/crouch in the forward area but not as much as the original. Interesting that the two flanking tanks are not of the same dimensions. I had just assumed they were a mirrored pair. When you say the prices have increased do you mean above the price in the online catalog? The prices there seemed to be around the $150 mark (very roughly) for all each of them.

I am awaiting an estimate on my three custon tanks and I am bracing myself :-) If I am forced to retreat from going the custom route I will get back to you for those drawings. Thanks for the offer.

While I am waiting I guess I better get out to the boatyard, level the boat and get my own V-berths 'squared' away.

-Britton

[bcooke]

Hey Joe,

How is your tankage working out? It takes longer than you thought doesn't it?...

-Britton

[jhenson]

Britton,

Everything takes me a long time. I have the plywood tank supports constructed but have yet to paint them. Like you, I await a break in the weather. My v-berth looks just like yours-- a giant empty bathtub. I can't see working with heat lamps in that tight area right now. I expect to have the supports down this week or next, but it is snowing outside as I write this.

I have been using the idle time to mill some custom "paneling". I sort of decided to make something a little different than the beadboard that I initially thought of using for the project. Mine will look more like a simple shiplap with the laps on 4" centers. If you have the book "Under Sail", it should look something like the white bulkheads aboard Tuiga. I have really been enjoying some woodworking while the weather improves. So far, the paneling has turned out better than I had hoped for, but is a little labor intensive. The plan is to use it on every bulkhead forward of and excluding the main salon where I hope to have something more formal.

I hope to post some pictures of the v-berth once the tanks are in within a week or so.

Joe

[dasein668]

I expect to have the supports down this week or next, but it is snowing outside as I write this.

What is wrong with this weather??? It was 55 and sunny here in Gorham today. I think you've had more snow in Virginia than we've had here this winter!

[jhenson]

Nathan,

What is wrong with this weather??? It was 55 and sunny here in Gorham today. I think you've had more snow in Virginia than we've had here this winter!

I don't know what is up with the weather, but it is getting really old! I need to get going again on my decks.

BTW, I enjoyed seeing the pictures of your boat you posted today. I need the inspiration to get me moving again full speed ahead on my boat.

Joe

[tikvah59]

That's odd, it hasn't hit 50 in Boston in about 10 days. Not good for all those wonderful boat products which don't work in the cold. Come to think of it, I don't work too well in the cold.

Nathan, was it really 55? Can I move to Maine? Wait, I'll bet you're going to tell me about a nice boat barn that's available, and there's a house on the property as well . . .

Mark

[dasein668]

It's been cold up here for a week or so too. I don't know what the official temperature yesterday was, but the thermometer here read 53.9 at one point (yeah, I rounded up!). But it was sunny, with little wind and I was comfortable throwing the frisbee for Bailey wearing just a short-sleeved shirt. Really nice.

We're back down to 35.6 and overcast as I type this now...

[Tim]

At the risk of sounding horribly selfish, the latest cold snap couldn't have come at a better time for me. It allowed my new house foundation to be completed, so I'm a happy boy.

Explanation: up here, they post weight limits (23,000 lb.) on side roads in the spring, so that heavy vehicles don't ruin the roads as the frost comes out of the ground. The road my new property is on is posted, which means that heavy vehicles--like concrete trucks and flatbeads bearing heavy equipment like excavators--can only travel if the road is "solidly frozen". So the cold nights the past week or so have been a real boon to my progress. The trucks never could have come in if it were 50. The posting was very early this year; it usually doesn't happen till April.

It's been a very odd winter. We've had about 6 temporary mud seasons during the warm spells, and no snow since February 12. I think there have been 4 or maybe 5 barely plowable (3") snow events all season--very unusual. There has definitely been more snow in southern New England and even the Mid-Atlantic and south. We missed all the big snowstorms this year, like those that slammed NYC and other areas.

[tikvah59]

It allowed my new house foundation to be completed, so I'm a happy boy.

Good for you. I'm glad somebody's getting some work done. I've had to revise my project list a few times due to the cold.

It's been a very odd winter.

We missed all the big snowstorms this year, like those that slammed NYC and other areas.

It's been unusually dry in Boston too, but we did get hit with that blizzard. It pushed my boat structure against the toe rail, gouging it nicely. Add that to the project list.

I'm just frustrated because it's supposed to be 40's and 50's now, and I'm sure once I'm back at work the thermometer will shoot up again. I suppose there are worse problems to have.

Mark

[bcooke]

Hey Joe?!...

You may have already figured it out but just for everybody's info, the berths are NOT level side-to-side either.

I was a little confused for a while trying to get my V-berth level lines to match up on the forward end. I was running from the original remnants on the aft end forward. As it turns out, my starboard aft end of the V-berth is 1.25 inches higher than the aft port side. Once that little puzzle was solved everything fell into place nicely.

-Britton

[jhenson]

Well,

Mine seems OK in that respect. I have been laying out the height of my berths there also. I spent last week altering the chain locker bulkhead and I ached everywhere from standing, squating, and sitting in the empty expanse of what was once the vberth. I miss the level area to work on, but I hope to have it back soon.

Joe

[bcooke]

I miss the level area to work on...

Hehe, I can only work up there for so long before I get too aggravated. EVERYTHING, slides, slithers, shifts or otherwise refuses to stay put on those sloping sides. I can't begin to count the number of times I have slipped and bashed my knee or the tank slipped and crushed my foot or... well you get the idea. Definitely a more time consuming project than I thought.

-Britton

[jhenson]

Some tank pictures:









There is much more work before I am finished with the installation.

Joe

[bcooke]

Those are some pretty snazzy tank mounts Joe!

There is much more work before I am finished with the installation.

Be warned, putting tanks in the V-berth takes a LOT longer than you think it will...

-Britton

[Figment]

so, the things leaning on the 'yota are the tank supports?

[jhenson]

so, the things leaning on the 'yota are the tank supports?

Yes, though I guess they look sort of strange?

[bcooke]

Hey Joe, any finished pictures?

After a summer's hiatus I am looking at covering everything up with the panels that make the actual berth. Soon, all that work will be covered up in a very ordinary looking double berth...

-Britton

[jhenson]

Britton,

No, unfortunately I haven't been working on the inside of the boat at all. It gets pretty hot over my driveway in July and August, so I have been working on the exterior, and not very much at that since I purchased the CAL 27. We took some time to go sailing over the last couple of months, and it has helped to keep the project in prospective.

I am anxious to get moving on the Triton again with better speed now that my kids are back in school. I'll be starting my third year on it this month!

I hope you update some of the pictures as soon as get going on the vberth again. What else have you been doing on your boat?

Joe