Plastic Classic Forum

mitiempo

I think most would go from the outside with the tapped section acting as the nut, possibly the only nut as you could even do a blind tap (Not go completely through the inside wall) and seal the hole with epoxy on the threads. There is not that much force outwards on a port - the danger comes from it...

mitiempo

Jay
Looks like it will work. But why not run the bolts in from the outside instead. You could use nyloks inside, acorn nuts, or hide the fastenings with trim.

mitiempo

I agree with Rachel. There is nothing wrong with a well installed quality seacock. I wouldn't relocate it outboard as, like Rachel said, it would be useless on one tack. I actually moved my sink farther inboard, just off center, and will move the seacock farther inboard as well when I haul out to al...

mitiempo

Early Pearsons also had fiberglass tubes without seacocks as I recall. For cockpit drains the issue is that the cockpit flexes, even a bit, and over many years (they are all quite old now!) the flexing can easily crack and weaken the fiberglass tubes. Hose to a proper seacock gives with the inevitab...

mitiempo

If you connect a hose to the raw water intake be very careful with flow. It is generally a bad idea to run water into an engine under pressure - best to let the pump do the work.

mitiempo

You're not kidding Rachel!

mitiempo

Here's another example. I'm not sure what boat as the pic came from the web and is in my file of interior details.

mitiempo

Bob I wouldn't hesitate to install a deck plate for access (or a larger hatch). On my CS27 when I replaced the fuel tank I also replaced fill and vent hoses. The vent fitting was mounted high on the transom just off center to clear the outboard rudder. The cockpit well extends right to the transom a...

mitiempo

The 995 is listed as for metal and glass but is probably a good choice. The best recommendation I have received is for Dow 739 which is designed for plastics specifically. http://www2.dowcorning.com/DataFiles/09 ... 002241.pdf

mitiempo

I agree with the above, just make sure you use enough sealant to fill in the texture. Also if the deck is cored overdrill and pot the holes with epoxy before final drilling if it hasn't already been done to prevent water intrusion.

mitiempo

I think the earlier poster meant Dow 795 (not 995). Both 795 and 739 are structural adhesives recommended for lexan and plexi. They are far removed in properties from the silicone you have probably seen or used before. They are used to attach glazing to highrises without fasteners as well as ports i...

mitiempo

Interesting video. I watched the fiberglass dinghy video as well. Other than the lack of safety equipment, the interesting comment that "because of the very nature of its construction, this type of boat can't be mass produced." Apparently that changed! Also at the end of the video, not a l...

mitiempo

I am pretty sure it is not required but it can be a good idea. I went a different route. I have an Attwood surge protector in the vent line (which exits high on the centre of the transom) that closes the vent when fuel rises in the vent line.

mitiempo

I've worked on the interiors of three boats in 2 different marinas over the years without problems. Extensively. There are some marinas where it is frowned upon but as long as you're not recoring the decks and are working below it's usually ok. If the boats next to you are liveaboards you could have...

mitiempo

Hi Chris The Vivacity is a cool boat, used to see quite a few around Vancouver and Victoria (Canada). My suggestion is to use a closed cell foam cut in a trapezoid shape, wider against the hull and narrower against the bulkheads. If you're careful with the cutting, and it's easy to cut foam with a r...

mitiempo

I agree with Andrew's method. As far as what to use for a core, any core is a problem if it gets wet, even foam in a freeze/thaw climate. Balsa is the strongest for its weight, and because of the way it's made it easily follows the curve of the deck. If properly installed it will outlast you. And An...

mitiempo

Propane is heavier than air, CNG is lighter. But CNG is very hard to get in many places. Propane is the cooking/heating fuel used worldwide and so is available most anywhere. CNG tanks are like scuba tanks and if you're in an area where it is common like California you don't fill but exchange tanks....

mitiempo

You could glass the bottom and use Formica for the sides, using epoxy. It would be easy to clean and durable as well as good looking.

mitiempo

Plastic fuel tanks are common, but if the tank is metal the fittings should be metal I believe. Metal and plastic are not a good match due to differing expansion with temperature change. Same reason you should never use plastic (Marelon) seacocks with bronze through hulls. If the tank is metal I wou...

mitiempo

Based on what I've read about Dunex Dux the uv degradation seems limited as far as testing so far. The outer part will suffer but the inside strands do not it seems. Because Dynex is about double the strength of stainless size for size even a 20% loss of strength from uv leaves a huge reserve.

mitiempo

Dynex Dux did not come from the racing crowd. It came from the commercial fishing industry where cost is a factor. It is not exotically expensive and compares to stainless in price. Below are some links showing Dynex Dux rigging on a Searunner 34 in the Sea of Cortez and Colligo's site. http://s30.p...

mitiempo

I agree with Rachel. If insulation is not used an air space is left between the hull and the ceiling strips or whatever is used to line the visible side. Ceiling strips will usually allow air flow between the strips and spaces can be left at the top for warmer air to escape. The air gap is the separ...

mitiempo

As long as it is "exterior grade", in other words uses water proof glue, not just water resistant. I treat the interior as a place where dampness can be expected. How are you finishing it?

mitiempo

At least exterior grade made with waterproof glues. BS1088 ply is best but pricy. If it is going to be covered with laminate or will not be visibls as for berth tops fir exterior is fine. But if it will be visible I'd use okoume or meranti as they will take a paint finish much better than fir.

mitiempo

Any fuel tank fitting should be metal. If the tank is aluminum you can purchase aluminum elbows barbed or threaded. For stainless tanks I'd use brass.

mitiempo

Hi Stephen I wouldn't use pvc for the reasons mentioned - excess weight and not good at holding fastenings. Kerfed wood is best, held on with thickened epoxy. The glue being used may not be a good long term idea. Even though kerfed the strips will still try to straighten so an adhesive that never gi...

mitiempo

The Epiphanes is a thought. I have always liked their varnish.

mitiempo

Thanks Tim. I think I might try Interlux Premium Yacht enamel and see what the results are like.

mitiempo

Tim
I'm curious what you have against Brightside. I have used it for locker interiors and was planning on using it for some visible items. (depending on your answer maybe)

mitiempo

I had a 2 burner gimbaled kerosene stove on my Westerly 25 in the early 70's. I had a 2 burner alcohol stove on a boat after that. When I bought my 35' boat in the late 80's I removed the 3 burner w/oven kerosene stove and replaced it with propane with no regrets. My next boat had a Force 10 3 burne...

mitiempo

Maine Sail I agree the flanged adaptors make sense all around. Based on a check of prices on Jamestown Dist. site the price is not much different than going with the less expensive Groco flanged seacock - 3/4" for $56 adaptor & ball valve vs $44 for the seacock in one. But at the beginning ...

mitiempo

I'm not dead against Marelon but wouldn't consider them unless the boat was steel or aluminum. While our boats are plastic I think the mechanical parts that move should be stronger. Especially below the waterline. A good quality seacock like the Conbraco if maintained should outlast all of us. Look ...

mitiempo

I agree Rachel. The Conbraco would be my choice, a choice I'll also have to make in a few months. Marelon would not be my choice as I think they're not strong enough (some handles) and I think they tend to try and solve a problem that really doesn't exist amongst good marine bronze seacocks. How man...

mitiempo

Rachel
The specs for the Conbraco I posted say stainless handles, maybe they improved them.

mitiempo

Rachel, you're right, the Conbraco Apollo do look good. I think I would be more comfortable with the bronze balls of the Conbraco rather than the stainless or the brass of the Groco. And the prices aren't bad. A bit more than the cheap Groco but a lot less than the more expensive Groco. This pic and...

mitiempo

There are (or were) water bases epoxies. A friend built a Benford dory using some a while back but I don't know the manufacturer.
Brian

mitiempo

You're right, they are very cheap. Here's a link to Jamestown distributors. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search_subCategory.do?categoryName=Seacocks and Ball Valves&categoryId=164&refine=1&page=GRID On this page they show 2 different type of Groco seacocks. The one in ...

mitiempo

Looks great. You have what I wish I had - a good shop. There used to be a place in Victoria called Tools & Space - they taught woodworking and allowed students to use the shop for an hourly rate. I knew the owner and used his shop many times in the past. But he sold several years ago and retired...

mitiempo

Not true. Planks up to 9'6" in stock @ $30 a board foot. They are currently out of stock on shorts. From Westwind Hardwoods, a major supplier to boatbuilders on the island.

mitiempo

Westwind hardwood in Sidney B.C. shows teak at $30 a board foot on their website but I'm not sure what they have in stock.

mitiempo

I realize this post is getting a bit stale, but I have something to add. When glueing laminate to the counters, or anything else thin for that matter, I always use epoxy. I have owned a boat (Marimba2 in the link I posted above) where the original laminate had lifted from counters and particularly a...

mitiempo

Rachel, I see your point. My method (really Maine sail's) would be best if you have poor access below to drill.
Brian

mitiempo

Ideally you don't overdrill either the top or bottom skin in my opinion. I use a Dremel bit (#654) in a flex drive that fits in a 1/4" hole and rout out the core around the hole without making the holes in the skins any larger than necessary. See this link for details with pictures from Maine s...

mitiempo

Hi You're forgiven for having a powerboat. As far as the hairline cracks, I would do as you suggest and grind them open and fill with thickened epoxy and sand flush as you're going to cover them anyway. I would try and see if the deck core is compromised either by tapping the deck and listening for ...

mitiempo

You don't have to overdrill. Better to drill a 1/4" hole and rout out the core with a dremel. There is more strength if you keep the deck skins as intact as possible. Here's a link with pics step by step. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/seal ... eck&page=1
Brian

mitiempo

James Baldwin redid the counter tops on a Nicholson 31 with corian (as well as much else) and this link takes you to it. Scroll down.
http://atomvoyages.com/projects/Nicholson.htm
Brian

mitiempo

You may be right, but this is how Westwind Hardwoods lists them. Prices are Cdn dollars.
Brian

mitiempo

Here's a link to Pineapple Sails in California. They have several articles on their site that explain reefing quite well - why 2 line is better than single line reefing etc.
http://www.sailmaker.com/articles/index.htm
Brian

mitiempo

Thanks Tim, that makes sense. Currently I am afloat and wasn.t planning to pull the mast this year, but when I do that'll be the plan.
Brian

mitiempo

Tim's set-up looks great. My problem is I have wires coming out of the mast base at three different spots. Previously there was three separate holes in the deck - now filled in. Any ideas?
Brian

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