Hey there,
For building the Atom 6.5 out of divinycell, is it recommended to use the H-80 or the H-130 plain core? There seems to be a pretty big difference in price. I assume the H-80 should be suffice.
Logan
Divinycell
- atomvoyager
- Moderator | Revitalizer of Classics
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- Boat Name: Atom
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Re: Divinycell
Yes H-80 is sufficient. I haven't actually built a dinghy from Divinycell yet but would do that next time to prevent rot, increase flooded buoyancy and hopefully save a little weight. You'll have to work out the construction method and lightest way to use fiberglass to stiffen it up without overdoing it. I'm thinking 3/8" core and a single layer of 9-10 oz cloth for all the panels and then add some extra in any high stress areas. One option is to glass all the panels on a table after you cut them out and then put it together with glass tape. But that may be awkward to and weigh more than stitch and glue the panels together as when using plywood and then add the glass overall. I hope you can post a thread on this project so we can see how it goes. Maybe someone else who has already done this can add their ideas.
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- Master Varnisher
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Re: Divinycell
Yes I will definitely post progress reports on the 6.5 build. I think for the bottom panel I’ll go with 1 layer of 1708 as it will be my daily driver and have to drag it up the beach everyday. I also have a scale big enough to weigh it when it’s done.
I have never worked with divinycell but have worked with a high density closed cell foam for rebuilding my refrigeration box. If the materials are at all alike, I imagine I could stick all of the panels together with toothpicks or my girlfriend’s leftover Polynesian pork skewers. All jokes aside, I think that may be a good solution for constructing the panels prior to fiberglassing.
I have never worked with divinycell but have worked with a high density closed cell foam for rebuilding my refrigeration box. If the materials are at all alike, I imagine I could stick all of the panels together with toothpicks or my girlfriend’s leftover Polynesian pork skewers. All jokes aside, I think that may be a good solution for constructing the panels prior to fiberglassing.
Re: Divinycell
FWIW, when making surfboards (even for the North Shore), lamination schedule on the decks was typically done with 4 or 6 oz, adding a second layer on the 3/4 length foot patch.
Double 4 oz was a competition board, doubled 6 oz was considered heavy duty, everyday boards were 6/4.
This over expanded PU foam which though dense, I don't think was as rigid as is Divinycel.
For most people, this was enough glass to keep dimpling on the deck to a minimum.
I'd think you could go 6 oz or maybe 2x4oz all over, hit the bottom exterior corners and stem with a 4" wide tape of the 1708, and maybe a couple 4" strips underfoot inside. Find a surfboard ding repair kit with UV-activated resin and stick that in the dinghy box for quick emergency repair if you poke a hole in it.
Double 4 oz was a competition board, doubled 6 oz was considered heavy duty, everyday boards were 6/4.
This over expanded PU foam which though dense, I don't think was as rigid as is Divinycel.
For most people, this was enough glass to keep dimpling on the deck to a minimum.
I'd think you could go 6 oz or maybe 2x4oz all over, hit the bottom exterior corners and stem with a 4" wide tape of the 1708, and maybe a couple 4" strips underfoot inside. Find a surfboard ding repair kit with UV-activated resin and stick that in the dinghy box for quick emergency repair if you poke a hole in it.
Kurt and Barque, the CrewDog.
Katie Marie, Ariel #422
Melelani, Islander 36 (shoal)
sailFar.net - Small boats, Long distances...
Katie Marie, Ariel #422
Melelani, Islander 36 (shoal)
sailFar.net - Small boats, Long distances...