Stainless Rigging 302/304 vs 316
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- Topside Painter
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- Boat Type: Alberg 30
Stainless Rigging 302/304 vs 316
I am about to replace my standing rigging i will use sta-lok fittings. is there a need to use 316 for the wire? I understand it is more corrosion resistant than 302/304 but it is also weaker. My Alberg rigging is 41yrs old, hence the replacement, I am assuming they used 304 back then but not too sure so i am asking here, what have you used and what was your reasoning for choosing it. i dont mind spending the money if it is necessary. I am not being cheap or risking safety just trying to spend wisely. Thank you
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Re: Stainless Rigging 302/304 vs 316
You're able to find 302/304? Interesting. I couldn't locally. But in conversations with Rigging Only (where I bought my standing rigging), there are some loss in strength with 316 but not that material overall. Rigging Only only does 316, they won't touch 302/304 these days.
You can use 302/304 if you can find them and it's cheaper than 316. If 316 is cheaper (its more common now), use it. 302/304 does fall apart faster in the tropics.
If you are thinking about beefing up the standing rigging, don't bother - many seemingly skimpy standing riggings has held up just fine in over 40 years. That says alot. Failures that do happen are mainly due to poor maintenance.
You can use 302/304 if you can find them and it's cheaper than 316. If 316 is cheaper (its more common now), use it. 302/304 does fall apart faster in the tropics.
If you are thinking about beefing up the standing rigging, don't bother - many seemingly skimpy standing riggings has held up just fine in over 40 years. That says alot. Failures that do happen are mainly due to poor maintenance.
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- Master of the Arcane
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Re: Stainless Rigging 302/304 vs 316
Our '72 Morgan 27 was rigged with 304, I rerigged (RigRite) with 316. I did not upsize, even though the 316 is something like 20% less strong.
The whole problem of which alloy to use is annoying and unsettling. There's variation in the alloys in various components. There's no particular guarantee that the stuff you get at West Marine and similar is a particular alloy. Even welding shifts the alloy around in the subject metal and the filler will be something else, too. Corrosion will get you sooner or later and only proper use, isolation of dissimilar metals, sealants/lubricants, and vigilance will reduce the getting.
The whole problem of which alloy to use is annoying and unsettling. There's variation in the alloys in various components. There's no particular guarantee that the stuff you get at West Marine and similar is a particular alloy. Even welding shifts the alloy around in the subject metal and the filler will be something else, too. Corrosion will get you sooner or later and only proper use, isolation of dissimilar metals, sealants/lubricants, and vigilance will reduce the getting.
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- Skilled Systems Installer
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Re: Stainless Rigging 302/304 vs 316
There are very few extruders of marine wire left these days. The best stuff comes out of Korea and is most often 316 SS. This is what most good rigging shops are using these days. Loos is now out, or actively getting out, of the wire business and that leaves an open door for suspect Chinese SS. If buying SS wire be SURE of the country of origin, not just where it is braided, but where the individual strands are made. Again, the Korean wire is considered to be the best quality. Because the marine market is now so small, and the demand is for 316 SS, the 304 you find could be a gamble.
When we re-rigged I consulted with the designer and original factory rigger for our boat brand. I simply went up a wire size, even though it was completely necessary to do so. I did it mostly because we had some funky European turnbuckle/toggle/pin size issues that were only available as a match in today's rigging in the next size up...
When we re-rigged I consulted with the designer and original factory rigger for our boat brand. I simply went up a wire size, even though it was completely necessary to do so. I did it mostly because we had some funky European turnbuckle/toggle/pin size issues that were only available as a match in today's rigging in the next size up...
Re: Stainless Rigging 302/304 vs 316
That is interesting about Loos getting out of the marine wire business. I just looked at their website and they still offer marine wire for now. I didn't know that the best wires came from South Korea.
I do think that wire will go away and we'll use high strength lines instead. I'm not totally looking forward to that because high strength lines don't really work well if there is a furling unit on the headstay. They also don't work well with spreaders if continuous. I already plan to go with high tech lines for other types of standing rigging - they're a goodly bit lighter and can be cheaper.
- Case
I do think that wire will go away and we'll use high strength lines instead. I'm not totally looking forward to that because high strength lines don't really work well if there is a furling unit on the headstay. They also don't work well with spreaders if continuous. I already plan to go with high tech lines for other types of standing rigging - they're a goodly bit lighter and can be cheaper.
- Case
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- Topside Painter
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Re: Stainless Rigging 302/304 vs 316
I went ahead and purchased all new rigging from Rigging only. I only ordered the the lower turnbukles and sta-locs, i will order all the upper once i have the mast down and can verify the pins sizes. I put the order in to save myself a few bucks as the prices on all mechanical fitting were gonna go up in the new year....he will honor 2011 pricing when i call back first of the year. I am removing the mast on Monday.
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- Topside Painter
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Re: Stainless Rigging 302/304 vs 316
I restepped my mast today. I replaced all my standing rigging with sta-lok fittings, navtech turnbuckles and 316 wire from Rigging Only. The Sta-lok were a breeze to assemble. I am so glad i went this route. thank you to everyone who help me with info needed to get the job done. While I had mast down I replaced all chainplates, mast tangs and reconditioned the boom and mast. All in all the job cost me about 2300 dollars and took just over 2 months. This amount included all standing rigging(16 sta-lok fitting,8 turnbuckles and 250ft of 316 wire), new 316 stainless bar for all chainplates and mast tangs, new 304/316 hardware for mast and chainplates and all new mast blocks. I was a bit nervous today as it went back up but in the end it all went well. I have and will post pics this week. Thanks everyone
BTW onlinemetals.com was a big big help in supplying the raw material needed to fabricate chainplates, mast tangs, mast base plate and mast base plate for turning block among other things.
BTW onlinemetals.com was a big big help in supplying the raw material needed to fabricate chainplates, mast tangs, mast base plate and mast base plate for turning block among other things.
www.svsalacia.blogspot.com
Preparing to get underway!!
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