![Image](http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h127/triton114/eye1.jpg)
![Image](http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h127/triton114/eye2.jpg)
![Image](http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h127/triton114/eye3.jpg)
Joe
Looks nice, Joe. Do you have enough room to install the port rings? It looks really close.
All the components so far are installed temporarily, with the final placement coming after deck paint (and maybe topside paint). I’m considering leaving 4 of the scarf joints unglued (joined with screws only) so that the rail can be removed in 5 manageable sections for repair or replacement, if necessary.Are they removable for painting the hull, deck and cabin?
How are your cap rail and eyebrow fastened?
This doesn't surprise me at all. The amount of time it takes to fit custom made pieces to compound curves is phenomenal. Of all the details I have to explain to customers, this type is one of the hardest to quantify.jhenson wrote:I’ve probably taken nearly as much time to do the port side eyebrow moldings than I have to cut the same side cap rails.
I am a huge fan of designing components of a boat to come apart. But I don't think I would do this. It is very likely that the seems will open and crack the varnish. Then water will seep in and discolor the wood at the joints and likely start to blow off the varnish. As tedious as it may be, I would likely glue these last several joints simultaneously to the final installation. Or maybe glue these joints in place just before final installation, then lift the entire cap rail in place, apply the bedding, and drop it down and fasten.Any damage in the future to your cap rail will mean cutting out sections anyway, and that is one place the Fein Multimaster shines.jhenson wrote:I’m considering leaving 4 of the scarf joints unglued (joined with screws only) so that the rail can be removed in 5 manageable sections for repair or replacement, if necessary.
This will look great.jhenson wrote:The lack of liner in the early Triton enables the eyebrow moldings to be fastened from inside. I am using #8 5/8” screws for most of the sections.
I don't think it is all that critical. #8s or #10s are fine. The #8 uses a 3/8" countersink and bung, the #10 uses 1/2". Either will seem proportional. I use 6" spacing for the most part for toe rails, but these are sprung. If you use a somewhat adhesive bedding like Sikaflex 291, (I'll spare everyone reading this my solicitations for the product) 8" spacing should be adequate.jhenson wrote:I am not sure of the type, size, and spacing for fasteners on the cap rails yet. I’ve only drilled for screws that adjoin the scarf joints. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Well said, and "AMEN!". Nice work Joe!Hirilondë wrote:Its a long road you travel on your project, but when you make the final installation of your meticulously crafted trim on you shiny freshly painted boat, there will be no words in any language to sum it all up. So just post pictures :)
Thread started: http://www.plasticclassicforum.com/view ... 7170#27170jhenson wrote:Mike,I need to start another thread, I guess, but can you comment on the alterations made on your sliding hatch with what I presume are teak strips glued to the top of the existing surface? Joe